iain Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I always liked the third pitch on Snake. Just good climbing, nice views and there are usually so many people on the apron, that it seems almost like you're going for a walk in the park than climbing a few hundred feet up. Â Getting to the anchors of Mosquito is fun too, because you didn't have to wait in line. Smoke Bluff Connection I think is a classic. Lots of climbing but you don't feel strung out there (then again I haven't done the fourth pitch). Â To feeling the exposure, I think towards the top of Black Peak NE ridge felt kinda airy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 A few pitches below the top of the NE Buttress of Slesse is one that is labeled in CAG as "incredible 5.8" and "80 ft of continuous 5.7." That is maybe my favorite single all time alpine rock pitch. One move after another with good pro, decent rests and, obviously, outstanding position. Â The approach to this pitch takes a little while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 sport slab: Hydrotube at Flagstone, Oregon trad: Hospital Corner at Spring Mt. Oregon pack animal, cruel sister, crack of infinity, kunza corner at smith chimney: epinepherine at Red Rocks, Nevada Mixed: explosive energy child at Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gripped Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Sky Ridge at Smiff. Hand traverse on the 2nd pitch. Â Oh! I forgot about that one. Yeah, that is really awesome. Make sure you look down half way across the traverse... and the leader should have the camera for some good pics of the second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 That hand traverse is pretty amazing. Â For the grade, I think Clay at Index is one of the best in the state. Maybe this thread could be continued as single best route for the grade that you've climbed? Â Rant on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 So Many good pitches but some random thoughts  5.8 Sphagetti Sauce Slab, layback, face, stem, crack, chimney all in 80'  5.9 Godzilla  5.10- p2 of Davis Holland  5.10 Exasperator  5.10+ last two pitches of NW Face of North Early linked  5.11d Clay. Oh wait.....I don't climb 5.11d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 14, 2004 Share Posted February 14, 2004 What? we have to climb them too?... Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 5.5 and easier = Saber/midway  5.6 = R&D  5.7 = outerspace shield pitch  5.8 = Orbit/nface mole/Old Gray Mare  5.9 = Godzilla/"i think its booty" The Professor EFace/Dreamer/ Damnation  5.10 = lovin arms/hyperspace/the Regular Route on Eagle Rock (warrior wall)/Sloe Children/Exasperator/Brass Balls  5.11 = Psychopath/Boving route on SEWS/Jap Gardens/the Joust  5.12 = I am sure one of the cracks at index in this range is very worthy/ I have only climbed 12-sport and none are even memorable enough to really remember the names.  5.13 = City Park/ The Shadow (may be 5.12?)  5.14 = Does the NW have any good .14 cracks?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 don't know if anyone mentioned it in this huge thread and i'm too lazy to check, but: Â 5.7 - beacon rock - se corner, pitch 2. amazing pitch in a sweet setting. contains opportunities for every major type of climbing move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 don't know if anyone mentioned it in this huge thread and i'm too lazy to check, but:Â 5.7 - beacon rock - se corner, pitch 2. amazing pitch in a sweet setting. contains opportunities for every major type of climbing move. Â Nope, no one mentioned that one Ivan. Theres been some great routes mentioned. Blownout was the only beacon route named so far, which is strange as Beacon has some routes which might beat some of the routes named so far. Â That pitch on SE corner is pitch 3 unless it's done with Cruisemaster, and Crusimaster is about as good as it gets too. Â Other memorable routes are Dod's Jam (first 3 pitches), Ground Zero (1st 3 pitches) to the roof, I've never freed the 2nd pitch), Bluebird and Free for Some are all very good Beacon canidates as well. There might be at least 5 more that would rank right up there with some of the others I would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 i always wondered if that walk over on the path to the base of the money pitch on the se corner was worth calling a pitch....a bold lead to be sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Alpine Rock- N. Ridge of Stuart-Great gendarme is spectacular Southwest buttress of S.E.W.S. Dreamer- amazing friction and crazy face climbing way up near the top Zebra Zion-Smith-Fucking amazing Leuthold variation for Snow and Ice-Hood Moonshine Dihedral-Sickness Route on the JY crag in icicle canyon-200 ft pitch, first half 5.9 friction, second half 5.9 crack Sport-wherever I may roam-smith Love fest 2004 aww yeah fooos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 bluebird climbed directly from the winters delight anchor is one of my favorite pitches at beacon....long, sustained with a straight in hand crack to finish it off. the fourth pitch of young warriors is another good one. and don't forget about pipeline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 skyclimb, what variation of luethold you speaking of? up yocum's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 The north face of Mount Hood in fall ice conditions is probably the best of the "standard" routes I have done on the mountain. Â The final ridge climb up Early Morning Spire is pretty nice in terms of position. Â The snow arete on NB of Mt. Fury is pretty incredible too, but that just may be because it's still in my mind as a recent memory. It's the point where you realize you are going to make it and you can actually enjoy the ridiculous position you are in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Pretty much any pitch of Clean Break. Especially the first two & wide crack connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 ditto what iain said on the n face of hood in perfect fall conditions...fuk'n spectacular! still curious what's so great about luetholds...maybe paul knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 still curious what's so great about luetholds...maybe paul knows? Â Eat my shorts gimp-boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 5.6 - R&D, 11worth + Cinnamon Slab, Smith 5.7 - Givler's 2nd Pitch, 11worth & 7 Virgins and a Mule - Vantage 5.8 - Catapult, Lower Castle Rock, 11worth & Party in Your Pants, Vantage & Lion's Jaw, Smith 5.9 - The Dihedral, Minnehaha & first pitch of It Ain't Hay, Chimney Rock, Idaho 5.10A - Cocaine Crack and Angel Crack, 11Worth 5.10B - Fun Roof, Chimney Rock, Idaho & Wedding Day and Let's Face It, Smith Rock 5.10D - Don Quixote - Minnehaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 5.9 pitch (right before the summit) on E face of Inspiration in the Pickets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Last two pitches of Banana Peel, Sqaumish ( pitches are 5.4) Pisces, Index 5.6 Joes Dyke, Sqaumish, 2nd pitch. Awesome!!! 5.7 Personal fav. High Mountain Woody, Sqaumish (5.8) Brilliant! Rogers Corner, pitch 2, Index. 5.9 Soul Mate, Sqaumish, 5.10 b ish Fatty Bolger, Sqaumish, 11a ( I TR this ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.