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JoshK

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Everything posted by JoshK

  1. I'm selling my 45l Black Diamond Shadow pack. It's a great pack but I have too damn many packs and I find myself using my slightly larger ski-specific pack most of the time. This pack is great for anything alpine and includes numberous places to attach crampons, tools, etc. It is also quite light at about 3 1/2 lbs. Check out Black Diamond's Web Page for the specifics. The pack is in great condition and features a light reddish stain from a fruit punch gatorade exploding inside of it. It isn't particularly noticeable if you aren't looking at the pack close up. The only small problem is one of the buckles used to chinch down the top pocket can come undone if torqued down too hard. In normal use it holds find and has never been a problem for me. Other than that all buckles, straps, stiching, fabric, etc. is in great condition. The pack normally sells for $169, so I was thinking $80. Feel free to offer me a fair price as well. -josh
  2. I did this with a couple of friends a few weeks back and we decided to take advantage of the broken LeConte to explore some unknown terrain. We dropped down to LeConte Lake (breathtaking), made a brief steep and exposed heather climb to reach nice alpine hiking above to Rimjob...err, RimRock, Ridge, and then accessed the eastern lobe of the glacier. From here we had to climb several hundred feet of bare glacial ice (fun in trail runners!) to get to the lower angle upper glacier and continue on our way. Our original plan had been to continue after the traverse on a long XC route, eventually exiting through the Lyman Lakes. We had only 4 days total though, and the glacier conditions overall cost time so we exited via the standard exit on day 3. It was, far and away, the most broken I had ever seen any of those glaciers. I had done this traverse in 2008, later in the month, and there was way more snow back then. We crossed many sections of slab where it was obvious it had been newly exposed this year after hundreds, or thousands, of years of being covered in ice. Depressing. On the upside, our re-route was the most enjoyable section for me and the varied conditions made the traverse more interesting than the normal trail and snow walk.
  3. Sorry to hear this. Though a great thing about Europe is if you can't climb you can hop on a train (planes are cheap too) and go to an endless number of absolutely amazing places that will make you forget all about climbing. Scenery, culture, history, food and all of that.
  4. Rainier ascent record attempt

    No doubt. How did nobody jump all over this??
  5. Bears and your food around Glacier Peak

    Ditto. Tom, Rad and a few others are speaking from experience, and I share the same conclusions. When camping in the near-treeless alpine (why da fuk camp under treeline on purpose anyway?) you have little other choice anyway. I guess you could carry a portable flag pole... Posting horror stories of Grizzlies in Alaska and using those to generate a hypothetical worst-case for shy black bears in WA wilderness is intellectually lazy. I'm sure those ursacs are great, but I'll stick to not using valuable pack space/weight carrying it. (might be great for critters tho!) You can dance on my grave when I'm killed by a bear sleeping with my unwrapped raw salmon in my tent. As for the OP's question, I spend a lot of time in the GP wilderness and have never had an issue with the bears. YMMV, so don't sue me if you have to flee the scene while a bear ransacks your camp.
  6. Val, this is a great approach to Bonanza, and honestly I think the better one after you've done the Lady of the Lake once (it's worth it once for the experience.) Having been to Holden several times myself now, I'd just do the walk up and over Spider Gap now. I did the Spider Meadow-Buck Creek loop the other day and the trails were all in fantastic shape. As for Lyman->Railroad, I was last there in Spring of '14 and it was in great shape then. If I remember the cutoff to Holden Lake trail is about 15-17 miles from the Phelps Creek TH. A party in reasonable shape that doesn't overpack should be able to cover that faster than the extra driving to Chelan + Boat + bus shenanigans, saving time and money overall. Though the schwack up Railroad Creek makes an awesome story!
