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tradclimbguy

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Everything posted by tradclimbguy

  1. RIP Ryan Triplett 1977 - 2008

    I am greatly saddened to hear about this. My heart goes out to his wife an family. You will be missed man.
  2. Anyone climb Tatoosh lately?

    Jesus Christ! It's just a F$#@%ing bolt at a crag. Nobody did the direct start anyway. And for the three of you that did on crappy gear in a crack that didn't really exist before it got cleaned... Good for you. Over the last month I've seen nearly 20 teams on the newly cleaned climb and it's GREAT!!! Before that you rarely saw anyone do Tatoosh with the tree and scary boulders at the top. Thank You for the clean up. Heck even I "question" the bolt but it is realy new direct start in it's cleaned state and I just keep remembering how Index is still just a crag and not some pristine mountain wilderness area. Be glad when people clean routes up or at least go climb Tatoosh and post pics of your hardman status as you climb past the bolt...
  3. New vs older Petzl Reverso?

    The back edge of the reverso's wears thin into a ridge. I've got one right now that is sharpening to a nice edge. Gonna have to retire it and get another one pretty soon.
  4. Loose Bolts

    Yeah, how about a heads up to the route itself... Then maybe we can check and replace those bolts and others put in by the same person in case a whole set is bad for some reason. Good to know on the crag though. Thanks. As for "bolts" in general I don't think you should ever trust any single bolt. I mean you don't worry about it on lead but you should always use both bolts at anchor type situations or even back them up if the seem suspect. I've hand pulled a bolt on lead before. Just popped it back in and clipped it anyway
  5. Local overhanging cracks

    Whartley's Revenge at Smith. Only one I can see hasn't been mentioned that I can think of.
  6. Kong Frog

    I found and bought one about 6yrs ago for the hell of it. Turned to be a piece of crap, which is kind of what I thought it would be but it looked too cool. My buddy took a fall on it first day out and really put a notch right in the two little hooks forming the top clip. Sure didn't seem like something anybody would want after that not to mention if you grabbed the top part it would unclip the draw! I've since stripped the biner and the rest of the draw sits in the bottom of my excess gear bin.
  7. DMM Peanuts!

    I'd agree that the angle on them seems to be too shallow. I only have about four on my rack, although they were all finders up at Index over the last handful of years. I still bring and lead on them depending on the route. They go on my odd nut rack of micro's and offsets for when you need something like that.
  8. Whats up with all this gear anchor stuff... Me, I just stick to the bolted stuff and the Pakistani death anchor. Works for me. Learning to quickly set 3 bomber pieces then equalizing them to a single power point with the rope or a cordalette is key. Keep working on it and stay safe.
  9. Route name at Vantage?

    This seems like a good thread to spew about all the FFA's I got out there this year already. I mean when major holds come off the next first send gets another FFA right? Vantage Rocks... I mean Vantage "is crumbly" Rocks. As for names chucK, I just denote them by blanket rating the whole crag. No need with names or numbers I just know them as 5.9 or 5.10 somethings...
  10. Alex Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress!

    http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alex-honnold-solo-moonlight
  11. Alex Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress!

    The title of this thread explains it all. There is a better thread on it over at SuperTopo. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=570480
  12. Conditions in Index

    All I gots is spray. Unless you want me to forward on some emails to work on...
  13. Climb for Life $2 Pint Night - April 3rd - Seattle

    Bump Bump! This is going to be a great event! Great weather, beer, climbers and prizes. You couldn't ask for more! Make sure to come on down.
  14. Hauling a second rope

    I thought the Durrance route was currently closed. You should definitely check that out before going there. The main pillar shifted and they've been worried it's going to eventually fall over. We did it a few years ago though and it was fun, not the best route in the world but something to do for the location and the feature. We had a team of three though so the second trailed the line that the third climbed on. There really aren't that many difficult chimneys on the pitch. As for hauling a second rope there are a number of options. You could either pack up the 8mm into a small pack that you carry and make the second deal with it. If you have big chimneys and a big bag you can hang it from your belay loop below you as you climb the chimney as a way to get it out of your hair. Another option would be to just lead on double lines and yet another option would be to simply have the leader trail the line with them. All good options and all options you should probably try out over time to know what works for you, how much rope clustering each involves and which you'd keep using for different routes you may get on in he future.
  15. Conditions in Index

