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Everything posted by freeclimb9

  1. Aid Climbing/Rock Climbing Partners wanted. Bend.O

    I'm not a "local". But I live in Bend and will be back to town in a couple weeks. I'll try to get in touch then.
  2. I live in Bend when I'm not at work. I should be back to town mid July for a month. I'll try to reach you then? Smith, Cougar, tick, power lines etc?
  3. Best Place to Teach Trad in washington?

    IMHO, clean aid climbing is a great way to learn how to place gear.
  4. Smith Rock Next week

    I'll be back in Bend by the 19th. I can make it to the park for a day.
  5. Closed loop or eye 2 eye for friction cord?

    Yes. Spectra slings won't hold with a prussik. Use a Hedden, or similar. Closed loop slings are stronger than rabbit eared, but spectra is so stupid strong the difference is moot. Static vs dynamic line=whole new set of considerations. Good luck.
  6. slamming Mikes mobile love shack

    This mundane van can be customized into something that would rip your head like the cra-cra chron. A shaggin wagon, dog. At the very least, a sticker that says something like "MRNP Climbing Rangers. It's all fun and games until someone pokes their eye out."
  7. Utah-Aid and or Free

    1000 words: It goes free at 5.12 something. The roof is at the top of Coffin crack which goes at 5.9+ (another classic).
  8. Utah-Aid and or Free

    There were snow flurries last week. Today the temp is barely hitting 70, and it's supposed to get cooler. That doesn't mean that June will be cool, but June isn't far off either. If you have a jones for aiding, the Coffin Roof is spectacular, though very easy. Otherwise, pick a crack and get on it.
  9. Utah-Aid and or Free

    June is a great time of year to climb out of SLC. It won't be too hot. The LCC has many routes that get shade, Ferguson Canyon is mostly shade, Bell's Canyon is like LCC but a little higher in elevation, Millcreek Canyon (a short hike from Big Cottonwood Canyon) is cool, and Lone Peak Cirque can be freezing. Bouldering is very good in LCC (there's an online guide somewhere). So, take your pick.
  10. Hemcon bandages

    Though few like to ponder first-aid on a trauma victim, we all expose ourselves to that possibility. A new product by an Oregon based company offers a real breakthrough. Hemcon makes a bandage that stops bleeding better than anything else. A blurb from their website: "The HemConTM Bandage has been studied in pre-clinical models including a spleen laceration model, carotid artery laceration model, an aortotomy model, and a model of extreme liver injury. In the aortotomy model, all swine treated with the HemCon bandage promptly stopped bleeding and survived, whereas all control animals treated with conventional gauze dressings died of massive bleeding. The severe liver trauma study demonstrated a significant reduction in blood loss and increase in survival rates with the HemCon BandageTM compared to the gauze controls." www.hemcon.com
  11. More snow in Utah.

    For you PNW folks that are bound for the OR show, there's some decent snow. Little Cottonwood Canyon --as usual-- has benefited the most from recent storms, but the forecast is for continued snow through Friday. Could be sunny with plenty of powder for the weekend. Snow reports for the state are at http://www.skiutah.com/snow_report/ As for ice climbing, the LCC and Provo canyon have the closest and most easily accessed ice. But reliable Santaquin isn't too far from SLC, and Maple Canyon is pretty good this year. The recent snow will be good for refreshing ice in Maple, but could be bad for Provo in terms of avalanche danger. I'll try to make it to the show on Sunday to check out the new gear offerings, and I'll have Go Zaps in my pack. If you want some to try, just tell me where to deliver them. I'm free for climbing on Monday and Tuesday if someone wants to sample some Utah classics. PM me, or get in touch with me through the www.iceclimb.com website where my email is posted. best regards all.
  12. More snow in Utah.

    The scariest layer is from the surface hoar from January that got buried. Since I don't have the willpower to posthole far enough away from the plowed roads for avalanches to be a factor, I don't worry about it.
  13. More snow in Utah.

    I have been told that Salt Lake City's population is about 40% LDS which is low when you consider that it is the center of the faith. I live in a town in which 85% are of the dominant religion, so SLC feels liberal when I visit. BTW, a low got stuck over the northern part of the state for the weekend, and the snow totals went way up. The ice has been good this season, too, and there are several weeks left of it, at least.
  14. A coming-of-age short story.