  7. Climb: Northern Pickets-The "Savage" Traverse (Whatcom -> Ghost) Date of Climb: 6/30/2004 Trip Report: Let me start by warning you of the ridiculously lengthy trip report you are about to (or not) read. If you don't feel like wading through my mental dribble, feel free to skip to the bottom where I'll give a brief summary. If you want the full version, read on, and hopefully enjoy the story! The long story made long: A month or so ago Wayne approached me with an idea for an extended trip up in to the Northern Pickets. We had chatted before, but had never climbed together. Apparently my reputation for doing stupid shit was enough to convince him that I might be interested in little exploration of this amazing area. We both figured that it's good for new partners to do a "trial" climb together, and what better place to do that then the most remote wilderness in the lower 48? After mouth gaping at the awesome pictures from the southern pickets traverse last year, I was sold. I had never been into the Pickets, north or south, and I was about as excited as a 17 year old with dad's car and a box of condoms on prom night. Early last week the weather reports were calling for a rather extended high pressure system and some scattered clouds. It sounded like it was time to make this thing happen. The plan was to enter the Northern Pickets via the Little Beaver Drainage and start traversing from Whatcom Peak and to get as far as we could, exiting via Access Creek and Big Beaver Trail. We headed in with no beta aside from the map. Leaving Tuesday night we arrived at the Ross Lake Resort parking lot and car camped. I reminisced the days of my mom rocking me to sleep as I drifted off to the sweet lullaby of rednecks in big trucks and retirees in RVs struggling to make it up the grade of SR20. After a leisurely packing session and breakfast we made our way down the trail to the Ross Lake Resort boat dock. Despite my veins surging with enthusiasm, I couldn’t quite shake the thought of exactly how much goat ass walking back up this trail was going to suck. Right on time Brett, the friendly neighborhood boat driver showed up to shuttle us off to the glory, sin, exotic women and designer drugs of the Little Beaver Trailhead. Thirty minutes later we arrived at the boat dock, disappointed to find out that the National Park Service lied and, in fact, there would be no drugs, women, sin or glory. Despite my disappointment we headed off on the Little Beaver Trail. Of course, it wasn’t that simple. The sign pointed towards a general area where we just *might* find the trail but wasn’t kind enough to let us know which one of the thirty winding trails would actually take us up the drainage rather than to another campsite, a shitter, or a bear box. I think it was literally thirty minutes before we finally started heading the correct direction. Yes, the Mounties would be proud of our elite navigation and route finding skills. Seventeen and a half miles laid between us and Whatcom Pass. To pass the time Wayne and I discussed the fact that unlike normal approach distances, seventeen and a half miles was so ridiculous that we couldn’t actually comprehend how far it was. Normally you can think to yourself “ok, six miles, that’s just like doing the Colchuck lake approach and then walking around the lake.” I didn’t quite have anything to compare this approach to, so I simply decided to compare it to something that sucked a lot. Turns out, I was pretty much right on. The Little beaver trail is quite overgrown in places and would make a most excellent place to get mauled by a bear as you are pushing through the easy but head high brush. It’s also a really great place to practice your advanced river crossing techniques, which I believe the 8th edition of “Freedom of the Hills” will cover. If I remember, there were a bunch of your standard stone hops, a nice several hundred foot long boots off, near ball soaking wader and finally, my personal favorite, a several hundred foot BW4 schwack to altogether avoid a giant washout created when the mighty rains of October gave the big “fuck off and get out of here” to the Little Beaver Trail. I was feeling altogether great until the last 500 or 1000 vertical feet of the climb to Whatcom pass. It was at that point when all seventeen and a half miles and the last mile of super steep trail hit me all at once. Low on sugar and water I crashed when I hit the first bivy spot a few feet above the pass. Fifteen minutes later Wayne shows up, scaring the hell out of me since I had managed to fall asleep on the ground already. Apparently he hit the same wall and decided forward progress needed to be halted all of a hundred feet below me. A bivy spot was selected, water was collected, food was eaten and bugs were swatted. It was just another day in the mountains. After a leisurely start we made our way up from the pass towards Whatcom Arm. As I said, it was my first time in the area, and I was blown away. The climb up the north ridge of Whatcom is classic, in my opinion. It starts as a beautiful snow ridge, turning into a steepish snow climb and finishing with a short scramble. It is certainly nothing technical or difficult, but a natural line on a great looking mountain in an amazing place. After summiting Whatcom, we made our way down to the Challenger glacier and roped up for the mega-bake oven crossing. The Challenger Glacier, and Mount Challenger itself again blew me away. The brief (and cool!) 5.7 summit finish found us at the top, with me mouth gaping once more. It was here that we got our first link at the insanity that was about to take place – traversing the alpine ridge of the Luna Creek