    Dry yet?... No it's totally wet. Don't go. We haven't had any good days unless you include the multiple sunny dry awesome days we've had starting back in February I think I'm up to 7 good days in the sun and another 8 rainy aid days. And I'm an office slouch stuck behind a computer most of the time. I'm sure there are people with 30 or more days out there already in the warm sun on dry rock. Yesterday, today and tomorrow all look good. Now all I need to do is shed he job and I'll be golden.
  16. Best small cams

    I have a full set of the long stem zero's and of course a couple sets of aliens. I just can't shake two sets of aliens but the zero's are very nice. They really seem to like Yosemite granite and stick like glue. The only problem I have with the zero's is he very small range each has. Of the four only three are really useful on the free rack and of those three they have a very narrow range each. Still good as doubles or maybe triples behind the aliens.
  17. Mt. Erie Access in Danger

    I sent an email into Mr. Robinson for you. I'd hate to lose Mt. Erie. Not the biggest crag but still a crag with some climbing. Can't make it to the meeting though. Sorry.
  18. New Metolius cams

    aren't you fucking hard core! Oh, ow. I should probably run away from the armchair jockey's now, I knew a quick troll couldn't be passed up by you guys! I'm probably going to get all "sprayed" on now. Crap. I sooo give up. Please start by shoving all your name brand gear up my ass first.
  19. New Metolius cams

    You guys bashing on aliens are all tools. Sell me your aliens and I'll add them to the sets I already have along with half of the best climbers in the country as well. Then go have fun wanking around on whatever prissy gear you feel has a big enough label to climb on. Better yet, just turn in your rack and move to sport climbing. I think it would suit most of you better anyway. -TCG
  20. The $8000 Squamish Route

    I think the biggest thing is that the rock stays undamaged. Screw the trees, they'll grow right back if nobody climbs the route, it's not like damaging delicate desert growth or something. I mean just look at the pictures in the guide from 30 years ago compared to today. Global Warming has created a perfect climate for all those trees up there. I just think they figure they have to dig most every route out anyway, what's the difference if the amount of digging is slightly bigger? Especially if they keep some trees and things still on the route. I just hope they finish up so I don't have to worry about falling trees and dirt while on Millenium Falcon.
  21. The $8000 Squamish Route

    I thought about mentioning that right off the bat but thought it a worthless endeavor into the land of spray. The Grand has a bolt ladder on it yet it goes free. Right or wrong, it is what it is, right. So I figured since the route isn't finished and since I've not been on it I'd reserve comments and/or assumptions until it was finished. My gut feeling is that it's sort of lame to put up such a new route and toss in a bolt ladder unless its grade 5.whatever... but thats subjective to how hard you climb and to what level you feel a bolt ladder is justified. If it is truly a 5.7 then I probably shouldn't belittle the ladder even if 10c, as you say, is about as easy as a 7 anyway for me. So I'm going to continue to leave this one sit and pass judgement on it after I get on the route and see for myself.
  22. The $8000 Squamish Route

    More power to them. If they have the energy to clean that much crap off the rock and put up a new line I applaud them. It does look though like it runs right into Millenium Falcon at around pitch 5 but it's hard to tell looking at the picture.
  23. Squamish Picture

    One pitch from the top just right of the first 11a slab pitch on MF. They are standing partly behind a tree with a blue helmet. I think it's a 10a pitch if I remember right and if my eyes are right it almost looks like they have two lines with them. A blue lead line and a red/orange trail. You can only see the belayer and the rope going dow into the tree's where the other climber is probably hanging out though.
  24. Squamish Picture

    Nice. I missed you guys over there in the shade. Up to 15 now.
  25. Squamish Picture

    Nice. Which line are you on in the picture? I see people on the grand, two left of the grand, one on top by Ultimate Everything and a bunch of people on the apron (the snake and diedre). Oh and the other team just right of Millenium Falcon.
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