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vert

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Everything posted by vert

  1. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    You can xc ski up any of these drainages. Distances have been lengthened due to recent and forthcoming snow falls. Perhaps the best option would be the strawberry falls down in Grant county. Here you could drive towards the strawberry campground and still perhaps make it to the gate low on the road. From there it is a few miles to the trail and then another few miles to the falls which has half dozen safe and interesting routes to choose from; none of which exceed 30 meters.
  2. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Did you get to climb? From the upper county road sign (public lands boundary) it is 1.5 boot to the pine creek headwall above the reservoir. 2.5 will get you to the east facing rock creek buttes north ridge which has many good steeper lines in right now. Also for those who are interested, rock creek drainage is in good shape. The road is more reasonable and the climbing is in. Take the rock creek lake trail (road 250) and follow the boot tracks into the upper drainage for the alpine bucket lake routes- 3 hours- or head up to the obvious pillar route above the trail where you will find nicotine free 4+, roll over immediately left M7 traditional and tobacco gully further right, a long aesthetic 3 in a corner all of which should deliver a good day with varied climbing. If you go do not attempt to drive down road 250, park at a wide spot a little further down and walk that part, 5 mins to the trail proper. Once it starts hammering snow these will be out for a while. Good hunting and perhaps I will see you in there! Mark-
  3. Elkhorn Mountains Ice Climbing

    Hey Fellas, The roads to get to these ice venues are very tricky 4x4 only jeep trails. If you decide to come out here and visit keep in mind that you will need a sturdy 4x4 with high clearance, chains for all four, skills in driving off-road style steep rocky tracks and tools to get yourself unstuck if you fall short. Living here and climbing in those mountains for decades has given me the opportunities when conditions are good to choose a mode of transportation that works. Later in the season we will switch to snow mobiles but those too are tricky to operate in that terrain and there are MAJOR slide paths that have to be negotiated. At one point the pine creek road crux is just below a restriction near the base of a 2200 foot slide path and this is where you will end up stuck and digging nervously as there is no escaping if it slides. The routes can be fun, almost always form but if I did not live here, I would go to Canada as the climbing isn't really that worthy for the effort; short. Hope this helps! Mark Hauter-
  4. PNW ice in an el Nino winter

    Here are a few potential climbing options at relatively high elevation over in northeastern Oregon. If these come together this coming season I will post conditions for those interested.
  5. PNW ice in an el Nino winter

    Let me know when or if that comes together for the approach, im willing to help out with that. I don't get on here too much so text would be best- 541-701-7860. Mark Hauter-
  6. Dave Jensen has established some of the toughest routes in the state and was an incredibly bold climber. Perhaps the names should reflect that talent...just saying- Good work on your new routes-
  7. Banks Lake Ice Report

    Thanks for the update!
  8. Bouldering along Oregon coast?

    Look along the shores near Bandon.
  9. Hell

    It is possible during December if you have a solid high pressure system in place. Check the weather. If the sun is out you can climb and the south face of the flat iron is a great winter crag. Climbs tend to be easier on the right side of the face. While there are a few committing routes on the cliff, most are VERY well protected, almost confusingly so. Long runners and bolt skipping are fun though and the rock is most enjoyable. Good camping at Allison creek; hike up the trail and find a tight left path just before the third creek crossing. When you are ready to head to Ouray, you can then escape east by following the road signs to Cambridge and hwy 95 then back out to 84 in southern Idaho. A bundle or two of wood will make the long nights pass in comfort. It is a beautiful location. Have a fun journey-
  10. Hello eastern Washington climbers, I am also new to this area and am also looking for people to climb with. Been living here for work but am very familiar with the climbing in north eastern Oregon and find myself returning there often for it. With all the info floating around on this site I would definitely be interested in checking out ice soon in this state as well; especially around the coulees if it freezes. For those in the know around here, is there a crag closer than 60 miles away on accessible lands? I would love to find a scrappy cave for dry tooling; also does anyone have a climbing wall (for fingers and feet) they are willing to share in town? Do you like beer? I can also return the favor with uncrowded climbing trips to the east on ice, mixed and rock. Give me a shout here and much appreciated!! Mark Hauter-
  11. Hell

    See you there!!!
  12. Oregon Ice

    Being an ice climber and living in the Northwest can be brutal; it can leave you wondering about wandering. Following are some images from an Oregon ice climb that I hope provides some inspiration. Enjoy. The Afterimage in the Strawberry Range. First pitch December 2009. The crux looms above. Last pro for twenty feet or so. Delicate moves on loose rock to reach the ice on pitch two. Good ice on pitch three. Top anchors have some history, these trees are sturdy! I have known Steve for a long time, we do not climb together much but when we do it is always a good outing. Rapping from the top. My favorite shot! This exemplifies the steep terrain of this route. It is not always in this rough of shape. Depending on the year, it can be a solid pure ice route. It is however always a serious outing, lots of avalanche terrain surrounding this climb. To approach, go to Prairie City and head south towards the mountains and Strawberry Lake. From the trail head it is another 3.5 miles and couple of thousand feet gain. The route is around 8000'.
  13. Ice Boot Heel Lift

