Draw without a sling... good idea?

[Kevin_Matlock]

Saw this on another cc.com post. Don't want to nark someone out, but what do others think? Is this a normal, acceptable practice?

I myself haven't seen it before and don't know if I should be scared or inspired.

Just wondering....

[DPS]

Its old school, been done for years.

[Stefan]

It has happened to me....when I have run out of slings.

[lancegranite]

You really start having fun when wired nuts become quickdraws...

[yakimuchacho]

Rappelling is still the #1 cause of death in rock climbing, not clipping bolts. Improvisation works, I think that the picture shows this.

 

I ask myself this before placing gear/trusting fp's/bolts: Am I comfortable trusting my life and my partner's life with this pro.? If the answer is "yes," then proceed. If its "no" then back it up or retreat.

[tomtom]

Oh the joys of aid climbing ... .

 

After standing on hooks, chained biners look pretty bomber.

 

[Rad]

If there is a locker on one of those biners (perhaps the one on the bolt?) then it should be fine.

 

Clipping two non-locking biners together is inviting them to unclip from each other in a fall. Bad news.

 

Why not just clip the locker to the bolt and run the rope through that?

 

Also, check out the unclipped bolt 6 feet back!

[backcountrydog]

while it may not be 'ideal'...2 biners as a draw while aiding works just fine.

[backcountrydog]

using only 1 biner on a bolt will cause the rope to trap, or pin the biner against rope when weighted. this IS a bad idea.

also, skipping bolts on a bolt ladder aint no big thang...

[David_Parker]

Looking at the guys shoes and the fact he appears to be standing in aiders, that pitch was probably done on aid. The 2 biner system is common on aid. The leader probably back cleaned the empty bolt.

Edited December 16, 2004 by David_Parker

[rbw1966]

I don't know why having a locker on one of those biners would make that set up any more bomber. Chaining two biners together risks them becoming unchained if they are twisted--the only way to prevent this is to have them both as lockers.

 

But the guy is aiding and its an acceptable risk to chain biners that way. Backcleaning is also an acceptable risk. Pretty clean fall if something went wrong.

[treknclime]

Old school...works in a pinch when gear short. Lots of bolts behind...a short leadout from the double biners...and a clean fall if there's pilot error.

[DirtyHarry]

Definitly cool. Euro Wolfgang Gullich style.

[Jens]

1 biner sometime comes into play on sport projects- others have bailed and you get to it and simply clip- you are pumped silly.

1 locking biner is also used on 1 pitch death style routes where inches seperate you from a grounder. I'm talkin' routes where you might have 2 belayers and they run or jump backwards when you whip.

____

What's up with all the British and UK "headpointers" and the dozens of crash pads below?

[JosephH]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this practice...

[Ed_Seedhouse]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this practice...

 

In the situation shown, where the rope is running straight it makes perfectly good sense. Slings will straighten the run of the rope where the route turns corners, but here a sling will do nothing about that.

 

IMHO

[E-rock]

You'd think by reading this website sometimes that people never fucking look at a climbing magazine or actually read a BOOK about climbing, much less climb themselves. Fucking get a clue.

Edited December 19, 2004 by E-rock

[Squid]

Everybody starts somewhere, E-rock.