John Frieh Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Trip: Valdez, AK - Classics Date: 2/3/2011 Trip Report Summary: 2/24: PDX -> ANC -> Valdez, AK. Climbed Hung Jury (1p; 55 meters) and Fang Gully (group solo; 90 meters) 2/25: Bridalveil Falls (4p; 185 meters) + Simple Twist of Fate (2p; 75 meters) 2/26: Keystone Greensteps (4p; 200 meters) 2/27: Valdez, AK -> ANC -> PDX First and foremost many many thanks to Mackenzie and Eric for their gracious hospitality. Also thanks to wfinley and Jake_Gano for taking the time to answer all my dumb AK beta questions I can't find the words to convey how rad Valdez, AK is. Consider this: - 200 meter routes 3 minutes from the car - we started climbing no earlier than 8:30 am each day and not once got scooped by another party. - in fact we only saw 5 other ice climbers the entire trip. FIVE. - the routes we climbed (which are 3 minutes from the car) receive so little traffic not one was picked out. We even had to make v threads to get off (if that tells you how rarely these get climbed). - it never dropped below 10 degrees during the day the entire weekend. But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Seriously though: make it a point to climb ice in Valdez, AK at least once in your lifetime. Let me know if you need a partner. Get motivated: Alasak Ice Climbing Enough prose... some pictures: Day 1: Hung Jury and Fang Gully. Photo taken from the car. Crazy wind shaped ice formations on Hung Jury Scoops, Umbrellas, and Bells the size of cars Skander on Fang Gully Day 2: Bridalveil Falls and Simple Twist of Fate. Photo taken from the car. Following pitch 1 Following pitch 2 Marcus leading pitch 3 the "Killer Pillar" Pitch 2 of Simple Twist of Fate Day 2: Keystone Greensteps. Photo taken from the car. Marcus tackling a very technical pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 4: Now you see me, now you don't Gear Notes: clown car Approach Notes: Alaska Air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 glad to see the helmet made it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 glad to see the helmet made it I needed it for the sketchy driving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vert Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Awesome! Looking forward to that area! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 very nice. is that mr Marcus Donaldson with you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Thanks for the stoke ! That looks like a Wicked Wanda . Very cool! But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year. Nice to see you survived the 3 min approaches with your helmet on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 *like* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Thanks all. @Schmitz & Mark: got some beta from a local on BIG rigs that come in every October. Pencil it in dudes @Gene: you know it! @Anastasia: nice work in CAN. You're representing the PDX ice climbing contingent quite well this winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yikes Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Sweet, those approach times remind me of Nipigon. Only we'd be talking ft rather than m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Wow. Awesome. Thanks for sharing the stoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwired Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Nice pics- and blue sky. damn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Schweet, JP...way to get out there 'again!' on a cool trip. Well done, all! Thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Just stellar, I love the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Gano Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Awesome TR John. We'll have to get together next time you're up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 You do get around. Indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJaso Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Awesome John. Keep up with the training for Mt. Dickey. I look forward to that TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Awesome! You were there the right week. This is what Valdez looked like a week ago; 95mph winds in town - 100mph gusts up on the pass! [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Got to love Valdez AK ice nice wish I was there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 nice report! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Me like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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