where is good sport climbing in Leavenworth?

[markwebster]

yes, I know, sport climbing is neither. I have a bunch of friends from edgeworksclimbing.com in tacoma who drive all the way to smith because they think there isn't sport in Leavenworth.

 

I usually just climb trad there, so I'm out of touch with what new sport areas have been developed up the icicle.

 

I know about the pinnacles, love washboards etc. I've also been to sam hill, 4th of july wall, secret dome, the new 4 climb dome down river from Mountaineer buttress and have climbed heart of gold and off duty. Dog dome was overgrown 4 years ago, I assume it still is?

 

Is there anything I'm missing? Yes, I know these guys need to grow up and learn to climb cracks, but in the meantime, where can they sport climb in Leavenworth?

[Sol]

...

[richard_noggin]

Your friends are right there is not much for sport climbing in Levenslab, Try Clems Holler, the Nut House and Puzzle Palace

Puzzle Palace has overhanging white granite,a long walk tho and it could use some more routes put up also.

[Raindawg]

...I have a bunch of friends from edgeworksclimbing.com in tacoma who drive all the way to smith because they think there isn't sport in Leavenworth. Is there anything I'm missing? Yes, I know these guys need to grow up and learn to climb cracks, but in the meantime, where can they sport climb in Leavenworth?

 

Sport routes in Leavenworth are not to be encouraged. There are hundreds of beautiful trad routes to climb there. Encourage your buddies to invest the time to learn how to climb trad or send them off to that Sport-Wonderland known as Exit 38.

[billcoe]

Sport routes in Leavenworth are not to be encouraged. There are hundreds of beautiful trad routes to climb there. Encourage your buddies to invest the time to learn how to climb trad or send them off to that Sport-Wonderland known as Exit 38.

 

...exactly on the money what Don said: and Smith is a good place for them to keep going. Really really good.

[Spore]

Drip Wall has good hard Sport, as does Rattlesnake.

 

and sense when has Sport not been encouraged there ?

[orion_sonya]

Drip Wall has good hard Sport, as does Rattlesnake.

 

yes - and Nason Ridge too.

Edited October 1, 2009 by orion_sonya

[Pete_H]

A lot of the rock doesn't lend itself to good sport climbing, but some of it does. And when it does, it should be encouraged.

[chirp]

I'm living proof that you can teach an old dog new tricks

 

 

 

[billcoe]

I heard that edgeworksclimbing.com in tacoma already has sport climbing:-)

 

They'll save a fortune on gas.

[Off_White]

A lot of the rock doesn't lend itself to good sport climbing, but some of it does. And when it does, it should be encouraged.

 

There you go, a pragmatic approach from a guy you couldn't label a "sport climber."

 

Bolt protected routes are scattered all over Der, but a lot of them are slabby and often bolted like slabs: no z clipping opportunities. Dog Dome was great, sorry to hear its overgrown. Then again, I love me that slabby stuff.

 

Groping Oprah's Navel was pretty sporto, I liked that one. They can also throw a TR on some cracks and develop some skills that way, nothing wrong with top roping, and Der is full of half rope or less wonders. That off-hand crack across the road from the Snow Creek parking area springs to mind, easily TR'd off a tree above. Those Alphabet Rock routes all TR easily too, right? And they're close enough to the road you won't be bulking up your legs on the approach.

 

[Spore]

Routes at Dome Dome are not that over growen, climbed several lines there in the spring, take a wire brush with you and pitch in a little. Also dont forget Rat Creek Dome for sport climbs.

[markwebster]

I used to love dog dome, awesome bolted slab climbs there, "safe" runouts with no ledges to hit. I may give it another go. I hear you on the wire brush, great idea. I've thought about going up there with a $20 can of moss killer, sprinkle it on the moss on the way up just like I do on my roof. Anyone ever try that?

[Rad]

There's a good concentration of bolted routes at Ozone if you can find it.

[mkporwit]

There's also some nice sport at the Pearly Gates

[Sherri]

Ozone topo:

 

 

There's also a toprope area containing several good face/slab routes near Playground point.

[Jens]

Tumwater Canyon is where to go. Icicle Canyon is 2nd rate for sport compared to Tumwater.

Nason Ridge is awesome.

Drip wall is good.

Rattlesnake Rock is good.

Chameleon Wall is good.

[dirtysloper]

Drip... Drip.... Drip... Thanks Sol!

[Toast]

Your friends are right there is not much for sport climbing in Levenslab, Try Clems Holler, the Nut House and Puzzle Palace

Puzzle Palace has overhanging white granite,a long walk tho and it could use some more routes put up also.

 

:tup:

[rocketparrotlet]

There's plenty of good toprope climbing at Leavenworth in Icicle Creek Canyon, think Bruce's Boulder and Barney's Rubble area.

 

-Mark

[beer_factor]

Sport routes in Leavenworth are not to be encouraged. There are hundreds of beautiful trad routes to climb there. Encourage your buddies to invest the time to learn how to climb trad or send them off to that Sport-Wonderland known as Exit 38.

 

Well, I HEARD that this place called Beacon Rock is full of *classic* sport routes. No experience necessary, just start flailing!

[stevetimetravlr]

Beacon is great, very classic and sporting. Dave McCrae getting it done on Blownout.