John Frieh Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Trip: Valdez, AK - Classics Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report Summary: 2/24: PDX -> ANC -> Valdez, AK. Climbed Hung Jury (1p; 55 meters) and Fang Gully (group solo; 90 meters) 2/25: Bridalveil Falls (4p; 185 meters) + Simple Twist of Fate (2p; 75 meters) 2/26: Keystone Greensteps (4p; 200 meters) 2/27: Valdez, AK -> ANC -> PDX First and foremost many many thanks to Mackenzie and Eric for their gracious hospitality. Also thanks to wfinley and Jake_Gano for taking the time to answer all my dumb AK beta questions I can't find the words to convey how rad Valdez, AK is. Consider this: - 200 meter routes 3 minutes from the car - we started climbing no earlier than 8:30 am each day and not once got scooped by another party. - in fact we only saw 5 other ice climbers the entire trip. FIVE. - the routes we climbed (which are 3 minutes from the car) receive so little traffic not one was picked out. We even had to make v threads to get off (if that tells you how rarely these get climbed). - it never dropped below 10 degrees during the day the entire weekend. But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Seriously though: make it a point to climb ice in Valdez, AK at least once in your lifetime. Let me know if you need a partner. Get motivated: Alasak Ice Climbing Enough prose... some pictures: Day 1: Hung Jury and Fang Gully. Photo taken from the car. Crazy wind shaped ice formations on Hung Jury Scoops, Umbrellas, and Bells the size of cars Skander on Fang Gully Day 2: Bridalveil Falls and Simple Twist of Fate. Photo taken from the car. Following pitch 1 Following pitch 2 Marcus leading pitch 3 the "Killer Pillar" Pitch 2 of Simple Twist of Fate Day 2: Keystone Greensteps. Photo taken from the car. Marcus tackling a very technical pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 4: Now you see me, now you don't Gear Notes: clown car Approach Notes: Alaska Air Quote
John Frieh Posted March 3, 2011 Author Posted March 3, 2011 glad to see the helmet made it I needed it for the sketchy driving! Quote
genepires Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 very nice. is that mr Marcus Donaldson with you? Quote
YocumRidge Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for the stoke ! That looks like a Wicked Wanda . Very cool! But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Nice to see you survived the 3 min approaches with your helmet on Quote
John Frieh Posted March 4, 2011 Author Posted March 4, 2011 Thanks all. @Schmitz & Mark: got some beta from a local on BIG rigs that come in every October. Pencil it in dudes @Gene: you know it! @Anastasia: nice work in CAN. You're representing the PDX ice climbing contingent quite well this winter Quote
yikes Posted March 4, 2011 Posted March 4, 2011 Sweet, those approach times remind me of Nipigon. Only we'd be talking ft rather than m. Quote
treknclime Posted March 6, 2011 Posted March 6, 2011 Schweet, JP...way to get out there 'again!' on a cool trip. Well done, all! Thanks for sharing! Quote
Jake_Gano Posted March 6, 2011 Posted March 6, 2011 Awesome TR John. We'll have to get together next time you're up here. Quote
MJaso Posted March 7, 2011 Posted March 7, 2011 Awesome John. Keep up with the training for Mt. Dickey. I look forward to that TR Quote
wfinley Posted March 7, 2011 Posted March 7, 2011 Awesome! You were there the right week. This is what Valdez looked like a week ago; 95mph winds in town - 100mph gusts up on the pass! [video:youtube] Quote
Khartoum Wood Posted March 12, 2011 Posted March 12, 2011 Got to love Valdez AK ice nice wish I was there now. Quote
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