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Jake_Gano

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Everything posted by Jake_Gano

  1. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    Cobra's retail price has drifted up to $400+ per tool. For that price you can nearly buy a pair of Tech Machines or North Machines. Cobras were pretty sweet when they came out 10 years ago or so but I would not buy them again today.
  2. Anyone tried to mate up a big "heat exchanger" type pot with an XGK or other white gas stove? How did it go? Did you save fuel? Considering this for trips with lots of water melting.
  3. This place is like Monte Cristo

    Even in a world with Facebook and Instagram, mtnproject and (to a lesser extent) supertopo still have active forums. Albeit with pretty low quality content. I'm not sure why so many users jumped ship from CC.com, but I'm sure that there's more to in than the rise of social media.
  4. At that price you won't find much if any round trip options. But, as Gene said, there are fly-in hike-out (or ski-out) options. People fly in to the south end of the Eklutna Traverse and ski out to the north (although that is usually earlier in the year). Other options include the Scandinavian Peaks/Mat Glacier or, if the weather cooperates, peaks in the Knik Area.
  5. Alpinist Magazine Buyer

    I'd buy 0, 2, 3, and 10 off you if the price is reasonable.
  6. Valdez ice climbing festival 2/17/2017

    You will have fun. It's a great chance to hang on some pitches steeper than you can lead to work technique. Dress warm and pack whiskey - there is a lot of standing around waiting your turn to climb.
  7. Sorry for a troll-ey non-answer to your questions, but instead of spending time and energy and money on a sleeping bag, you'd be better spending it dialing in better clothing systems. Also - I assume you live in the northwest - manage your expectations. "Damp" is dry enough and "not hypothermic" is warm enough. Smile. Warm and dry is for Californians. How are you getting so wet that you can wring water from a pile jacket? If it's warm enough to be raining and you're don't need much beneath your shell. Speaking of shells - are you wearing a modern Goretex or eVent or similar hardshell? Other types of shells have their time and place, which are times and places where it's not raining in the mountains. Shit's expensive but there is a reason everyone carries one. Don't overthink it. Are you popping a synthetic poofy coat over your base layers as soon as you are out of the rain? If not, the sleeping bag you are looking for might actually be a jacket.
  8. I'm looking for something to cover my skin while crossing snowfields in warm to hot conditions to protect from sunburn but not for insulation. Patagonia used to make one but it's no longer available. Looking for light fabric, light color, hood, cut for climbing. Basically a white Capaline 1 with a hood. I have other hoodies (R1, merino, stretch synthetic, etc.) but they are warmer than what I am looking for.
  9. Silvretta 500 Easy Go backcountry bindings $75

    What's your email?
  10. Here are a few of my pics. I've climbed a lot in the cascades and this was by far the hottest trip I've taken there. For Shuksan we carried a light rock rack for the summit gully, and used it for 3 pitches of steep (45-70? deg) snow. The climbing was pretty easy but the snow conditions sucked. We talked to two parties that had failed to summit the day before. OTOH, in good conditions you may or may not need to rope up for the summit gully. For the NR of Baker, we belayed ~100meters of ice in 3 pitches. You could string some of it together and probably do it in two pitches but that would mean carrying more screws. Billy (wfinley) coming up the first pitch: Billy following the third pitch, steep and roudy. Approaching the ice cap. Even with trashed bodies and a light hangover we were able to drag ourselves up R&D in the morning before our flight out.
  11. Cord-o-lette/quad anchors

    Because a double length runner isn't long enough. A triple or quad length sling works just fine too. Well, you can do that, but you won't achieve redundancy in the materials. I wasn't considering using the quad for more than two point anchors, but now that it has been pointed out I can see where the longer cordellette material would have an advantage. As for the lack of redundancy in the materials, wouldn't that also be the case with a "sliding X" anchor? Are there still many people using a "sliding X"? It is pretty spooky betting the farm on one strand of 10mm spectra, but like you said " Anchors aren't failing due to the choice in materials in real world applications"... Have these type of anchors largely fallen out of favor?
  12. Cord-o-lette/quad anchors