cirque. The cirque certainly looks big on the map, but I think we were both pretty stunned at just *how* big this place was. Crooked Thumb, the next summit on the agenda looked quite a ways away. Getting off Challenger was the first obstacle and that proved to be troublesome enough. This was where we encountered the nastiest climbing of the trip; a scary traverse over some of the loosest and most exposed ground I have seen. The footing was nothing better than god awful, consisting of shattered small rocks and high angle loose dirt. Hand holds were provided by loose rocks on the right, and to the left was your consolation prize for fucking up: a big ass fall. Hours and hours of traversing, rappelling and more traversing got us to the summit of Crooked Thumb peak. It’s hard to explain just *why* the climbing is so difficult, but we think it centers around the fact that there is nothing that actually resembles easy ground on that ridge. Most of it is certainly non technical, consisting of 3rd, 4th or low 5th class, but it makes you always stay on edge. You can’t screw up anywhere. The second issue is that the ridge is just gendarme after gendarme. It’s much more involved than what you can see from a distance, or even lower in the valley. While some of the gendarmes might only be a few feet, it’s simply the fact that there are so damn many of them. More often than not, the choices for getting down were either extremely exposed down climbing or a rappel. At some point just before the summit of Crooked Thumb we hit our first interesting gear issue; we had no more rap webbing. This wasn’t because we didn’t bring enough either. We just found so much ground that had to be rappelled we were burning through webbing like weed at a Jamaican family reunion. It was at this point that we realized exactly how committed we were. There are virtually *no* bail points from this ridge. It drops steeply off both sides the number of rappels to get off in most locations would make bailing impossible. We figured the first legitimate place we could bail would be the Phantom-Fury Col, and that was a long way off at this point. We certainly weren’t thinking we would bail at this point, but the reality of the situation began to enter our mind. The ground between beyond us, particularly up and over Phantom peak looked very time consuming. Given the rate we had traveled all day, which we both believe was quite respectable, it was reasonable to assume it would take another solid day to get over Phantom. Given the fact that we would have to start bailing off slings, gear, etc. at some point, this prospects looked rather grim. Hours of more of the same climbing finally found us over Ghost peak and a few hundred feet below its summit with fog blowing in and the light fading. Wayne and I were both wasted. A full day of mentally tiring climbing, four summits and not enough water had taken their toll. In addition the weather looked like it could definitely go downhill at any point at which point the situation was going to get a hell of a lot more interesting. We decided it would be in our best interest to bivy before we made a tired mistake, so we got to work clearing a small ledge and making the best site we could given the location. We had no snow, so we would have to go without cooking and split the last 20 ounces or so of water we had. With the thoughts of deteriorating weather, a completely isolated and remote setting and the seriousness of the situation, sleep was not easy to come by. At 5:30 we climbed out of our bags to slightly better weather but the presence of plenty of clouds. We knew the weather was a crapshoot at this point. We could get lucky, or we could get rained on. Getting rained on would mean pushing our situation to a whole new level. Moderate ground would become very time consuming and difficult ground way well become impossible. It was time to bail. Several hundred more feet beneath Ghost peak we reached a very narrow and nasty looking snow gully. It didn’t look like a very reasonable bail out option, but I started to consider it. Wayne was about 50 feet ahead of me leading up the other side of the gully when we commented that it was impassable and we’d have to find another way. I reeled him back in and told him I thought we should consider trying the gully. He wasn’t optimistic it would go and, frankly, neither was I. For some reason, however, I held a glimmer of hope and thought we could make it work. The reality was that I thought the option of going up and over Phantom to the Fury-Phantom Col bailout looked even more improbable given the circumstances. With that we decided to give the gully a go. The gully featured the steepest snow down climbing I have ever experienced. It was narrow, unforgiving and frankly quite nerve racking for me. Our one saving grace was that the gully seemed to experience very little rock fall despite looking like a perfect bowling alley. At the bottom of the first snow finger we encountered a crux to get off the snow and onto a rock ledge which we would rap off. The only way to the rock was by down climbing off the side of the snow finger which was literally overhanging, due to melt out from the surround rock. Thankfully the moves were easily accomplished due to our advanced snow/ice tools: a light axe and a ski pole with the basket removed each. A rappel down the rock step and another long section of snow found us at the top of the glacier. The glacier itself proved to be another obstacle despite the fact that we thought we were now home free. No less than two wondrous bergshrunds separated us from easier ground. We first rapped off the only picket we had then were forced