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eric8

Local overhanging cracks

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Spellbound- Midnight Rock

ROTC- Midnight Rock (overhangs at slot)

 

Leavenworth, Washington's Midnight rock= best trad climbing in WA, OR, or ID

 

 

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Pumpline 11b, leavenworth

 

It's 11a and not overhanging. That one move at the top doesn't count.

 

How about Carnival Crack, overhanging 10D offwidth.

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Washington's Midnight rock= best trad climbing in WA, OR, or ID

 

That is a reach..... ;)

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Physical Graffiti at Broughtons Bluff in Troutdale, OR. Guide calls it 10.d. I asked the FA about it….he said they graded it 10.d because at the time that was the hardest grade. I think its 11.a……it has fooled me three times…..

 

so mcgowen told you that 5.11 didn't exist in 1977 even though according to the PRCG a guy named d. bower did the ffa. i think bob might have been pullin your leg. anyway isn't mcgowen known for embellishing stories a smidge.

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Eric,

 

There a climb off Astro Ledge in Squamish (Zodiac wall) that follows one crack for two long pitches. The book says it overhangs and widens from fingers to fists over the course of the the first pitch, and on up to chimney width on the 2nd pitch. I haven't done it, but it sure sounds good!

 

"Gone Surfing" .11b ****

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Blazing Saddles overhangs a degree or two on the last pitch and then you get a roof traverse undercling for variety.

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Pumpline 11b, leavenworth

 

It's 11a and not overhanging. That one move at the top doesn't count.

 

How about Carnival Crack, overhanging 10D offwidth.

 

Its okay I wouldn't call Poison balance, Grand Daddy Overhang, Perry's Lieback, or pressure drop overhanging either...

 

Air roof good call guest I will finally have to go find and try that

 

Blake that does sound like a cool route. Is astroledge the one you can only reach by climbing Alaskan Highway?

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Blake that does sound like a cool route. Is astroledge the one you can only reach by climbing Alaskan Highway?

 

Looks like it, although the book makes it look like Astro Ledge may it might be reachable via the North North Arete or North North Gulley as well.

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I Almost Died (11a) at Smith - kind of like Culls in Space but with a thinner crack (more "slanting" than overhanging I guess).

 

Much Ado About Nothing (10d) at Smith has a short overhanging crack at top.

Edited by fgw

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So is Astrologger good? I don't own a squamish guidebook but I remember reading about multiple hand size pieces so i was thinking it must be pretty steep. Was it clean.

 

alaskan highway would be another one too I guess. Though I'm pretty sure it would chew me up and spit me out at the bottom.

 

Ryan probably just wants to know about Mastodon so he can TRY to talk me into leading it for him. :P

 

Astrologger was clean, good, and safe. Sig Isaac led it. Getting to the start was tricky but that was years ago, maybe the trees have been turned into stairs.

 

Alaska Highway has an undercling to start the second pitch but not much truly overhanging crack.

 

Masotodon Roof I remember doing with Brian Povolny. It was a big roof with good protection.

 

Spellbound I remember hanging by one hand jam towards the top while placing a cam and thinking it might have been better not to take the time.

 

Overhanging corner cracks seem more common than cracks in overhanging faces.

 

Did G-Spotter mention the Campground Wall climb (A Pitch in Time?). Shorter examples: brief bit on Whirlwind on the Apron, and Voodoo Amour. The first 3 moves of Perfidious Albion but they are more than enough.

 

Has anyone done Crucifixion?

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Okay mabye poison balance isn't sustained overhanging, but the crux is overhanging, pressure drop surely is barely overhanging, perrys is overhanging and arching, and grandaddy, could be on the line as it's under an overhang and does overhang slightly.

 

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minor hijack, but as long as someone else mentioned the climb... who thinks that the first two pitches of boarderline and blazing saddles will be dry after 2 days of dry weather? I.e we are looking to go check that out on friday but the book mentions that that whole area is slow to dry.

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minor hijack, but as long as someone else mentioned the climb... who thinks that the first two pitches of boarderline and blazing saddles will be dry after 2 days of dry weather? .

 

you are nuts.

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access to omak crack is closed.

 

not mentioned in the leavenworth area:

lazyboy

royal flush (boulder problem)

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that omak crack looks awesome.

 

Anyone done the Serpentine crack on Liberty bell? I have heard 10+ to 11+...

 

hey E. briefly overhanging. bigger gear. strenuous, 10+ or 11-. fun outing. E

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From 10d to 11d. By local I mean Index, Leavenworth, Tieton, Squamish, and I suppose Smith but only if its really a classic.

 

Marginal Karma

Debs Crack

High planes drifter

 

others...

 

if it's the one i'm thinking of, mastodon roof is awesome fun. up towards givler's dome, a 20' horizontal roof, with fun moves to exit. doesn't really climb as a crack though; more of a super-steep jug haul. 11c.

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Elephantiasis in Ronin's Corner is 10c hands going down to wide fingers at the top and about dead vertical. Kind of on the lower limit of the request though. The bottom 10' seeps but there are enough crimpy edges to get through the brown slime.

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hey eric, ive got a big list of l-worth roof cracks to hit up when I get back from yos, lets go crush!

 

here's some for you:

 

Index:

P1 of lamplighter

earwax

clay

 

 

L-worth:

big bad wolf

air roof

mastadon roof

the pressure chamber

rotc

easter overhang

brass balls

never-never crack

 

squish:

straight outta squampton

the perspective

sentry box

11c at base of apron (old guide)

crux of freeway

grandaddy overhang

 

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minor hijack, but as long as someone else mentioned the climb... who thinks that the first two pitches of boarderline and blazing saddles will be dry after 2 days of dry weather? .

 

you are nuts.

 

your A nerd

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2nd pitch of Rattle Tale at Index. slightly overhanging hand crack that traverses to the right 5.10 b/c which almost makes the numbers cut.

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Clay - Index

ROTC - Midnight Rock

 

There's a cool overhanging finger-ish crack just to the left of the Daily Planet up on the Sherrif's Badge - Squamish

 

High Plains Drifter - Squamish

Deb's Crack - Icicle Creek

Interceptor - City of Rocks

 

 

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