    Cut an old pair of foot beds off ahead of the heel and barge cement them under the foot beds your using now. I had the same issues and this cured the problem.
  14. Hell

    Another great weekend of climbing! Two more new routes sent and two more projects in the wings. The high west side of the flat iron continues to yield good lines! We shared the place with four other climbers this weekend; amazing considering the amount of established climbing! Two folks from Montana could not believe two face was 21 years old with no signs of traffic. Maybe this place really does suck?? Yes I think it really does! Who likes rotten flakes, crappy friction and sloping holds?
  15. Hell

    Managed to make it down weekend before last. Outstanding weather yielded three new routes on the west side of the flat iron. Kevin established two bolted beauties up on fat broad ledge. His 11b done there is superb!! I led a 10 mostly traditional with the exception of three bolts to start. Good climb with lots of stemming. I am going back this weekend of 28-31 and planning on firing another new line or two unless its vacant, in which case i will travel further east to Borah. The weather looks ok throughout, but even so the limestone dries so fast only a torrential down pour puts it off. Hauter-
  16. Kennewick

    Hey all, I am new to Kennewick and am looking for partners in the area. I have local knowledge of many climbing venues in ne oregon/western idaho region; alpine, crag, mixed, water ice and ski descents. Would love to find safe, fit and motivated partners for some forays into this region for continued new routes and visits to some of the best unknown climbing/skiing areas around. Thanks, mh-
  17. Hell

    Yes, lets get something planned for a weekend down there after Labor day!! Dave I am glad you had a good time, how was the ivy this season?
  18. Hell

    I will try, new job and training in texas/midwest to commence around that time. I should get the chance to begin scanning my topos and will share them when i can. Hope to see you in April Dave- MH-
  19. Hell

    Hey Dave, Nice topo for the south face of the flatiron. Here are a few additions for ya. Draw a line between the top pitch of 15 and the second of 14. Thats a 70m variation at 5.10D, two pitches with the first one off the ledge at maybe an R, its scary. The second one goes through the roof on great holds, very exciting and protected well. Also out riding fences 11 gos left from part way up desperado or billys 11 whatever start you prefer, across the orange wall maybe thirty feet of traversing, then up through the roof (hard to make out on this screen)on excellent rock. Rap from second set of anchors with one rope. These lines were all established on the lead for your reference. And I can,t tell, but is 14 graded 5.7? Its the original line climbed 2/18/2000 (we also did some water ice first ascents that weekend in the Elkhorns too!)also put up on lead and its a solid 5.10. We used only 8 bolts but it now has still only eleven! Needless to say its popularity is low!! Thats to bad because it actually has good natural pro and provides access to those great variation pitches above, if in to that type of committed climbing. Do you have something like this for the west face? As you know, I have a bunch of undocumented stuff there, some of which has been incorrectly recorded by Yoder. I established a really good route you would like after you left for Arizona. It is a beautiful easy 10 on a super clean section of stone similar in quality to limosuine. See ya around, Mark Hauter-
  20. [TR] Valdez, AK - Classics 2/3/2011

    Awesome! Looking forward to that area!
  21. Trip: Rock Creek Oregon - Date: 2/5/2011 Trip Report: Made it up to Rock Creek in the elk horn mountains for some great climbing this past weekend. The approach is six miles in and beware of the ice on rock creek lane! The photos are a little mixed up and funky but the routes are tobacco gully, nicotine free, and my new route rollover, a fine M7 named after my mishap on the way out!! The pillar of nicotine freeJP cruising tobacco gully Beginning the crux of rolloverRollover M7Finishing on the thin ice
  22. I called the local towing outfit, superior towing from Baker City. They showed up with a standard tow truck and a jeep equipped with a winch. The guy driving the jeep gets out and states that its not so slick (thinking I was another touron driver) seconds before biting it on his face. Good comedy!! Any way, they hauled it into town as I was late for a friends retirement party. The next day, I taped up the window openings and then drove easy back to LaGrande. My route is all gear but I carried pins with the intent of fixing at least one at the crux. (I had top roped this line once two weeks previous, it is just left of nicotine free). Once at the crux, I realized that trying to fix that pin was not going to happen so I yarded up on the left tool and stuffed that green cam behind a spike. The gear was good but it would be reassuring to have a known bomber piece right there.
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