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Toast

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Everything posted by Toast

  1. Laurel Fan

    Saddened, my condolences to her friends and family
  2. Climb: Forbidden-East Ridge Direct Date of Climb: 7/23/2005 Trip Report: Klenke called me the other day. I've wanted to do the East Ridge Direct on Forbidden for a while now, so I threw that at him. To my surprise, he said, sure. The hills must be running out of Devil's Club or something. Anyway, we started off from the trailhead about 5:30, made it up to the high camp before 8:00 and were at the base of the climb by 10:00. The snow on the way up was hard and crusty. I noticed a pair of old school crampons with Swiss Straps at the col. If you're looking for them, there still there. Klenke pops one of them energy drinks. Then this happens... The next thing I know, he's doing this. I gotta get me some of that stuff. All in all, the climb is super fun with lots of exposure. The climbing isn't too hard, but there's plenty of exhiliration from not really knowing what to expect. You know, what line to take, which hold is gonna hold and which isn't - there's a few loose blocks, watch out. For the most part, though, the rock is solid, grippy, and with positive holds all around. We simuled the first half then put on shoes and pitched out the second half. Bring a few extra double length slings. Rope drag was really bad in a few spots. And if you take Klenke along, you'll need to steer him away from the nearest sprig that looks like brush and keep him focused on the ridge line. We took the NE Face descent, followed the previously posted beta, and rapped/downclimbed five or six single rope pitches down then began our traverse back to the col. Nelson makes it sound like there's an obvious ledge system to follow. There is, but it's not obvious at first. We picked up cairns after a while and half way along there was evidence of other tromplings. Before we knew it the gulley to the col was right there where it's supposed to be. Be warned, the NE Face descent route is not for those squeamish about unroped, exposed, class 3 terrain. We made it back to car sometime before 10:00. I only needed my headlamp for that big ass log at the beginning of the trail. Gear Notes: Light crampons, ice axe, set of nuts, cams through 2", and lots of double length slings. Approach Notes: The trail into Boston Basin is super brushy and overgrown. Most of the snow is gone, but snow on the permanent snowfields was hard in the morning and soft and plungy on the way down.
  3. Good reuse of a half rack container
  4. Anybody know the name of the route that leads up to Banana Peel from the Chief parking lot? I think it's a two or three pitch moderate route? If I recall, there were actually a couple of lines. Thanks!
  5. Just had to give props where props are due
  6. I'd wondered what had happened. It's gripping reading. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Climbing Accident in the Gorge?

    Two different accounts, Yak Herald reports a 15' fall. KIRO and KUOW report a 60' fall. http://www.yakimaherald.com/home/1238059-8/tacoma-woman-hurt-in-climbing-accident-west-of
  8. best of cc.com Friction is stranger than truth

    Feelin' the need to bring Uncle Tricky back
  9. Seattle Pubclub

    Next time
  10. Tieton Tent Theft

    Probably five or six years ago our neighbor's tent got sotlen, a brand new Bibler he was taking up to Alaska. Ever since then I've used a POS tent cragging and taken anything valuable like a sleeping bag with me. Hope karma comes down on the theif
  11. Where are the easy trad leads? <5.7

    There are two new routes to the left of Hand Jive on the Green Wall at Vantage. As you beging hiking up the trail to the Mesa (trail to the Sunshine Wall) look for chain anchors off to the left of the trail. Not sure of the grade, but prob in the 5.6 - 5.7 range. Untill there's more traffic on the route, they'll remain dirty, so be sure to wear a helmet anywere at the base. Back at Zig Zag wall are prob five or six easyish routes. Lady in Red and Tank Trap at the far left end and a few others closer to the right end. Watch out of poison oak and again wear a helmet around here. On the Sunshine Wall are Crack in the Back, Seven Virgins and a Mule (you will need to build an anchor at the top of this one) and Chapstick next to the gulley.
  12. Where are the easy trad leads? <5.7

    The roadside crags along Icicle Creek Road near Leavenworth aren't the most interesting but there's lots in that range. - Mountaineers Dome - Lower Clamshell - Mad Meadows / Playground Point - Barney's Rubble - Bruces Boulder - Alphabet Rock There's always the Index classic, the Great Northern Slab. It's 3 pitches. The second is a beautiful twin crack that will gobble up gear. The third is a half pitch of bolts. Variations to the right of the first pitch will bump it up a notch or two. There are sea walls along the waterfront in South Everett that are good for plugging gear. Just drive west past Forest Park to the water, cross the train tracks, and pack out your beer bottles and trash when you leave
  13. FS: leader's pack, $25

    SOLD!
  14. I'll have a class at royal columns this weekend. Just a heads up there will be a lot of traffic on the easier routes around the Western Front. If you see an unoccupied route you'd like to climb, just ask, and we'll pull the top rope.
  15. RIP - Doug Stufflebeam

    Sad news... Doug Stufflebeam passed away last week. He introduced me to my first glacier and taught me about adventure. http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/skagitvalleyherald/obituary.aspx?n=douglas-lee-stufflebeam&pid=156588177
  16. RIP - Doug Stufflebeam

    Beckey's slide show always had a pic of Doug and his dog Winter in it.
  17. CC.com Turns 11

    Where's Uncle Trickey when you need him?
  18. Sprained Ankles?

