Pencil_Pusher Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Uh, check it out. Pure Blasphemy A how-to that's a little more descriptive than fishproducts website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 What's blasphemous about bolt-placement advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 This idea of teaching bolt placement doesn't seem different than teaching cam placement. The actual act of teaching safety is the same in both arenas I would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backcountrydog Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 ya what gives peepee? the article sounds about right to me. good advice on how not to botch a bolt job. or is this another "chop em all", anti-climbing troll?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 The first lesson in placing bolts should be to go to Darrington and climb with Mattp and DavidW and see how far apart bolts really should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 I see that article lacking for its failure to more clearly state that bolts are offensive to some, clearly carry an associated environmental impact, and may by their very presence detract from the climbing experience for many who follow. It fails to even suggest the idea that an effort should be made to minimize their number. That said, it is the first time I have seen a good description on how to at least try to do it right. I think the reluctance to publish such advice has been founded in the worry that it may invite every Tom, Dick and Harry with some extra time and money on their hands to go out and start drilling holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 There's a lot of reasons why sport-climbing sucks. Here's one of the biggest: Â Â Thanks for the "favor".....not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 The first lesson in teaching about bolts should be a big ethical one: why bolts should be rare and each individually justified. As Mattp suggests above, that description is a how-to without the "why" , "why not" and "when". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 I always love when the first bolt of the climb is at crotch level... Â There's a lot of reasons why sport-climbing sucks. Here's one of the biggest:Â Â Thanks for the "favor".....not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Dwayner, just curious, why do you think that sport climbing sucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 He's placing bolts at a belay, you morons. Â More bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Oh, and anybody here have an opinion about the overbolted slag-heap with the million trails and contrived, WAY overgraded bolt-gridded routes at the used-to-be-nice slab area called Flagstone, OR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 He's placing bolts at a belay, you morons. Â Almost looks like a nice easy walk off from there, maybe he should just buy a longer rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Why does not guy say not to use epoxy? NOTE: Use of epoxy or silicon in the holes is not recommended, as it traps moisture when the bolt contracts and expands. I thought the whole idea of epoxy is to keep water OUT of the hole. The stainless steel bolt is not going to rust, but if a lot of water gets in there, it is going to freeze and thaw until it pops the bolt out. The epoxy, even if imperfect at excluding all the water will at least displace most fo the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Man was not made to touch every part of this earth. Â It is okay if we leave some places untouched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Yea, the chuffer has been "climbing" since 1967, but don't know shee-ite 'bout much of bolting science. The tard shoulda mentioned using 5-part bolts so they can be easily removed later when somebody with sense decides his testpiece is protected with tard gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 I moved this thread to spray because it doesn't belong in the Gear Critic. I mean no offense to anyone. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott_J Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Good site. And heeeerrrreee we go again on the to bolt or not to bolt tirade!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Damnit people!! Â If bolting must happen do it on something like Garfield. BTW rumor has it someone bolted some sport route up there. Share the details so we can all climb it if you have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 I recently bolted Tiger Mtn. north face. It was dangerous and exhausting work, but I had oxygen and doobies. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyclimbsnow Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 aaahhhh dooobies make it al the worhtwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil_Pusher Posted February 7, 2003 Author Share Posted February 7, 2003 No wonder I couldn't find this damn post, it was put in spray by Lamebone! I agree with Stefan, there are certainly places we should leave untouched... but what does that have to do with bolting? Â "Pure blasphemy" because I think there's some justification for Retro's "warm fuzzy feeling" and the anti-bolt militia. But I also think that bolt should be placed right because we all clip those damn things with an expectation that they're virtually bomber. Cool, new gremlins! Here's one for the lamebone oh, nice name for it too! Hey, this is sprayland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 "we all clip those damn things with an expectation that they're virtually bomber." Â We? Speak for yourself. Numerous bolts are suspect. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 "bomber bolts? K, you go first" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 "we all clip those damn things with an expectation that they're virtually bomber."Â We? Speak for yourself. Numerous bolts are suspect. Â Yeah, those things are snapping off and pulling out all the time. Can't go a day at Smith without hearing that melon-on-pavement-type of sound every couple hours. Suspect, suspect, suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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