to rap twice down a rock wall to get around the second bergschrund, burning a pin and a stopper. The glacier was a fairly broken mess, requiring some weaving and retracing of its own. Getting off the damn thing and onto the moraine was even more excitement as slabby bedrock, much of it running with water, was interspersed with small sections of talus. The key was connecting the talus sections by traversing across low angle or flat sections of slabby bedrock. I believe Beckey mentions this part of the cirque as possibly “impassable” and it’s pretty damn close. The real nerve racking experience of the trip was finally over. It was only physical pain from here on out. We made the climb to Luna Lake where we enjoyed a few hours of sleeping in the sun, a hot lunch, gear drying and endless amounts of water. Luna Lake was a beautiful oasis as far as I am concerned. After our rest we made the climb to Luna Col, which I actually found quite a bit easier than I expected. I think the ability for me to get my mind “off edge” made things seem a lot better. We ran into a party of seven camped at Luna Col, including Wayne’s friend (Marty, I believe?) and our very own Iain. It was cool to put some faces to names. We of coursed laid the whole sappy story on them, hopefully providing some pre-dinner entertainment. We were both dedicated to running up and down Luna since it’s a selected climb and neither one of us had an desire whatsoever to return to the area for a while to climb it. Thankfully it’s a quick summit from Luna Col, especially without packs. As Marty, Iain and crew prepared to make burritos for dinner we quickly departed to find a camp lower in the valley to enjoy some deluxe freeze dried goodness. We ended up making a bivy on a stunningly beautiful knoll overlooking the lower part of the Access Creek drainage. Luna towered impressively above the valley until the clouds came in and obscured it. We then settled in under the ‘mid for some sleep. I, for one, enjoyed one of the best nights of sleep I have had in a while, a sharp contrast to the night before. We awoke with only one goal for the day: make it to the Big Beaver boat landing before 6pm, when our boat was schedule to arrive to take us back to the land of beer, cars and TVs. Of course, before we could think of that, we had Access Creek to attend to. I’ve had several people describe it as “not that bad” so I’m thinking we screwed it up. It was pretty bad. After the events of the past three days, neither one of us were in the mood to schwak, but schwak we did. The sight of the Big Beaver Creek was a welcome one. Of course, the Northern Pickets just don’t like to make anything easy so a ford of the very fast moving creek was required, followed by another twenty to thirty minutes of schwacking to find the actual trail. The trail was a blessed site, at least for a mile or two, before I began to curse the trail just like the ridge, the snowy gully, the glacier, the moraine and the schwak before it. The damn think went on forever. I received some joy from the amazing trees along the trail but I mostly just wanted to see Ross lake and the boat dock. We finally caught sight of the dock after what seemed like a day of walking. In reality we were hiking quite fast given our tired legs simply for the fact that we wanted out ASAP. Jumping into the lake (falling in my case) finished off the trip and was a welcome reward. The Big Beaver dock is quite a busy place, and we enjoyed telling our tales to the various families and couples that came and went. A kind couple gifted us a couple of welcomed beers. Bless their kind hearts! Right on time our ride back to civilization arrived, complete with the beer and chips care package we had left with Brett three days prior. It was good to be going home. Oh, and yes, the walk up the hill really sucked. In summary, the trip kicked ass. In four days we summated five peaks in the Northern Pickets, two of which I am sure hardly ever get climbed. All five were new summits for me, and all but Challenger were new for Wayne. I can hardly call this a failure. More than anything, however, the experience was worth it. The situation was intense and quite nerve racking at times, but we did what we had to do and we did it well. The Northern Pickets, in my opinion, are just brutally amazing. I have been plenty of remote places in the cascades, and plenty of places where travel is difficult, but nothing like the unexplored parts of the Luna Creek cirque. She doesn’t give you anything easy, and that is just the way it should be. The long story made short: Wayne and I traverse the Northern Pickets from Whatcom Peak to Ghost Peak. We entered on the Little Beaver trail and Whatcom Pass and left through Big Beaver, via Access creek and the Luna creek cirque. We got off the ridge and down to the Luna Cirque glaciers via a steep and nasty snow gully. We climbed Luna peak on the way out. Peaks summited were Whatcome, Challenger, Crooked Thumb, Ghost and Luna. Da' Numbers: 43+ miles 17,500+ feet 5 summits 4 sore legs 2 scratched up bodies and god knows how many rappels. Gear Notes: Small alpine rack, a bunch of webbing, a picket, super light bivy gear. One particularly useful piece of gear was a #2 trango ballnut. I felt that the traverse should be more difficult so I dropped this into oblivion shortly before ghost peak. Approach Notes: *The Little Beaver trail is really fucking long and washed out in a bunch of places. It also is quite overgrown (but passable) in many places. *The Big Beaver trail is also really fucking long, esp. when you are tired. *The guys driving the boats for Ross Lake Resort are awesome. *Beer is a wonderful thing.