    Right now you're injured. Ice, arnica, and isolation are what you want. See if you can find one of those Velcro soft casts secondhand at Goodwill. You'll look silly, but wear it for a week (and well after you think you're healed.) After, move onto the rehab routine. Zenith Supplies on Roosevelt used to sell Arnica Pine Salve made by Herb Technologies. It's magic for soft tissue injuries.
  19. Trip: Mount Vayu - NW Ridge Date: 8/28/2011 Trip Report: Mt Vayu - NW Ridge 8/28/2011 Sergio Verdina and I climbed the NW Ridge of Mount Vayu this weekend. I didn’t see a ton of trip reports, so thought I’d share a little beta. Mt Vayu is a prominent 9100’ peak located 40 miles north of Pemberton BC. Its position, deep in the Coast Mountains, offers a fun ridge climb with spectacular views all around. The rock climbing itself is mostly exposed scrambling with a few Class 5 moves and a short rappel off a gendarme to maintain the ridge. The crux is the approach, a cross country bushwhack with few signs of foot traffic. The TR’s we did find mentioned ample flagging, but aside from the first and only sighting, we didn’t come across any more. We took the high route in and the low route out. The drive is long, 2.5 hours from Pemberton on mostly decent dirt road – washboard with pot holes, but none too bad. Driving directions can be found in the McLane Guide, Alpine Select. While it mentions that a high clearance 4WD vehicle is required, a 2WD beater car would do. The final spur off Jamie Creek Road is overgrown with alder in places. You won’t want to take a shiny new car up that. We parked about 2 miles short of the described start and hiked in from there. On the way, we crossed two bridges and a lot of bear scat. There is a third bridge, but the route forks up to the right just before it. You can continue straight into clear cut where the road will peter out and follow the north bank of the river (i.e. the low route.) However, we saw a shag of flagging above us that directed us up the high route. We followed that up, trending leftwards, and leveled out on a side hilling traverse at roughly 5700’. That wasn’t particularly pleasant, and we were likely higher than we needed to be. Eventually we sighted the ridgeline and Peak 7651 that we would skirt around to get to the outlet creek that drains the Pancake Glacier. We rounded an obvious ridge and dropped into the outlet creek drainage. At that point we could see a steep wall of talus off to the left that would lead up to the Pancake Glacier. We crossed the creek and picked our way thru dense brush to a flat area that opened up. While it was obvious this was camp, and a goddamn fine one at that, heather was abundant with few if any signs of foot trampling. Aside from a pair of heli ski markers, this place was near virgin. Car to camp took us five hours. We settled in for dinner, a few medicinal drinks and an incredible show of alpenglow to stars. We woke leisurely after sunrise and got a start up the talus about 8:00. The Pancake Glacier is appropriately named and fills the entire upper basin. The NW Ridge extends around to the right with a prominent gendarme at its lowest point before rising back up. McLane indicates the route begins to the left of that gendarme, but we picked our way up a lower angle line to the right of it. Getting around that gendarme was a little loose and dicey in places, but the remainder of the NW ridge is mostly sound granite. To me, it had similar flavor to the East Ridge Direct of Forbidden, but not nearly as technical. I think there was one move that would rate 5.4, the rest was mostly Class 3-4 but exposed. We summited at noon and took a long break to soak in the panoramic views of ice fields and dramatic peaks all around us. The descent along the East Ridge was easy and non-eventful. We dropped back onto the Pancake Glacier and made it back to camp in little over an hour. Our exit route started the same, but this time we didn’t hesitate to drop elevation in order to skirt obstacles. That said, we still had our share of slide alder and heinous brush to deal with. At times, that ranged up to BW4, but we were rewarded with lower angle terrain and a few open meadows that were bursting with wildflowers. In hindsight, we should have come this way. We made it back to the car by 6:00, about 5 hours from the time we left the summit. Three hours later we were dining on bitchin burgers at the Pony in Pemberton. That place kicks ass. This one's not for everyone, but I’d give it a thumbs up. Gear Notes: Half dozen double slings, minimalist rack, bug juice. Approach Notes: See McLane - Alpine Select.
  20. Just a heads up there'll be a bit of traffic at Royal Columns. I help with a lead class for the Everett Mountaineers. We'll mainly be on the easy routes to the left of the Western Front. Happy to accommodate if you see an open route. Just ask, and we can pull the top rope. Thanks,
  21. Free Self Rescue Clinic at Royal Columns

    Restrictions for raptor nesting lifted?
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