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Everything posted by goatboy

  1. [TR] Forbidden Peak - West Ridge 9/25/2017

    Wow -- Cat Scratch really looks "aesthetic," huh? No wonder I've never been up that damn thing. Way to persevere and climb a classic route in shoulder season conditions for sure.
  2. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    July 21-24? If you don't mind sharing, what was your itinerary (i.e. where did you camp each of those 3 nights?) I am having a hard time imagining an itinerary that spends 4 days and 3 nights, so just curious how you broke up the hiking to climbing to camping schedule. Good work on a great climb!
  3. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    I'd like to thank the NCNP Rangers who monitor and post on this site, for a wide variety of things. First, congrats on having a fantastic job doing what we all WISH we could be doing, patrolling, roaming, and climbing the fabulous NCNP. Second, thanks for maintaining a helpful blog which updates us all on current conditions. Third, thanks for working with a vast array of people (some very experienced, some total rookies) and helping them all to encounter and enjoy the remote, rugged Cascade range. Fourth, thanks for working hard to both prevent and respond to incidents that occur in these inhospitable areas. Fifth, thanks for monitoring boards like this and offering helpful comments and links to recent patrols. Finally, thanks for working in service to our federal lands, which have been increasingly endangered thanks to shrinking budgets and terrible federal leadership by the people charged with managing and protecting these resources. Gratitude and respect to the NCNP Climbing Rangers!
  4. Sad news here: http://www.seattletimes.com/life/outdoors/mercer-island-man-believed-dead-after-fall-through-snow-at-aasgard-pass/ This is becoming all-too-familiar this time of year, in that same site.
  5. Fatality on Goat Wall...?

    We have some thread drift going on here. Learning from the incident is one thing, choosing to bash or insult the grieving members of the party (who are college students) fundamentally lacks compassion, and can create reluctance for others to share their experiences and thereby create opportunity for learning. I would remind us to focus on being compassionate to the victims and focused on learning without name-calling.
  6. [TR] Inspiration Peak - East Ridge 8/20/2016

    One of my favorite routes ever in the range! Nice job. You made much better time than we did
  7. Curious how you rope-soloed this, since so much of the route traverses? Did you have a ground anchor that you went back to clean after each pitch, or some other technique?
  8. Death at Aasgard Pass

    parallel thread on same topic http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149154/Possible_Fatality_on_Aasgard_P#Post1149154
  9. Possible Fatality on Aasgard Pass 6/5/2016

    I glissaded into that same waterfall (and was swept under the snowpack and trapped in the freezing water) back in 1998. It was an incredibly humbling experience to go from a warm, sunny glissade to death's frozen door so quickly. I hit my head as I went into the hole and was dazed and somewhat complacent in my initial recognition of the seriousness of the situation. I tried to climb out of the steep wet rock and ice under the snowpack but was unable to do so. After I abandoned my pack (which had filled with 100 pounds of water) I was able to tunnel my way out of the snow, emerging way downslope from the hole I had fallen into, to see my partner peering (and shouting) into the hole upslope. I destroyed my fleece liner gloves clawing my way out of the snowpack. We built an anchor and I went back into the hole again to retrieve my pack, using a fixed line that allowed me to safely descend and climb back out again. It was one of my closest calls in the mountains and the key lessons learned had to do with not glissading carelessly, especially when you can't see the full runout below. It also leads me to warn others about this specific waterfall whenever I have a chance to do so. Condolences to all involved and affected by this incident.
  10. [TR] Liberty Bell - North Face 10/4/2015

    The only route I've done over on that side was the NW Face: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nw-face/107238596 Is this related in any way to what you describe? Hard to tell if you overlapped with this route at all.
  11. Did anything ever come of this project???
  12. Fisher Peak Fatality?

    Climber Dies near Fisher Peak Sedro Woolley, WA – A 46-year old male from Bellingham, WA was killed by rock fall on Sunday, August 9, 2015 in the Fisher Peak area near Easy Pass in North Cascades National Park Service Complex. Other members of his group responded immediately to provide first aid and initiated CPR shortly thereafter. One of the group members quickly descended the route to summon help and contacted an off-duty park ranger who radioed for assistance. Helicopter Express, contracted by the National Park Service, was dispatched with park rescue personnel, who recovered the body. Officials from National Park Service, Skagit County Sheriff’s Office and the Skagit County Coroner’s Office will continue to work together on the incident investigation. Rock falls are a natural and dynamic geologic process. Hikers are encouraged to wear helmets and hike parallel to one another rather than in a line. www.nps.gov My condolences to the survivors.
  13. [TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge 7/2/2015

    Great photos and strategy (high bivy) -- brings back some great memories. I did this route car-to-car many years ago and really enjoyed it for all the reasons mentioned. When we got to the point where a rappel was needed (right before the 5.8 pitch) there were no fixed rap anchors, so we had to leave some gear and a cordellette there. What is the status of that rap, now? I have had three very different experiences on the East Ledges, ranging from positive to terrifying. I think the micro-route finding and the general mindset/comfort you have with the exposure can fundamentally change your experience. It is not to be underestimated by any means.
  14. [TR] Sahale - Sahale Arm 6/27/2015

