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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. An assload of money

    This is something I researched a couple of years ago in an amazing fit of boredom at work. What exactly is an assload of money you ask? I wondered that myself, so I did a little research. All notes of American currency weigh the same. 490 notes = 1 pound A safe working load for a donkey (ass) is 20-25% of it's own body weight. Asses (donkeys) can range in size from 250 pounds for a miniature to 1200 pounds for a French Poitou donkey. That will yield a payload range of 50 pounds for the smallest of the miniatures asses to 300 pounds for the Poitou donkey. So here are our numbers ----------------Min--------Max Payload-------50 lbs----300 lbs Bills-----------$1--------$100 The least amount of money that could be considered an assload would be $24,500. That would be 50 pounds of one dollar bills when loaded on the miniature ass. The most money that could be considered an assload would be $14,700,000. That would be 300 pounds of one hundred dollar bills loaded on a French Poitou ass. Denomination------Min-------------Max Penny----------$145.91---------$875.09 Nickel----------$252.10---------$1,511.95 Dime-----------$1,008.40-------$6,046.50 Quarter--------$995.00---------$5,968.25 $1--------------$24,500---------$147,000 $5--------------$122,500--------$735,000 $10-------------$245,000--------$1,470,000 $20-------------$490,000--------$2,940,000 $50-------------$1,225,000------$7,350,000 $100------------$2,450,000------$14,700,000 Yeah, maybe I do have too much time on my hands. A request was made to determine how much a shitload of money would be. Hmmm... Let's see: all living things produce waste, even microscopic organisms, so we must assume that the smallest load o' shite would be $0.00. We would then look at the largest animal in the world, the blue whale to figure out how much the largest shitload could be. Are you ready for this? The blue whale digests about 8 tons of food per day. That means that the largest amount of money to be considered a shitload would be 8 tons of Benjamins, or roughly $784,000,000 I'm always trying to push the limits of economic science...
  2. Best Vehicle setup for Alpinism?

    I'm not sure I would recommend an Element for towing. I've got a 2011. It's a fat bastard with a relatively small engine. Things go slow with a full load of friends driving over mountain passes. I'm not sure if I would also ask it to pull even a small trailer (caravan).
  3. I saw a poster in Cap Hill yesterday and I thought I would spread the word: http://squamishfestival.com/ I'm not shilling, just warning the community about the shitshow Squamish will be that weekend.
  4. Size 14-15 Intuition Liners

    Hey you big-footed sonofabitch. I've got a pair of short intuition liners size 14/15 that you can have for free. These are made for plastic mountaineering boots, and are not tall enough for ski or snowboard boots. Pickup in Seattle Central District only. They are in great shape. I formed them, used them on one climb and didn't like them at all. That was about 5 years ago. They have lived in the closet ever since. You can reform them yourself using your own oven if you are careful. Check for videos on Youtube.
  5. Size 14-15 Intuition Liners

    and gone!
  6. golden arch - index

    Generally, yes. It only takes one local pissing off the top to make the Waterway Route a waterway.
  7. Shuksan Sulphide/SE Rib

    It's easy, just like it always is. There are crevasses along the route. You will have to cross them. I don't recommend soloing the glacier.
  8. golden arch - index

    First pitch of the waterway traverses in from the left and ends on the big ledge to the left of the GA P3 anchor. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and a big hook to climb the pitch clean. You can walk along the ledge to get there. CFF and I removed some 1/4 split shanks and replaced them with 1/2 SS 5 piece bolts. The plan was to rap down to replace the bolts of the first pitch of GA, but it was too hot, we were too lazy, we ran out of beer, etc... The arch pitch doesn't need any hammering. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and brass. The pitch after the arch involves some sketchy hooking on cornflakes stuck to the wall. Have fun with that.
  9. 1st time to squamish, need suggestions

    World's toughest milkman, Smoke Bluffs Connection (due the 5.8 to the left of jabberwocky)
  10. Leavenworth Conditions

    Some of the climbs at the Pearly Gates were dry on Sunday. The far right is very wet. In: Loaves of Fun, No Room for Squares, Cloud 9, and Easy Pickens Out: Celestial Groove (total swamp), Leap of faith, Pearly gates, poison balance, etc...
  11. Seeking US size 15/16 mountaineering boots

    Start trying on 14's. Some are bigger than others. The Lowa Mountain Pro (in 14) fits my size 15's.
  12. I've been using one for about two years now. I don't know what fabric it is, probably the EVent. No overfill, but I only use it in the spring/summer. You hard-assed bastards must like to suffer. It's a good bag. So far, I've paired it with a FF Helios and been toasty down to about freezing while sleeping on snow with a Therm-a-rest prolite 3 3/4 length. I'm 6'3" 215. The bag is snug but I haven't had any unusual problems with compression and cold spots.
  13. How long should wands be?

