tradclimbguy

I am greatly saddened to hear about this. My heart goes out to his wife an family. You will be missed man.

Jesus Christ! It's just a F$#@%ing bolt at a crag. Nobody did the direct start anyway. And for the three of you that did on crappy gear in a crack that didn't really exist before it got cleaned... Good for you. Over the last month I've seen nearly 20 teams on the newly cleaned climb and it's GREAT!!! Before that you rarely saw anyone do Tatoosh with the tree and scary boulders at the top. Thank You for the clean up. Heck even I "question" the bolt but it is realy new direct start in it's cleaned state and I just keep remembering how Index is still just a crag and not some pristine mountain wilderness area. Be glad when people clean routes up or at least go climb Tatoosh and post pics of your hardman status as you climb past the bolt...

The back edge of the reverso's wears thin into a ridge. I've got one right now that is sharpening to a nice edge. Gonna have to retire it and get another one pretty soon.

Yeah, how about a heads up to the route itself... Then maybe we can check and replace those bolts and others put in by the same person in case a whole set is bad for some reason. Good to know on the crag though. Thanks. As for "bolts" in general I don't think you should ever trust any single bolt. I mean you don't worry about it on lead but you should always use both bolts at anchor type situations or even back them up if the seem suspect. I've hand pulled a bolt on lead before. Just popped it back in and clipped it anyway

Whartley's Revenge at Smith. Only one I can see hasn't been mentioned that I can think of.

I found and bought one about 6yrs ago for the hell of it. Turned to be a piece of crap, which is kind of what I thought it would be but it looked too cool. My buddy took a fall on it first day out and really put a notch right in the two little hooks forming the top clip. Sure didn't seem like something anybody would want after that not to mention if you grabbed the top part it would unclip the draw! I've since stripped the biner and the rest of the draw sits in the bottom of my excess gear bin.

I'd agree that the angle on them seems to be too shallow. I only have about four on my rack, although they were all finders up at Index over the last handful of years. I still bring and lead on them depending on the route. They go on my odd nut rack of micro's and offsets for when you need something like that.

Whats up with all this gear anchor stuff... Me, I just stick to the bolted stuff and the Pakistani death anchor. Works for me. Learning to quickly set 3 bomber pieces then equalizing them to a single power point with the rope or a cordalette is key. Keep working on it and stay safe.

This seems like a good thread to spew about all the FFA's I got out there this year already. I mean when major holds come off the next first send gets another FFA right? Vantage Rocks... I mean Vantage "is crumbly" Rocks. As for names chucK, I just denote them by blanket rating the whole crag. No need with names or numbers I just know them as 5.9 or 5.10 somethings...

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alex-honnold-solo-moonlight

The title of this thread explains it all. There is a better thread on it over at SuperTopo. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=570480

All I gots is spray. Unless you want me to forward on some emails to work on...

Bump Bump! This is going to be a great event! Great weather, beer, climbers and prizes. You couldn't ask for more! Make sure to come on down.

I thought the Durrance route was currently closed. You should definitely check that out before going there. The main pillar shifted and they've been worried it's going to eventually fall over. We did it a few years ago though and it was fun, not the best route in the world but something to do for the location and the feature. We had a team of three though so the second trailed the line that the third climbed on. There really aren't that many difficult chimneys on the pitch. As for hauling a second rope there are a number of options. You could either pack up the 8mm into a small pack that you carry and make the second deal with it. If you have big chimneys and a big bag you can hang it from your belay loop below you as you climb the chimney as a way to get it out of your hair. Another option would be to just lead on double lines and yet another option would be to simply have the leader trail the line with them. All good options and all options you should probably try out over time to know what works for you, how much rope clustering each involves and which you'd keep using for different routes you may get on in he future.

Dry yet?... No it's totally wet. Don't go. We haven't had any good days unless you include the multiple sunny dry awesome days we've had starting back in February I think I'm up to 7 good days in the sun and another 8 rainy aid days. And I'm an office slouch stuck behind a computer most of the time. I'm sure there are people with 30 or more days out there already in the warm sun on dry rock. Yesterday, today and tomorrow all look good. Now all I need to do is shed he job and I'll be golden.