    I resurrected a short story I wrote a long time ago, and put it online for kicks. It's not climbing related, but you might find it entertaining. You might find it amateurish and boring. But if it stimulates a little emotion, then it's done its job. http://www.zappage.com/TheGun.html
  15. Devastating Fatigue

    Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness (DOMS) is what you're referring to. The exact cause of DOMS is unknown (though it probably stems from damaged muscle membranes), but it can be prevented, or at least lessened by: 1) avoiding dramatic changes in training intensity or quantity, 2) maintaining muscle flexibility, and 3) incorporating some "eccentric" workouts into your training schedule. "Eccentric" refers to a contracting of the muscle while it's being stretched. Examples of eccentric training include running downhill and various hopping exercises (one leg hop, two leg hop, skipping, etc.) --basically, plyometric exercise. It's thought that the proactive benefit comes from muscle recruitment rather than any increased fiber strength. Post exercise consumption of high glycemic index foods along with proteins will help as will drinking plenty of fluids (but not alcohol despite all traditions to the contrary). Post exercise ibuprofen will help decrease the perception of soreness, but taking it before won't, and it won't speed recovery. Mild stretching and exercise do speed recovery.
  16. No Pain No Gain DVD from BD

    I recently got a copy of the "No Pain No Gain" DVD by Backbone Media and distributed by Black Diamond. It's a video shot in Switzerland of some incredible athletes training, competing, and drytooling. Sport "ice climbing", if you will. To be frankly honest, I was skeptical about the entertainment value of the DVD before I saw it. But I played it last night, and everyone in the house sat enraptured. It's pretty cool. If you get a chance, check it out. Black Diamond will send the DVD with any online order, or for $5.00 to cover shipping and handling they'll send it to you. I think it's easily worth the five bucks.
  17. IBEX!

    Everytime I've been there I've been shut down by v4 and v5 (eg. Red Monster). But the rock is awesome, and the scenery surreal. I'm going iceclimbing myself. It's been incredibly cold for a while (-7 Farenheit this morning). Ibex won't be much warmer, and the nights are long. Recent reports of ice can by found at www.iceclimb.com
  18. Gimme a fuckin break

    My hometown. They should have taken that guy to the downtown station and given him a ride in the elevator. Believe me, you'll piss blood after one of those.
  19. Number of bicycles

    one is all you need one $@?^&%! speed!
  20. Wall pulley

    I assumed the wallhauler question related to doing one wall in Zion. That typically means one night on the wall. Why spend money for something you'll use a dozen times? But, hey, you're a teacher, so you know all about "unsolicited advice".
  21. Wall pulley

    How much weight do you think you'll haul? Personally, I think hauling sucks, jugging with a pack isn't that bad, and specialized gear just makes the rack heavier. You'll lead with jumars, or ascenders, anyways, right? Why not just use a plain pulley (useful for clipping to your harness as you wander roped-up on glaciars so you look like you know what you're doing), or none at all for lighter loads (it's very fast to handline. Just attach a weighted jumar well below you on the haul line, and whip it up)?
  22. Desert Climbing

    It will likely be very cold. It's more likely to snow than rain. The upside is that gobis don't sting so much when your hands are numb. Cam hooks suck for soft stone. Slider nuts are useful. A fat freeclimbing rack works for a lot of Zion routes. The ranger office used to have extensive information on routes (precise rack recommendations and such). Many routes don't even require a ledge, especially if you blast in a day. Bring extra headlamp batteries.
  23. Ski/Board Run of your life !

    I had a day at Powder Mountain some years back. It had dumped four feet of fluff the night before. Midweek, so few people. Bluebird day. Not even a thought of a cloud. The snow crystals sparkled like diamonds. I made run after run down through the aspens of "Powder Country" --yet another HUGE ungroomed area at that resort. The kind of day that feels spiritual.
  24. Utah Powder

    Check the Utah ski report for updated snow depths. Alta reports 45 inches. And today has been incredibly sunny and quite warm, so that base will shrink. IMHO, early season snow is like early season ice: dulls the tools, but keeps the form intact.
  25. Hyalite

    You forgot to add: November 21-23, Bozeman Ice Festival