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Everything posted by orion_sonya

  1. Good ortho for a dislocated shoulder (Seattle)?

    bump - shoulders suck. Any more recommendations out there for a shoulder orthopedics Dr that is in tune with climber's needs in the Seattle area?
  2. Avalanche discussion thread

    I was not up there on Sunday - were there sunbreaks? The forecast mentions increased danger do to sun exposure on the south facing slopes.
  3. Avalanche discussion thread

    I don't disagree that 'untypical' conditions can get you and I think we should all be prepared for them, but plenty (most?) of avalanche accidents here have happened in classic cascade conditions. I personally think those 'typical' conditions are what bc travelers should have down pat as that is what we are normally out in. no love for the locale snow... tsk tsk...where else is 4" bottomless?
  4. Avalanche discussion thread

    Yes, the principles learned in an avy course should apply everywhere, but I know the class I took emphasized conditions that are typical to the pnw. So overall, I think there could be real value in taking the same class in different regions. While we do have all kinds of conditions in the pnw that any bc traveler should be aware and ready for, we do have typical conditions that are different than typical conditions in other locales.
  5. Wierd Hand Condition

    you aren't alone thinking it is climbing related. linky
  6. ROCK swing!

    JosephH, you crack me up; I did not know BASE jumping was so safe relative to rope swings. What is the point of your link? You selling Petzl gear? Side question, have you ever climbed above a small microstopper? To the OP, the production of the video is certainly strange; I definitely felt like I was supposed to buy something. Like was said earlier in the thread, this must be a self-promotion/portfolio project... edit to say - i see the link is put in there CC.com - oops - disregard.
  7. Wierd Hand Condition

    well that is interesting that you say that because it is documented that people with "nordic" descent have an increased risk of getting it. edit to add link Nordic Link
  8. Wierd Hand Condition

    I have something similar to you M. It had gotten very painful after mountain biking at whistler so I saw a orthopedic surgeon. He instantly recognized it as early/mild dupuytren's contracture. What I had thought was my pinky tendon turned out to be part of the syndrome. I don't think you are supposed to be able to feel your tendon or sheath through your hand. In more severe cases that false 'tendon sheath' can grow and bridge to the fingers causing the contracture.
  9. Wierd Hand Condition

    Dupuytrens is common with climbers and there is some evidence that climbing causes or exacerbates the condition. A classic symptom is a node at the base of the ring or pinky finger. If you google dupuytren and climbing you will get a bunch of hits.
  10. Avalanche Forecasts iPhone app now available

    Awesome! Can't wait to check it out. Are you planning an android version? I don't do the apple stuff...
  11. Definitely a good climb and a good list. You got to have at least one sandbag in any tick list I suppose
  12. haha - you would put someone on Zoom who was "breaking into 10s"?!
  13. compressor route chopped

    i might have the time and inclination to answer your question, but not right now. i said i'm sorry. plus, i think you broke my hand. but seriously, yes i was in favor of removing some bolts at index, on crack climbs, placed in the last 10 to 15 years. i posted both here and rcnw, and really lost my interest in doing so after hearing the divided opinion. yes i actually did take in what people said, and realized it would be a divisive act over a few pounds of metal that really rarely bother me, and only if i get on my high-horse! you ok btw? You actually listened to other's viewpoint and then changed your behavior based on that new information!? That is almost unpatriotic. I didn't really hurt your hand did I? I iced last night and feel quite a bit better today - should be okay.
  14. compressor route chopped

    man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel. it further saddens me that those two, with their stated reasons, took it upon themselves to do this deed. i guess it comes down to the fact that really no one would be able to justify such an act in eloquent terms. Why do you think their statement it is misleading? I thought you were all for removing bolts on climbs where bolts are deemed unnecessary.
  15. The Gorge at Smith has a lot of cracks that you can top rope as well as many well-protected trad climbs.
  16. compressor route chopped

    Well, orion_sonya is on the case now, so I'm not gonna let it bother me much more tonight. I'll see if I can scan my pic from my book and post it up this weekend, then we all can compare parts n' pieces. For now, I'm gonna go fix me some Planet Killers and kick back a bit. It's a freak'n freezing ice sheet outside my home, so I'm not going out fer drinks tonight... hmmm, relying on me only will lead to disappointment.
  17. compressor route chopped

    Good eye and thanks. Found a cool but small picture of the compressor presumably gassed up and ready for action.
  18. compressor route chopped

    Sobo, I am not sure when that picture was taken but there are other more recent pictures out there. I would have to think the ropes anchoring that thing get maintained. I wonder if someone re-hauled it back up there - that would be quite the effort. I am curious now, so I am digging... Orion
  19. compressor route chopped

    I was always under the impression (from what I've read) that Maestri brought the compressor down with him, but left it at the base of the route. It was found by Eric Jones in 1971. Citing: Big Wall Climbing, Doug Scott, Oxford University Press, 1974 Pretty sure Maestri left that thing up there
  20. Teiton - Lava Point

    Has anyone driven up there since it has snowed? Is it passable with a 4wd truck? thanks, Orion
  21. Stone Gardens - Bellevue

    Will my ballard stone gardens membership be honored there?
  22. Bolting overhanging routes

    I would need a bit more info about the line, but lacking that I would invest in some 1/4inch bolts. A skyhook is also handy. Is it pocketed limestone? then nuts and cams. Get the first bolt ( 1/4" or 3/8" ) in as high as you can safely reach, then alternate, try and work out clipping stances as you go. 1/4" bolts can be removed or tapped all the way in afterwards. You can get quite a reach from aiders - the 3/8" bolts will be about 6-8ft apart. Down bolting is probably the least successful. Have fun --------------dave yup Dave know what he is talking about - go ground up. you can also aid off non-expansion eye bolts between the 3/8" bolts instead of leaving 1/4". A tension line seems like a cluster and I am not sure you could get it tight enough to keep you close enough to the rock to drill easily. 50 degrees overhanging is steep!! edit - to say I have never tried to use a tension line and the post above makes it sound not so bad - so who knows...
  23. Hell

    I am pretty sure I know what route that is and I think that picture shows just about the entire route!
  24. Hell

    There are some worthy caves there.
  25. Index UTW

    It faces South/SouthEast and gets afternoon/evening shade. Def lot's of sun mid-day.