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chris

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Everything posted by chris

  1. Hi folks, its been ages since I posted here last. I want to share an update with y'all about Static Point. Thanks to the hard work started by Mark Hanna, and wrapped up by me, the Online Sector at Static Point is completely rebolted. And at the request of the FA team, Online in particular has been retrobolted to make it a little less R. Don't worry, it's still exciting! Also, a rappel line has been added from Tombstone Ledge to the ground, roughly following the line of Epitaph. So it's possible to climb to the top of the sector and rappel with a single 60m rope. All the beta and topos can be found on my website. I do ask if you copy the topos, please consider making a donation in the sidebar to help me pay for the tools, gas and time I've taken to head out there, almost weekly, this summer. And a special shout out should be made to thank the ASCA and WARP for providing the hardware and the training to get the job done right. I'll be moving on to The Pillar Sector next summer and the trail will always need work. It's a magical place - where battery-powered drills were first used (on lead!) in Washington state. Check it out! LINK to beta and topos: https://bit.ly/36ioSwQ
  2. Hi all, My first beacon in 1998 was a Pieps 457 Opti. Ironically, I'm pretty sure I sold it here on cc.com! I'm hoping someone may have one they're willing to part with, so I can have one to demo in my avalanche classes and have displayed in my office. I'm not concerned with the condition of the case, and while ideally its functioning even that isn't required - I'm pretty sure I now know people who can fix an old analog beacon. I can guarantee it won't be used in any life-saving application, just for demonstration and nostalgia purposes. If you do - feel free to email me directly: chris@simmonsmountain.works for the fastest reply.
  3. Conditions Report: Static Point

    The old growth trail that Gene refers to is the last third, when the trail leaves the old road bed and begins to ascend to the rock. It's time to stop thinking of the old logging road as a road - its not passible by any sort of wheeled conveyance, a single-track trail runs along it, and yes, there are stands of Himalayan blackberry in several spots where conditions are ripe (see what I got in there? ). The last few years we have been hacking them back. If anyone has a battery-powered hedge trimmer, I'd be stoked to borrow it for a few weeks instead of buying one just for this project. Email me at chris@simmonsmountain.works if you can help me out!
  4. Conditions Report: Static Point

    No, its way to overgrown for bikes. Plus, the culverts were also pulled, and the resulting gullies are the crux of the hike!
  5. Conditions Report: Static Point

    The 3/8" bolts were definitely the victim of mixed metals - the bolts weren't stainless steel but the hangers were. This actually accelerates corrosion. I had several actually shear off when I tried to back them out. Because of the amount of rain we get here, WARP issues full stainless to help get the longest life out of our hardware. Only Online was retro'ed, and I would still describe it as a heady-lead. The remainder of the routes were only rebolted, and there's no plans to do further retro work. It's a !@#$-ton of work to go back and forth, and I don't intend to do any more bolting than absolutely necessary!
  6. I have two - unrelated - problems with my feet and I'm looking for a podiatrist and a sports orthopedic who understands our activity. Any referrals for such here in Seattle?
  7. Looking for retired ropes for two separate projects: First, looking for retired ropes that aren't suitable for anything more than dog leashes. They'll actually be donated to a friend who has a farm over on the Kitsap, and having trouble with predator birds going after his chickens. He strings up ropes criss-crossing the area they're roaming in to discourage attacks dives, but doesn't have quit enough rope with what I've given him. Second, I'm looking for ropes that are retired from leading but still good enough for fixed line use. For projects of my own. I live in West Seattle and I'm self-employed, so I'm happy to drive around town to pick anything up. I'll make trips out of the city if someone has a large enough pile too, or we can try to meet up somewhere to do a hand-off if its not too much trouble for the both of us. You can reply below or message me, or email me at chris at simmonsmountain dot works. Thanks!
  8. @JasonG no I hadn't thought of that, but I do know the folks at VW so I might take that chance. Thanks for the idea!
  9. Brand new - still in the box, a pair of standard BD Sabretooth Crampons with the Pro toe and heel bails. Mistakenly ordered, I meant to get the "Clip" version. Thought it might be easier to simply re-sell them than to bother with a return. $84 + shipping. Hand-off in Seattle also possible, or pick-up in West Seattle.
  10. Yes, I think 9kn/2000lbs is adequate for rock and alpine anchors, so I use 6mm as well. I'd buy some off of you, but I got a spool of my own last fall.
  11. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    She died rappelling off of the end of a rope, somewhere on the West Ridge, and her body was found in a 30' deep "crevasse", which was likely a moat or glide crack. Here's the link: LINK
  12. question Clogged MSR Whisperlite International