    I seem to remember that two ropes are useful to rap off of Sahale, can you comment on that?
  15. Good job persevering and adjusting your plans as things changed. Would you do anything differently in the future?
  16. Climb: City of Rocks and Sawtooths-Many Date of Climb: 5/28/2005 Trip Report: Quick TR: Injured self climbing at Spring Mountain. Drove to Idaho anyway and climbed a little, and took a LOT of pictures. Here are a few: More info to come later . . . Approach Notes: 10 hours from Portland to Stanley, Idaho
  17. Climb: Castleton Tower - LIGHTING! -Kor-Ingalls Date of Climb: 10/17/2004 Trip Report: I got my ass kicked on Castleton Tower yesterday! After slogging up the big scree trail to the base of the Tower yesterday, we arrived to find a party of two leading the first pitch. The wind was absolutely HOWLING and we put on all our clothes for what looked to be a long day. We were a party of three. I was thrutching through the chimney on pitch one when BOOM - thunder rumbles from the approaching black clouds and sheets of rain coming our way across the valley. We rig ropes and begin to retreat. Within minutes, it's driving rain, sideways hail, and lightning crashing down on the valley floor and slopes leading up to the tower. We are terrified. We race downhill in the pelting hail as lightning continues to crash around us. Eventually, within 15 minutes, all is calm again. The other party has also retreated, without incident. We were VERY lucky -- that spire is a lightning rod and I can't believe it didn't turn out worse than it did . . . Exciting day, good to be alive! I actually kind of enjoyed the whole thing -- how many hundreds of people a year climb the Kor-Ingalls -- and while I could have been one of them, this story will somehow stay with me longer and be more of a learning experience for me. Good to be here! Gear Notes: Needed better raingear Approach Notes: hail pellets on trail!
  18. Climb: South Early Winter Spire-SW Couloir and South Arete Date of Climb: 4/29/2004 Trip Report: Got up bright and early last Thursday and drove up to WA Pass drinking coffee, pre dawn. The early start really paid off in lovely sunrise light and crunchy, firm snow to walk on. Parked at hairpin and booted up Spire Gully, pausing for this photo at the top: Next, we traversed over to the base of the SW Couloir and it was still very firm, requiring several kicks to make a small platform for each step. Could have used crampons at this point, but chose not to. Started climbing the Couloir and easily moved past the big chockstone at the bottom, which poses more of an obstacle later when the couloir melts out a bit more. Conditions in the couloir were excellent: Soon, we were in the upper couloir and passing through several sections of rock -- fortunately, the loose scree was all frozen in place, and it was very easy to simply scramble over it all. The climbing at this point is more "interesting," but pretty easy and fun. Here, too, the snow changed into short sections of alpine ice, snow, intermittent frozen scree, ice, snow again . . . and so forth. All too soon, the couloir terminates just below the summit, where a magnificent cornice overhangs the east face: Above this point, it is an easy 5.0 rock move or two to gain the summit: Views from the summit were awesome. I may be able to post more photos later. We descended the S Arete, which was surprisingly snow-free for this early in the year. There were short, patchy sections of snow on some ledges, but nothing steep or sustained at all. Used rope to rappel the very bottom two pitches (the chimney and the first pitch off the ground). Standing/sitting glissaded all the way down spire gully. Summary: What a nice little route. It's too short, but still excellent and fun. Descending the S Arete makes for a fun alpine outing. Beautiful day with good people in a fantastic part of the range. Gear Notes: 1 Ice ax, 2 maybe useful but not necessary 1 skinny rope for rappels Crampons not needed, but could have been useful ski poles for approach Skis (optional) for descent Approach Notes: Snow and big steps kicked all the way from Hairpin to top of Spire Gully
  19. [TR] Wa Pass - Liberty Traverse 2.0 8/23/2014

    This is a really extraordinary accomplishment. I have climbed 9 of those 10 routes (all but Overexposure) but it took me years to do it. I can't imagine doing them all in a day. Great work! Jesus. Kids these days!
  20. WAC Intermediate Course

    The WAC is a great organization with a solid commitment to safety, adventure, and fun. I recommend them highly if you want to meet partners to get out with.
  21. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    1) Have climbed. Torment-Forbidden Traverse, from high camp in Boston Basin North Ridge of Forbidden, with a bivy North Ridge of Stuart, car-to-car Triple Couloirs, Dragontail Northeast Face "Ice Shield", Mt Fury -- carryover from Luna Lake N Face, Buckner 2) Capable of but have not climbed. North Ridge of Baker North Face of Maude North Face of Shuksan NE Ridge, Bugaboo Spire Kautz Glacier, Mt Rainier SW Ridge, Mt Aspiring, Southern Alps 3) Admire but will never climb. NW Face, Forbidden Peak North Face, Bear Mountain Johannesburg West Ridge, Eldorado Peak Nooksack Tower
  22. JDT -- much appreciated -- helpful comments. I have done it a few times as well and I think the choices you make at the beginning fundamentally set you up for a cruise, or a very stressful, loose traverse. In any case, you need to be willing to deal with grassy, downward-sloping ledges with huge exposure. It's never hard, but it's psychologically harder depending on the route you take. Thanks for the great report.
  23. Two comments and a question. First, exceptional job -- great climbing, great photos, great trip report! Second, I believe that on Day 2 you climbed the Quien Sabe Glacier, not the Sahale Glacier. Question: When you say you picked out the easiest / best route on the East Ledges, I'd love to hear more. I have done it 3 times, 3 different ways, and had very different experiences each time, ranging from mellow to horrific. Please share any details you remember that might help others, or at least me, next time!
  24. The Googles advises us as follows: http://www.nps.gov/noca/blogs/Boston-Basin-Conditions-July-7-2014.htm
  25. When you say you climbed the "first gully": Did you climb the couloir with the small, single snowpatch in it -- or the couloir on the right with the long, diagonal snow?