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eric8

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About eric8

  • Rank
    old hand

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  • Occupation
    oh
  • Location
    uw
  1. Routes You Don't Onsight

    Agreed, the pressure chamber is a harder onsight and it is a letter grade easier. Also, Sloe Children, how many 10+/11- climbers onsight that one?
  2. Routes You Don't Onsight

    100% agree with Newest Industries Most of the right side of the country is hard to onsight. Phone Calls from the Dead absolutely flailed on the onsight. Pulled the rope and hiked it... Chimp Dip at Squamish was consistently onsighting that grade at squamish when I tried it. Massive flail session on the start
  3. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    1 Beckey Chouinard Grand wall with cruel shoes start and chimneys finish Sunshine crack (bugs) supercouloir (mont blanc du tacul) Bear DNB 2. Rostrum Astroman Passenger Freeway Something on the Diamond 3. Thin Redline Salathe (free) Highway 61 Town Crier (free) Pimpsqueak
  4. Moves

    The reach to the good horizontal hold after the dihedral on natural log cabin the crux back smearing move and the thin crack top out of terminal preppie
  5. best hard sport routes near seattle

    where is doctor flash amazing when you need him?
  6. best hard sport routes near seattle

    what do you consider to be close enough to Seattle? At index there is 12 gauge IQ which climbs more like your typical sport route than your typical index route and the fifth force which doesn't Equonix, Newhalem and nason ridge are all worth checking out.
  7. West Face NEWS rappel route

    It is not clear to me why this rappel route is necessary and it makes me question it's validity (see Sol's response). Adding bolts to save a tree is one thing, that is not the case here. It seems all of the spires have established descents and none of them have a high level of objective hazard for the range and style of climbing, heck this descent adds two rappels. It wouldn't be appropriate to add a rappel line down the east face of liberty bell because I don't like walking down the scree gulley currently used on the descent. I realize this is sort of a no good deed goes unpunished thing but the work Kurt Hicks is doing to upgrade old hardware up there seems like a much better use of a drill.
  8. Mercy Me to the Split Pillar

    oh, and the sword is classic and low in the grade with good gear...
  9. Mercy Me to the Split Pillar

    The last 10d pitch of cruel shoes is essentially a thin face sport pitch with closely spaced bolts. Pitch 3 is similar in character to the traverse from mercy me to the split, maybe slightly harder but I remember the gear being pretty good.
  10. nice photos, fyi you can avoid the 11b section by climbing higher in the chimney before traversing out right, you will get to a flake that allows you to traverse out right and rejoin the route above the 11b part. That makes this pitch 10c, still the crux for me though as it is harder than pitch 3 imo.
  11. The inner walls at index get all day shade and are good climbing on hot days. Earwax wall is okay too. The no name crag is good on a hot day. Maybe you have to hike or bike if the road is gated? Equinox has one very good 11+ maybe more I was only there once, the 12- routes seem to be more endurance than power so those are good to work.
  12. This is interesting...

    A friend of mine has onsited a couple of squamish 5.11 offwidths, most of the 5.11 slabs on the apron, and all the popular multipitch squamish 11's. But I would say his index 5.11 onsite rate is well below 50%...
  13. Unsafe to climb on one double rope?

    I used to occasionally climb on a 8.9mm double rope (but never an 8.5) as a single for alpine climbs. Even took a nice fall on it once, which I would not want to repeat. These days with the ultra skinny single ropes I just don't think it makes any sense. http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/ropes/serenity-8-9mm.html
  14. Boston Basin- the rock is not as good as the stuart range but it has more glacier travel and a lot of rock routes under 5.9. Another option would be the Eldorado glacier area.
  15. Top 33 pitches at Index, sub 5.12?

    Surely the Zipper is in the top 33..
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