    After a cannister is empty, I'll leave it on a stove with the valve opened up to a make sure, then puncture it with an ice axe (either in the field or at home). Then I can crush it down with a rock or hammer - when its obviously crushed like this it can be recycled as scrap metal, I was told. There are plenty of old stories from the 1980's of the rubber-sealed cannisters leaking in between uses and second-hand cannisters being sold with water injected instead of gas to bring up their weight.
  13. Found on Tuesday, 23 May. If you can describe the phone, when you lost it and where you think you lost it, then lets get it back to you! Unfortunately I don't have a charging cable for this model and the battery's dead, so I can't just turn it on and try to find anything out. Working on that.
  14. Needs to be in working condition! Willing to discuss price.
  15. In great condition - just didn't fit my feet quite right. You can read all about them here: LINK Retails for $145. Yours for $25. Shipping not included - but we can meet in Seattle to hand off. I have photos to share too.
  16. In like-new condition. Not being used like it should. You can read all about it here: LINK Comes with an Float Cylinder (usually sold separately) - talk to me if you don't want it. Retails for $499.95 + $175 for the cylinder. Yours for $439. Shipping not included - willing to meet in Seattle to hand-off.
  17. In excellent condition - just not getting used like it should. You can read all about it here: LINK This is last year's model - identical to this years except in anodized red. Retails for $69.95, yours for $41. Shipping not included, or we can meet in Seattle to hand-off.
  18. In excellent condition - simply not getting used like it should. You can read all about it here: LINK Retails for $89.95, yours for $48. Shipping not included, willing to meet in Seattle to hand-off.
  19. Aiare 1 vs NSP 1

    The American Avalanche Association is the over-arching organization that has set the standards for avalanche education. Both the AIARE 1 and the NSP 1 meet those standards. If you ski primarily backcountry, take the AIARE course. If you are active in your NSP or spend 50/50 in bounds, then take the NSP course.
  20. FS: iPad 4th Gen, 32gb

    The best on-the-road computer I've had. Wi-fi only (no cell connection). I'm the original owner, kept it in a case, so it's in like-new condition. It comes with the original box, cable and charging plug. Retails online for $229 plus taxes and shipping. Yours for $240, shipping included.
  21. Anyone looking for a dirt cheap smarter-than-me phone? I have a 4s that I replaced last August just sitting here gathering dust. Online, I can find this phone for $60. The Lifeproof Fre case is in excellent condition, is totally waterproof and shockproof, and retails normally for $80. I don't have a current box, headphones, or the Apple charging plug for the iPhone. I do have an extra charging cable and a third party charging plug that works great. I figure the Lifeproof case balances out the missing headphones and the third-party charging plug. Everything can be yours for $70, including shipping.
  22. Worn three full seasons, four continents and 7 countries, these boots still have some miles left. I'm biased, these boots were replaced with another pair of Maestrale RS's. Then I held onto them as a backup pair until I purchased a third pair of - you guessed it - 2016 Maestrale RS's earlier this season. Clearly I like this boot. Perfect for someone who is on a tight budget and trying to get a cheap AT set-up. If you're interested, contact me for photos and we can negotiate a fair price. I'm willing to sell these CHEAP.
  23. Spot vs Inreach vs ???

    ACR and PLB also send a signal to a cubicle - only it's normally someone in a military uniform, who then notifies the local SAR resources. I think there is a real advantage to two-way communication - being able to tell SAR exactly what resources I may need will generate a faster response then a blanket call out for any help. Also, being able to tell everyone that its not an emergency when I'm running late is a benefit too. The latest In Reach also offers a month-to-month plan or a slightly cheaper subscription rate. I've been thinking of using the inReach so that I can adjsut my plan as needed throughout the year. The best tool might be the SPOT/Global Star phone...
  24. Navigation methods and gear

    An altimeter watch is a key piece of equipment. Providing its used correctly. It must be checked and adjusted at known elevation points to remain consistent and relevant.
  25. On ideal dynamic climbing ropes

    It seems to be a mathematical analysis regarding memory-material not currently applied in ropes. I didn't see any mention to diameter or lengths, nor did it consider how the hypothetical rope would handle or even coil up. I wasn't able to find any immediate practical application - anyone else? Its interesting, it seems like we're reaching the practical limit of diameters - any smaller and tube devices are going to be useless.
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