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Weekend


fenderfour

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Sunday, went over to Leavenworth:

Started at Castle Rock, did Smut. Finally something other than that damn Fault!

Then did Brass Balls. Wanted to lead that ever since following Adrian the Mad Romanian up it, two decades ago.

My partner wanted to lead something, so he did Jello Tower, South Face.

I still wanted to get a workout so I did Damnation Crack.

 

The second part of the program was to do the climb at the Special Spot, so much discussed here, the Javelin. But there were so many cars parked there we just moved on through! We went up to Secret Dome, where I did two fun slab pitches with great related names: Bulemic Bulges, and Anorexic Edges.

 

Saturday:

Watched Real Madrid win the Spanish league, drank beer.

 

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Relaxing at Leavenworth both days, Bebop Rock Sat and Bathtub Dome Sun. No early starts, no long days. Just getting in another handful of trad leads. Led both pitches of New Fixtures, partner did same.

 

Drank beer by the river. Hit Gustavs. Camped.

 

Note to self, need to find a new place in town for dinner, Gustavs is getting old.

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Interesting .....

 

Spent yesterday cleaning :( Swept the floors (wonder dog is shedding like mad so they need to be swept again, and we've been gone all day :P ) Did some laundry, cleaned the bathroom, took wonder dog for 2 walks, one along 145th NE and she showed serious restraint and didn't even try to chase the cars! Is a very exciting development :) Went to REI and ordered more lenses for my shades :) Been jonesing for those for too damn long :P

 

Today, got up took wonder dog for a walk then loaded her into the car and drove over to Leavenworth with Sprocket and one of our favorite belay slave. Was wonder dog's first hike and first climbing trip :) She was very well behaved too! Of course we went up to Clems Holler (which had folks at it) so we headed up to Retardant Rock and went up Seven Seas, got slightly off route on the 5.8 next door, then did Red Streak (?) to the first anchors, and finished on the 10c portion :noway: I don't think it gets climbed very often. Lichen covered handjams, with liken covered smears, not soo much my favorite thing :tdown: Managed not to pitch :tup: Then up to ta-da-da the Javelin for a try. (My opinion, you might be able to pull the 2 or 3 middle bolts, but the bolt to protect the boulder move off the ground was appreciated, and at the last bolt it would be damn near unprotectable. That, and I think the main crack should only be protected with hexes, Cams behind it seem like a bad bad idea) Fun route though. Then off to whatever the 5.9+ route was downhill from there. Either i'm getting soft or that was fuckin sandbagged :noway: Of course once again, I got off route, and transitioning back on was spooky on lichen again and above to micro cams :tdown: Somehow I never expected to have to pull on a sloping monodoight with marginal feet, and 3 or 4 ft reach to the next good handhold on a 5.9 :P Guess I must be wrong :P Didn't see a soul once we passed Clem's Holler. Oh, and wonder dog doesn't particularly like it when I'm out of site, but seems to be ok, if she has someone reassuring her. Other than that she ate some bees, and dug some holes in the pine needle duff, all in all quite good for her first trip. She is now well and truly passed out :P

 

Good day. A little addrenalin, nothing broken, nice sunshine :tup: :tup:

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Sat-- Got in a lovely 35 mile bike ride(clothed) before the rain and wind came; put the finishing touches on a tile project at our cabin(something about working with tile and mortar and all that feels so good. Maybe it reminds me of rock :confused: ).

 

Sun--Did a 10-mile trailrun near the beach at the Dungeness Spit; clawed my way up a couple spicy routes at the Elwha Wall with k.rose; packed the van for the climbing trip tomorrow...

 

Lebbenwerf, here I comes! :moondance:

 

 

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Friday - Gigged with a keyboard-player/singer who shared housing, toured, recorded, and got in plenty of trouble back in the '70's with folks like Stevie Ray Vaughn, Leon Russell, Van Morrison, etc. He's half Crow and a raging alcoholic, but, damn, he's got chops and mad musical skills. The additions of a good drummer and a talented sax-player made for a fine group and a great time.

 

Saturday - Walked around the property with a couple of beautiful young women (my daughters) checking out the crazy variety of amazingly beautiful wildflowers...the Blue Flag Iris are just starting to bloom at this elevation (7,600'). Kicked up some deer, then later, some elk a quarter mile away.

 

Sunday - Bid adieu to the daughters and installed four sets of entry locksets and deadbolts in some entry doors to be installed in a house at 11,300' elevation in the next few days. Listened to the Ratatat album "Classics" while doing the work in my shop.

 

Edit: Fenderfour, I ate ALL of an Angus hamburger the size of my head (w/bacon) before the gig Friday. In keeping with my Scottish heritage of frugality (and gluttony), I usually don't eat lunch the day of a gig since I eat and drink for free later at the gig.

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Saturday- Simone and I went to cafe and had breakfast, grocery shopped, set some new routes on the bouldering wall while she played with toys in the lawn, then we went for a run walk up a nearby hill with her on my back. Mom was a at conference all weekend so it just me and Simone.

 

Sunday- I got a baby sitter so I could do some mountain biking, took Simone swimming, then hung out and listen to music and baked cheesecake brownies.

 

Good relaxing weekend.

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Saturday:

 

Did First ascents of two routes with David Bloom,one is an amazingly pocketed, slightly overhanging 5.10b. 11 bolts, 90 feet. Ultra classic. :tup:

Also, a pumpy, short .11c where you have to lean/fall over a 3-1/2 foot precipice to grab the starting holds. Amazing bullet sandstone jughandles for the first 30 feet, slightly overhanging. The .11c crux hits after 40 feet of pumpy .10, and the only rest at "The Brain", a limestone-like formation.

 

Sunday: Put up another first ascent. 5.11d, the crux being a 5 foot reach sideways off a potato chip, then matching hands on slopey pockets, paste feet and power-pull for big jug.

 

Just another weekend of spending $200 on route hardware! :crazy:

 

There are still a .12a and .12d waiting for sends. I think I can get the .12a after a rest day. It is 100 feet long, 2 seperate .11+ cruxes, then finishing on an steep headwall on melon shaped jugs. It will be called "Melonoma" if I can hang on to the finishing jugs. Jesus, what a pump.

 

Ta-ta! E

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friday - high school graduation tomfoolery

 

saturday - der leavenworth - peekaboo tower n' ? acres - my introduction to granite slabs - did camirillo brillo - doesn't appear to get climbed much

 

sunday - epic outerspace experience - omfg! swarms of mounties and associated slow-folk - would have been perfect w/o the hordes - ah well. the remorse start was very cool - a nice zen-style traverse - why skip it?

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  • Bailed on Adams
  • Bailed on Hood
  • Read emails from friends bailing on other alpine\ski objectives
  • Went to a Father's Day BBQ hosted by my middle daughter. Much eating ensued
  • Installed an automatic control for my garden watering system
  • Scooped dog poop
  • Vacuumed
  • Ate pizza
  • Did some work
  • Checked weather forecast religiously
  • Posted worthless Spray on cc.com
  • Got email with pictures of Chutefest... felt depressed

 

-r

Edited by RogerJ
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A little gardening and then we missed the nude cyclists but went to Fremont later in the day on Saturday. With all those political action booths, I kept wondering where were Fairweather and KK when you need 'em.

 

I had a nice day in brilliant sun in Leavenworth yesterday and there wasn't even a traffic jam on the way home.

 

Not a bad weekend.

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