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Draw without a sling... good idea?


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Rappelling is still the #1 cause of death in rock climbing, not clipping bolts. Improvisation works, I think that the picture shows this.


I ask myself this before placing gear/trusting fp's/bolts: Am I comfortable trusting my life and my partner's life with this pro.? If the answer is "yes," then proceed. If its "no" then back it up or retreat.

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If there is a locker on one of those biners (perhaps the one on the bolt?) then it should be fine.


Clipping two non-locking biners together is inviting them to unclip from each other in a fall. Bad news. hellno3d.gif


Why not just clip the locker to the bolt and run the rope through that?


Also, check out the unclipped bolt 6 feet back! wazzup.gif

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I don't know why having a locker on one of those biners would make that set up any more bomber. Chaining two biners together risks them becoming unchained if they are twisted--the only way to prevent this is to have them both as lockers.


But the guy is aiding and its an acceptable risk to chain biners that way. Backcleaning is also an acceptable risk. Pretty clean fall if something went wrong.

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1 biner sometime comes into play on sport projects- others have bailed and you get to it and simply clip- you are pumped silly.

1 locking biner is also used on 1 pitch death style routes where inches seperate you from a grounder. I'm talkin' routes where you might have 2 belayers and they run or jump backwards when you whip.


What's up with all the British and UK "headpointers" and the dozens of crash pads below?

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