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Posted

There is a certain joy to placing gear and leaveing no trace, but where is the grace of movement and that getting all barked up :tdown: hands and ankles( now that it is hard to find a high top climbing shoe)just sucks

I have got'n sooo spoiled sport climbing reach up pull down, quick fix, no hang'n belays, no pins or hammer.

I am sooo soft I dont even bleed anymore when I climb.

Flick my bic ( we need a FLAME icon) :brew:

Disclamer: you have just been trolled :mistat:

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Posted

BTW Bill Robbins used mass amounts of tape and had tape'n down to a science,he was a crack master.I don't think anyone will say he didn't have Technique.

I use tape on my soft girly hands when I crack climb, most of the time and sometimes on an offwidth I will even tape my soft girly ankles.

 

Posted

I use tape in cracks about 20% of the time.

Jim Bridwell uses tape. He's tougher than anyone on this board.

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As for the technique arguement, try a roof crack that has deadpoints between off hand jams on quartz crystals. Your hands are gonna get royally trashed without tape no matter how good your technique is.

Posted

i didn't used to tape. but found that if i did i could make better progress following in the .10's that i am not familiare with. some how the tape made me feel more invincible and made it so i was more willing to hang off my balled up little hand crammed into a crack. i dont tape at the collums though.

 

i love crack climbing more than i love anything in the universe except my children. and this summer, i am teaching them to climb the cracks.

Posted

I've never used tape before. My hands do get pretty scraped up, though, so maybe i should look into it. I thought scratched up and bleeding hands were just to be expected in crack climbing and that i was doing everything right.

Posted

Good technique and the correct amount (or more) of strength will make tape unnecessary. If you are strong enough to lock off your jam and not wiggle or twist you won't get scraped up. By allowing you to shift your jam without completely releasing it tape definitely helps. So tape, like sticky rubber and beta are aid.

Posted

if you are climbing hand and smaller cracks, tape is a comfort deal...not necessary and promotes a "hand slide until it sticks" approach rather than placing your jams...its not aid, it just allows sloppy technique...

 

If you are climbing with decent technique, you should be able to climb 5.10 cracks and under with absolutely no scrapes...

Posted
Good technique and the correct amount (or more) of strength will make tape unnecessary. If you are strong enough to lock off your jam and not wiggle or twist you won't get scraped up. By allowing you to shift your jam without completely releasing it tape definitely helps. So tape, like sticky rubber and beta are aid.

strength ain't got a lot to do with it...

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