    I recommend against relying on wands to mark cracks. The cracks don't really care where you put wands and will open up in the most inopportune places and times. I used wands for a number of years. They made me angry, I realized there was a better way.
  14. Carabiner Failure...?

    Stop this microfracture business. That's not how aluminum fails. Aluminum is a ductile material that deform much more readily than it cracks. The cracks that do develop are not hidden. Material failure is a pretty complicated business. A lot more info is needed to even speculate what went wrong. Right now, the only assumption that can be made is that the carabiner broke.
  15. How long should wands be?

    I would get a cheap GPS and use the 5 foot bamboo stick to make a small fort for the neighborhood children. I haven't had issues with reception on Rainer. Once you are on the glacier it's pretty wide open. You can keep it tracking the entire climb so you can retrace, or you can turn it on every few minutes to set a waypoint. Either way, keep it inside your jacket to keep the batteries warm.
  16. kevino's Alpental updates

    I heard about a neat route off I-90 that is a recommended solo: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=609840&confirm_post=12
  17. 2011/12 Washington Ice Conditions

    I was up there with a party on Sunday without floatation. We are stronger than we are smart.
  18. New Grivel Cascade Pick

    I'll take it. Check PM's.
  19. Cleaning at Index

    There is a growing number of people interested in venturing away from the LTW and cleaning some of the forgotten routes at Index. I'd like to keep this thread going so that the larger climbing community can check out what we've been working on, and so that the routes can get some traffic to stay relatively clean. Recently cleaned routes: Private Idaho Battered Sandwich 5.9 (Cleaned by Argus and Fenderfour) Magic Fern 5.9 (Cleaned by Argus and Fenderfour, second pitch is still scruffy) Senior Citizens in Space 5.8 (cleaned by Drepnick) Wet Dream 5.9 (Cleaned by Argus, almost always wet) Peanuts to Serve You 5.9 (Cleaned by Argus and Fenderfour,just up the hill from Private Idaho) Shady Lane Free Range Chook 5.10b (Cleaned by Argus and Fenderfour) Party Line 5.10a (Cleaned by Argus) Chronic Relief 5.9 (Cleaned by S1W) Eso No Se Hace 5.11? (Cleaned by S1W) Rattletale Area Avenging the Goddess Kring (Cleaned by David) Get away from GNS and Godzilla and climb these routes!
  20. Yocum (not for posers)

    I don't always climb Yocum Ridge, but when I do, I use 29 70m ropes.
  21. Darrington climbing - a perspective

    I really like these lines: "If you want to do a climb in such pure style as to leave nothing behind, go for it. Although you might find it hard to get anyone else to repeat it. If you want to put up a climb with bolts every three feet, go for it. Although you might find it hard to get anyone else to respect it." "I'm never going to climb 5.13 the standard back then, let alone 5.15, but maybe I could put up a route that was so good as to earn a sixth " Thanks for sharing your perspective.
  22. WTB Crampons

    I've got some grivel G14's with the monopoint kit and an extra set of front points. look like these with a bit of wear: http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/8-g14. One set of points is in good condition, the other set needs some sharpening. FYI - my set is a little older and does not have the accordion thingy. They do have the yellow anti-bot plates. I'd like $125 + Shipping.
  23. Grivel G14 Crampons FS

    Pair of Grivel G14's for sale. Used, but still lots of life in them. Newmatic binding (I think) which requires heel and toe welts. This set has the long bar which easily fits size 15 boots. Comes with spare set of front points. $125 + Shipping, Paypal preferred Retail - $224 for crampons $42 for points
  24. Grivel G14 Crampons FS

    I got the brand name of the binding wrong, but I think "requires heel and toe welts" is pretty clear. I will see about getting some pics. They are used crampons, which means they are a little rusty in the tight places and might need to be sharpened a little. One set of points is almost new, the other set is definitely used.
  25. How to fix p1-3 of Liberty Crack?

    2x 60m to the ground. 2x what telemarker said. Jugging the roof is a special treat.