  8. Climb: Mount Buckner-North Face Up, North Face Coulior Ski Down Date of Climb: 4/29/2004 Trip Report: I figured i would jot this up while I am anxiously waiting for my pictures to download. Sky (skikilo) and I climbed the north face of buckner today and skied the north face coulior. This was the follow-up trip to a failure last thursday where we made it to within 600vf of the summit climbing the coulior and turned around due to high avalanche hazard. We were able to ski the majority of the coulior that trip, but we wanted to come back and nail it right. We left the car right around midnight and approached via cascade pass/salahe arm. I am now of the opinion that this is the best approach for the upper boston basin area when things are snow covered. The skin to cascade pass and up the arm is super easy and it is quite easy to contour around into boston basin. By the time we had reached the 8500 foot notch leading to the Boston glacier the sun had just started to shine. It was probably around 6am. A surprisingly not-that-bad ski down the boston glacier found us at the base of the north face not too much later. You are probably wondering why we chose to go up the NF instead of the NFC, eh? The schrund on the NFC straight up sucks. It runs side to side and we passed it last time on a very sketchy bridge that collapsed when I followed Sky across and had to scramble up the other side with him pulling hard on the rope. Not wanting to deal with that crap, we figured going up the face would be easier. We reached the summit sometime around 10am and realized we would have to wait a while for things to soften up. We took a nap until 12:30 and then started to work our way down the coulior. The top of the coulior (which is actually just the north face), is quite steep. Sky could probably estimate better than I, but it's steeper than the standard north face proper. This continues for probably 500vf and then you begin to neck down into the coulior proper. The coulior gets quite thin (maybe 40ft?) for a hundred feet or so then begins to slowly open up. Starting at the constriction we started to find fairly good snow...chunky powder. The ski down from that point was great, with a little bit of shitty ice here and there to keep things *very* interesting. Beneath the shrund (which can easily be shot across on skis) we found picture perfect powder for the last few hundred feet down to the flat part of the glacier. Too bad we didn't have that on the whole mountain. The skin back up to the 8500 foot notch went quickly and soon we were skiing down the quien sabe and the sahale arm, which was fast and fun with perfect corn. 18 hours and a little bit of driving later we were chowing down at Good Food in marble mountain Gear Notes: Skis, skins,2 whippets, crampons. Needed all this. Approach Notes: Road gated at MP21. Snow starts at MP22.5. Skin up to cascade pass and up arm very easy.
  9. That's nice...a picture of the situation several weeks later. :-) You may think me a dick, but as I said, drawing the ire of a federal agency ain't my idea of fun. Disregard their sign and then leave a car (licensed under my name) back there for several days? Nah, not something that would pass my risk/reward evaluation. And as I said, I wasn't the only one. It seems pretty implausible multiple people would take that risk. Anyway, it's Friday night and the ladyfriend is soon arriving. I look forward to resuming this incredibly useful conversation next week!