    So then why do you need a cordellette to build a quad? Couldn't you take a tied, 48-inch runner, tie an overhand knot on each end of the runner, clip each knotted bight to a bolt, then clip yourself into one strand and belay off the other? (If that isn't clear let me know and I'll draw a pic). I have been using the "quad" on ice anchors lately and I like it.
  13. (Preface: Nothing stokes my already ample cynicism like surfing internet climbing media, which I've been doing way too much of lately.) It seems like every blog post I've seen for Alaskan trips has ended with the writer thanking the trip sponsors. These are not trips to exotic, expensive, and logistically complex trips. I pay retail for all my climbing gear, and it chaps my ass to see companies charge me way too much for their gear, only to turn around and give it way to other climbers. To be fair, I'm ok with guides and a hand full of top climbers to get free gear. These guys log enough time to wear out get, provide feedback, and develop better products. But if you're just an ok or above-average climber, then you should show a little pride and not ask that others (i.e. me) to subsidize your trip. The companies that make gear tighten down their belts, tell most of these guys to fuck off, and pass the savings back to me.
  14. Food on the Ruth Glacier

    Propane is strictly prohibited on all passenger aircraft. Dot rules, or maybe IATA, but not TAT policy. None of the carriers should allow you to take it on. That said, I know a guy who knows a guy, if you catch my drift, who enjoyed fresher grilled brauts over a propane Coleman stove in the range a few years ago. That said, the same guy would probably bring a white gas Coleman stove next time and stay legal.
  15. I don't want to pay for your climbing trip

    I would love to know how much money goes into advertising and pro deals for a Chinese-made Patagonia down jacket vs. a comparably- priced, premium quality, American-made Western Mountainering jacket Or an Osprey vs. CCW or Cilogear pack.
  16. I don't want to pay for your climbing trip

    Redbull sponsors accomplished climbers like Will Gadd. Now that I've cooled down a bit, let me try to articulate what I was trying to say in the original post in a way that is less incisive. I think that the act of self promotion, building a "brand of me," through social media is tacky and lacks humility, especially if it's not backed up by real accomplishment. Gear companies condone this self promotion by giving gear deals to climbers, and if I buy their products then I am indirectly condoning this as well. OTOH there are plenty of climbers who crank on their own dime, without self promotion, and these guys are admirable. (I doubt Fred Beckey ever had to create a cult-of-personality on social media). I'm not being stingy when I say that I wish companies wouldn't be so loose with the money I spend on their products; I just don't like the idea of spending my on tacky self-promotion.
  17. I don't want to pay for your climbing trip

    I see people hashtaging gear companies on Facebook/Instagram, and I know ya'll ain't getting paid. Why advertise for someone for free?
  18. Petzl harness b*tchfest

    I went to replace my well used Petzl Adjama harness with a new one, and I was pretty pissed to see that in the last 6 or 7 years Petzl managed to take a really nice harness and redesign it to be a pile of junk. The new harness feels like it's padded with cardboard, and the gear loops feel flimsy, and who wants rock a butt-fuck purple harness. (The old harness before they redesigned it was much nice). I suspect they want to push people towards their high-end high price new models but they shouldn't do it by making there mid-price harnesses deliberately crappier. Lame Also, I know inflation is a raging bitch, but since when did every decent harness cost over $100? It wasn't to long ago that those prices were limited to highly specialized big wall harness or those willing to pay the dead bird premium.
  19. Petzl harness b*tchfest

    I bought a Petzl Hirundos last year so I would have a second harness for ice/alpine. That way I don't have to look like some kinda tool rolling into the gym with ice clippers and tethers still attached to me. It's a great harness for that purpose, but I need a little more beef for cragging/gym climbing. I'll probably end up just buying an Aquila and bitching about the price.
  20. Breathable insulation?

    Dan, I think you'll find that these new insulated garments are much warmer than a Driclime. I run all the time when it's really cold out in a Driclime. I'd roast doing the same thing in my Alpha insulated jacket.
  21. Denali pricing

    If the Denali vicinity and/or the Ruth are getting too urbane try going to the vast majority of the Alaska Range (located outside of the National Park) or Wrangell Saint Elias/Kluane.
  22. Grivel North Machine Carbon?

    FYI - a carbon version of the Tech Machine is supposed to be available ~ February. Looks hyper sexy.
  23. Breathable insulation?

    You nailed it. I have a Polartec Alpha insulated jacket from Rab called the Strata Flex that looks to be a pretty close to the Patagonia's nano-air. It's nice...but nothing earth shattering. For various reasons (beyond the insulation) I find myself sticking to a micro fleece with a conditions-appropriate shell for climbing. The Strata mostly just gets used for bike commuting on cool mornings, hiking, etc. I wouldn't buy it again.
  24. Grivel Parts

    Liberty Mountain?
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