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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. I'm looking for current route info on the East side of Chimney Rock proper, post rock fall. Joe Lind wrote up a good description on his and Jesse's new section of crack climbing here a while back. Anything since then? Saw that the 2nd pitch of the C-H is still climbable at the original grade with a cleaner 2nd pitch after the rock fall of 2012. And that supposedly the old east face rap line is now being used as a hanging belay for that same 2nd pitch? True? Anyone have the beta, 1st hand details or a topo for anything new on that face? I've heard of a new thin, 1/2" finger crack route in the general area by "Aaron and Winter" @ 12+ ? Curious about any new bolts put in on that wall for pro, belays or as a rap station as well. When were drilled, for what and by whom? Thanks!
  2. Mt Borah in late Fall?

    Anyone been in there this time of year? How about this year? Conditions on the N. Face. How's the approach gonna be right now? Thanks! Some old school goodness for the day Not my photo. North face of Mt Borah - January, 1977 (Photo by Frank Florence)
  3. Mt Borah in late Fall?

    You have been talking to Bob I suspect Great to hear you are in Boise. Nice surprise! A month ago it was a drought locally. Still a drought. So there might be some options yet. We need to talk soon!
  4. Used one day. Not the best fit for my foot. Optional gaiter included. $700 shipped USPS. Pay Pal F&F preferred. more info here: https://skimo.co/scarpa-alien-1.0-boots
  5. $300 via F&F on Pay Pal NIB binding
  6. for sale Scarpa Alien 1.0 size 29

    $400 plus shipping. Same condition as originally posted.
  7. for sale FS Praxis 9D8 $250

    still hanging here. $200 now.
  8. 179cm, Flex: Medium/Stiff (Standard Edition Option), Topsheet Graphic Art: Speed, Core Ingredients: UL Core- Carbon/Triaxial Fiberglass, Base Graphic Options: Red Background Diecut, FS Praxis 9D8 Drilled one for a 307 bsl and a Dynafit Speed Super Light binding. 4 holes on the toe, 3 on the heel. Never skied. $250 plus actual shipping USPS from Boise.
  9. [TR] Chimney Rock - Free Friends 07/06/2021

    Nice photos on the TR Nick. 5.9+? Not sure I have ever climbed it with anyone that thought it was. But grades change with the times. As Marlin mentioned above, the easiest approach for effort (I've done all of them many times over) to the East Face is drop off the saddle on the north side of Roothaan and almost immediately head right (east) on the climbers trail to the next saddle north of and below Roothaan. Go around and behind the ridge that will eventually become Chimney rock proper. Stay really high on the slabs on the east side of the ridge (some 4th class will same so serious effort) that eventually leads to Chimney rock proper. Only reason I could ever see to come in the Pack River road was if you lived in Sandpoint. How about a couple more photos you The crux on 2 and looking down from the sinker hand jam on 3.
  10. for sale Scarpa Alien 1.0 size 29

    dropped the price $50.
  11. Looks real boney at the bottom for you guys from the couple times I've done it. Chock stone was covered as well. Top corner looks typically dry though. Nice job guys. It is a climb I really enjoy. Easy modern mixed and dry tooling on some nice granite. This is Craig at the entrance we used and a line drawing of where it was. Bit more snow on the chock stone Never was sure where Ade's party entered. Figured they traversed over to the same gully entrance. Ade's photo below. We went up the little gully at the black dotted line both times.
  12. [TR] Selkirks - High Traverse (III 5.4) + Harrison Peak 08/18/2018

    Hi Jason I seem to inadvertently keep trying, but not dead yet!
  13. [TR] Selkirks - High Traverse (III 5.4) + Harrison Peak 08/18/2018

    Nice TR! More fun to be had going either direction from Roothan to Harrison. But gotta say the Beehive is also a stand out at better logistics..
  14. for sale Scarpa Alien 1.0 size 29

    Thanks. Glad the info inspired and may be helped out some.
  15. New pair of unused Nomics. Still have protectors and hang tags. This is the newest version with hammer and ice picks and a spike on the pommel. The still sell for $300 a piece. $600 for the pair retail. Little late in the season but they just showed up here. $450 including shipping via priority mail in the USA. Pay Pal works best for me via f & f transaction.
  16. Pay It Forward?

