Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Kevin_Matlock

Draw without a sling... good idea?

Recommended Posts

Saw this on another cc.com post. Don't want to nark someone out, but what do others think? Is this a normal, acceptable practice?

I myself haven't seen it before and don't know if I should be scared or inspired.

Just wondering....

5thPitch.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rappelling is still the #1 cause of death in rock climbing, not clipping bolts. Improvisation works, I think that the picture shows this.

 

I ask myself this before placing gear/trusting fp's/bolts: Am I comfortable trusting my life and my partner's life with this pro.? If the answer is "yes," then proceed. If its "no" then back it up or retreat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If there is a locker on one of those biners (perhaps the one on the bolt?) then it should be fine.

 

Clipping two non-locking biners together is inviting them to unclip from each other in a fall. Bad news. hellno3d.gif

 

Why not just clip the locker to the bolt and run the rope through that?

 

Also, check out the unclipped bolt 6 feet back! wazzup.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

using only 1 biner on a bolt will cause the rope to trap, or pin the biner against rope when weighted. this IS a bad idea.

also, skipping bolts on a bolt ladder aint no big thang...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at the guys shoes and the fact he appears to be standing in aiders, that pitch was probably done on aid. The 2 biner system is common on aid. The leader probably back cleaned the empty bolt.

Edited by David_Parker

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know why having a locker on one of those biners would make that set up any more bomber. Chaining two biners together risks them becoming unchained if they are twisted--the only way to prevent this is to have them both as lockers.

 

But the guy is aiding and its an acceptable risk to chain biners that way. Backcleaning is also an acceptable risk. Pretty clean fall if something went wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old school...works in a pinch when gear short. Lots of bolts behind...a short leadout from the double biners...and a clean fall if there's pilot error.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 biner sometime comes into play on sport projects- others have bailed and you get to it and simply clip- you are pumped silly.

1 locking biner is also used on 1 pitch death style routes where inches seperate you from a grounder. I'm talkin' routes where you might have 2 belayers and they run or jump backwards when you whip.

____

What's up with all the British and UK "headpointers" and the dozens of crash pads below?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
There is absolutely nothing wrong with this practice...

 

In the situation shown, where the rope is running straight it makes perfectly good sense. Slings will straighten the run of the rope where the route turns corners, but here a sling will do nothing about that.

 

IMHO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'd think by reading this website sometimes that people never fucking look at a climbing magazine or actually read a BOOK about climbing, much less climb themselves. Fucking get a clue.

Edited by E-rock

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×