  10. Ha, I had forgotten all about that little adventure. Great memories indeed!! Sadly FW, you are wrong, and there was no posting whatsoever about "no vehicle access." Did they post something in the several weeks between when I was there and you were? Sounds likely they did. Was it in response to to what I did? Possibly, and I could care less either way. No harm, no foul. Since you brought it up...when I was there, there was only a jersey barrier across the old road bed itself, with a small "road" going around the side, which looked to be there to facilitate repairs further up the road. There was no sign saying not to go around whatsoever. Sorry, but I'm not dumb enough to blatantly ignore a sign posted by a federal agency and risk a major fisting by the man. I'll also add that I was not the only car back there when I parked. Your recollection on the ciggy butts is wrong too, unfortunately. Ivan may be a miscreant in other ways, but I can vouch for him not littering. He was carrying a ziploc bag of butts, growing constantly larger and smellier throughout the trip. In any event, I'm not sure how access issues in one national park got dragged to another national park, and then on to a road on FS land. FWIW, I supported the re-opening of the Suiattle River road. A long-since abandoned section of the Stehikin road in the middle of NCNP is an entirely different matter. As for the original topic, MRNP, I could care less, I never go there.
  11. Wait wait, your bitch about the NCNP "locking" people out is that the road is no longer usable up to Cottonwood camp? Why the fuck would anybody who purports to enjoy the outdoors want an old road regraded underneath Park Creek Ridge?? That is literally the heart of NCNP. Should they reactivate that plan to force the road over Cascade Pass too? Jesus man, the access is great and you can get to some amazing terrain, largely undisturbed. You make it seem like armed guards are keeping you of the park.
  12. I know, NCNP should get off their asses and put up a restaurant and tram already!! Why must one of the last remote areas in the lower-48 stay that way?? Europe has already proven you can place humanity on every square inch of the alpine, so let's get our act together. Seriously though, I'm actually curious wtf you are talking about? I spend nearly all of my outdoor time up in the N Cascades, a large % of that in the NCNP. I have never been locked out of anything, nor unable to do what I wanted to do. If we are talking about washed out roads or something...well, that's what mountain bikes and not being lazy are for. Or is there something else in particular I'm not aware of?
  13. http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/ted-the-caver
  14. I discovered a substantial winter cache at one of WA state's historic fire lookouts recently. If it's your cache, I'd greatly appreciate getting a hold of me via private message. I do some care-taking and maintenance at the lookout in question, and am certainly not looking to scold or anything of that sort. I am asking out of curiosity and the possibility that you could do me a very small favor when you return for it. I'm not sure when it was left, but FWIW, it's in good shape. Again, I'd greatly appreciate a private reply if you see this! thanks! -josh
  15. I was in this area early in the summer (during that awkward few weeks between summer climbing and spring skiing) and did scramble peaks. I knew there was a ton of larch and returning in fall would be worthwhile, but I am now 100% committed to do so. Incredibly beautiful, and your pictures are fantastic!!
  16. New Book Finally Published!

    The book is really well done. I just submitted a review on Amazon. The price is definitely not too high; that is a ton of material for a very reasonable price.
  17. Transitioning from rock to alpine: Where?

    As an aside when looking in to avalanche safety issues, keep in mind how much this differs in region. A good class should teach you about these differences of course. As you allude to, gaining "mountain sense" for the particular area you want to spend time in is absolutely crucial. The only way to learn this is experience and travelling with people who know their shit. It's far more important than classroom avy classes and knowing how to classify a snowpack as Q1c347T45 or whatever. I'll always trust somebody with decades of experience in the mountains and no formal training over somebody who has taken some classes and has only been serious in the backcountry for a couple of years. It all comes down to decision making, and that is only formed from experience, and lots of it. I've lived in both Washington and Colorado and the difference between a maritime and continental snowpack is huge. Similarly large differences exist within these meta-types as well. If you are able to, seek out some friendly, knowledgeable locals to head out with and ask them to verbalize signs they are looking at and what is going in to their decision making. As for the glacier travel, as others have said, this is a far more simple affair than avalanche safety. If you know your knots and some basic rescue techniques that should get you most of the way. You can go find an easy to access area to practice these techniques safely and probably have the skills you need at that point.