    Everyone knows or has been the kid who goes without food or rent money to buy gear/gas for the next climb. He or she is likely young, living on their own or in a single parent home, excited and thrilled everytime just to get out. They may get chopped but they aren't likely to quit. Buddy of mind pointedly reminded me of the old days this morning. Thought crossed my mind over lunch. I have gotten a lot from climbing over the years but never any "free" gear. There are times it would have really helped save a few dollars for things like FOOD or travel expenses:) I and suspect many of you have stuff/gear that we all paid good money for and need or want to get rid of. How about we start a program where anyone over 30 can recommend someone under 25 to get a little "pay if forward". We all donate the gear and shipping to the project and the kid in need? Just match the donation to the need online? I used the age catagories to hopefully get better matches for what I am thinking. Other wise all my buddies would want me to recommend them for free gear:) Most would anyway and lie about their age! Thoughts? PM me if you know of a kid that you think could use some gear and what they need. If I don't have it maybe someone else will?
  17. Didn't find a thread on these. Pardon me if there is one already and feel free to delete this one if so. Old news it seems but new to me. My impression is the new Grivel Twin gate really is the chit deserving one I think. I'm very impressed. Just as easy to use as Haston shows. No magic fingers here just really good design work. Call it a PSA.
  18. My thought originally was it is just Haston's magic fingers as well. It aint, trust me. 2 minutes with one and you'll be just as quick as Hastion appears to be with them. I am not chitting you here. It really is that easy. Was able to pick up a few wire/solid gate samples and been playing with them. Although I thought/wanted the pear solid gate versions. Used the wire/solid combo for a few days. Then today just replaced all my glacier skiing lockers with the wire/solid Twin gate version. Kinda like a Nomic..once ya try it you aren't gonna go back to something less. Here is what I think of them and the impression just keeps getting better/stronger the more I use them. http://coldthistle.blogspot.fr/2014/04/grivel-twin-gate.html I have never, ever liked lockers. Detest them truth be told. And only used them when required, sparingly at that. That is now gonna change. Lots of places I'd like an easy to use and fail safe locker beside the typical. Racking ice screws is a start. But there are others. Bad pro, short q-draws, bolts. List will get longer I suspect once I start looking around. Certainly going to change the profile of my Spartan rack for rock, ice or alpine. If you get some extra security with little weight penalty and virtually no extra hassle, why not?
  19. Trip: Icefield's Parkway - Polar Circus Date: 4/8/2009 Trip Report: Polar Circus '81...the first WI4 pitch low in the gully. Polar Circus, when in safe avi conditions. these days is an easy (WI4/ 4+), classic day climb with an short approach and quick descent. One to go back to again and again. All of these photos but one of Polar Circus were found on Goggle images. Turning the Pencil just below and gaining the avi slope. A short bit of WI4 and a lot of mild ice and gully climbing are below this. Spectacular position! The avi slope goes up and out to the right and then back left into the upper bowl above on an almost level traverse. That final level traverse back into the basin and the upper tiers can be really scary because of the sun exposure. Get there early! The last four pitches of the climb (with a long rope) and generally the only thing people rope up for these days. In early Jan of '75 the first ascent party had climbed 14 roped pitches of ice and taken 8 days up and down. Water fall climbing was fairly new and nothing this long or this cold had been done before. Charlie Porter, the Burgess Twins and Bugs McKeith were some of the most accomplished climbers of their generation at the time. The Ribbon pitch below. You are looking at three of the last four pitches in this picture. The fourth pitch is just out of the picture covered by tree/shrub topped ridge. You go over this ridge as you zag back across the top of the avi slope above the Pencil. The first pitch you see here is the Ribbon pitch. Parts of the the last two pitches are shown here on the last tier. Gear Notes: These days all the rap anchors up high (above the Pencil) are fixed chains or pins and tat. You will rap straight over the Pencil so becareful there of you or your rope knocking anything down. 70m ropes are really much easier but 60m ropes will work as well. Take some tat for V threads for the Ribbon pitch and lower in the gully if you want to avoid any extra uphill walking at day's end. Be really careful on the avi slop above the Pencil...it has been fatal. Avi danger in particular on this route can be horrible with a huge slide coming out of the upper bowl at the top of the climb. Nothing would survive if you were any where below the final tier when that happens. A dozen screws should be pleanty for anyone capable of finishing the climb. Plan on anywhere from 5 to 3 roped pitches depending on the length of your rope and a lot of easy ice either soloed or climbed together. A early start will get you off before the south facing avi slopes heat up. Or better yet do it on a snowy, cloudy and cold day. You can avoid the avy danger and soft, rotten ice on the crux pitch if you do without the sun. Don't forget 3 or 4 long screws just for that rotten ice late in the day. 8 or 9 hrs round trip, car to car, these days is a reasonable time with good ice and snow conditions. A hook fest on hammered out ice will make it quicker. A lot of snow to break trail through or really cold, new ice will make it a slightly longer day. Approach Notes: On a good day 10 minutes up a boot packed trail from the road. Cowboy-up and start on the first easy ice available instead of walking up the snow slope to the left and beginning of the first WI4 pitch.
  20. here ya go.. have fun! http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/polar-circus-route-description-photo.html
  21. And I am willing to pay your for it plus shipping http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2014/01/looking-for-ice-axe-parts-and-pieces.html thanks!
  22. La Sportiva Batura 2.0, size 45 - $400. New unworn Dynafit ONE size 28 - $350.. little use, very clean Zamberlan 6000 Eiger 45 - $300 new unworn TLT5 Performace 29.5 - like new $450 Plus what ever actual shipping is via US mail
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