  18. Cell Phone GPS navigation on volcano?

    BackCountry Navigator PRO is an AWESOME app. I absolutely love it. The guy who wrote it (lives in S WA I believe) did an absolutely fantastic job. Since I downloaded the app I have no longer taken my piece of shit Garmin GPS anywhere. The phone's screen is a billion times better, the maps available are million times better and I no longer have to carry one device for GPS and another for music/reading, etc. Better yet, you can download a huge variety of maps from various services, generally for free, which are far better than the garbage maps Garmin will sell you for a lot of $$. The app is easy to use and allows you to select ares to mark for download (either in to main cache, or map packages you name) to your device memory or SD card. You can then create seperate trip databases, under which you can store your routes and waypoints. You can change colors of routes, name them, track stats, etc. Essentially everything useful the Garmin did, but better. The only thing I miss from my Garmin is the sun & moon charts, which I'm sure I could find in another app. If you do plan on using the phone for GPS navigation, it's important to recognize the limitations of the device you are using. I have a Samsung Galaxy 5 which I have found to be the perfect BC phone. Why? 1. It's water-sealed 2. It offers swappable batteries (I bought two spares) 3. The battery life, even without using a spare, is farbetter than an iPhone 4. It allows you to insert an SD card (64gb card for half the price Apple rapes you to upgrade from 8 to 16gb) I don't know much about your specific android device, but you should have some of the above benefits and you can get BC Nav Pro. So, in summary, I'd have to disagree completely with the assertions that a Garmin device is a better option to an Android phone. Carrying two devices when one does the same job, and better, makes no sense to me. Then again, if I had an iPhone, I'd probably be stuck with the Garmin as well.
  19. Ask Ivan about my experience (totally self-inflicted) with NF Bridge Creek. It can get much worse (and expensive) than falling in... Yes, the joys of the internet era. Hence the reason I have given up going anywhere popular on the weekend, or writing TRs. (Climbing nothing of interest to anybody helps too. ) It has its positives too though, so I digress. Nice job on the climb, this is one of my favorites: fun and such beauty in that area!
  20. [TR] Mt Stuart - Direct North Ridge 7/26/2014

    That's what happens when you do trade routes and i don't think either one are assholes, i think we all take turns being the ass of the party, that's part of life ^Exactly. It's a trade route, in prime climbing season, ON THE WEEKEND. Expecting anything else is stupidity. Re-arrange your schedule and climb on weekdays if you want a relatively newb-free experience on a trade route. Or man up and do it in mid-September. It's akin to being given the choice between driving somewhere across the city at 1pm or 5pm, choosing 5pm, then bitching when you are stuck in traffic. Sure, it may feel good to vent, but it's still your own fault.
  21. This is turning in to the CC.com version of the guy who 'likes' his own posts on Facebook.
  22. Fuck Canada, or at least their border patrol. I have also completed a "backup climb" due to similar harassment from a douchebag. In fairness, the US border patrol were just as big of assholes to us when we got 180ed. Hellavu backup you did though, what an area!
  23. New Book Finally Published!

    Mine should be arriving on Thursday. I expect to be climbing 5.15 by the end of August. I will report back with results. Grats Mike, I'm looking forward to checking it out!
  24. Car Question

    Is this why we always take my car then? ;-) And to be fair, your Pubaru wasn't exactly the best representation of the brand. Lot's of good suggestions here. Certainly increased ground clearance is nice, but not necessary. As for 2WD vs AWD: somebody validly pointed out it has as much to do with tires and driver, which is certainly true. But an AWD with snow tires is going to be more pleasant to drive in the snow than 2WD. It also gets you past the chain requirement on particularly bad condition days. Personally, I prefer more cargo space (e.g. a wagon, or truck) so I don't have to play Tetris to fit everything in the car. I also like the ability to sleep in the back if I want. The Jetta TDI is a really good suggestion; those are awesome cars that get great mileage. I think they may finally be importing the AWD TDI version to the states, but I'm not certain on that. Overall, optimize for the 98% case like others are saying.
  25. [TR] Mt Stuart - Direct North Ridge 7/26/2014

    "Haters gonna hate"...LOL. It's not hating when people are rightfully calling out the OP for being insulting and condescending for no reason. There are plenty of folks on this board capable of climbing that route just as fast while also including some nice pics, useful beta, good writing and an absence of douchebaggery. If the vision you are aspiring to is writing bad TRs on CC.com and portraying a lack of innerweb social skills (ok, an oxymoron i'll admit), good luck with that. In any event, while the TR may only get a D+ at best, I'd say given the number of replies so far on a commonly done route, it's probably a solid B to B+ trolling effort. But hey, if nothing else, thanks for the reminder that when I repeat this route I will go on a weekday.
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