Justin_RR Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 Title Says it all. I'm builidng my rack and going for a load of hexes. Their weights are comparable, but their dimensions are a bit different, and I was wondering if folks found that made a difference in how versatile they were, or in how easily they place or hold a fall. Plus, Metolius offers that new curved design which they claim helps the hexes seat themselves while also making them easier to place over irregularities. Is that just marketing BS? Does any of this really matter at all?!? Quote
Kevin_Ristau Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 No experience with the Metolius curved hexes, but their curved nuts seem to be very hard to remove, and tricky to place. Most people I know that have tried them seem to stick with straighter sided nuts. Quote
lummox Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 i like metolius curvy one a lot better. they are like giant bd stoppers. which is weird. wtf? i cant explain. Quote
Collin Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 Climb with someone who has a good range of gear/rack and see what you like. Down the road the clutter/weight on your harness can add up "Hexs". Quote
John Frieh Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 i like metolius curvy one a lot better. they are like giant bd stoppers. which is weird. wtf? i cant explain. A second vote for curves... they are literally big BD stoppers... same curvature. Do get BD hex # 11 as Metolius doesn't make one that big and # 11 corresponds to 3.5 camalot. If you do get BD Hexs get the unslung ones and sling them super long so that you don't have to carry as many draws in the alpine. If you want I would be willing to loan you mine for a test run (I'm in PDX also)... pm me. Quote
genepires Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 I own a set of old BD hexes and like them. I got a free met curved hex that seemed to be too much of a bitch to get out for someone to bother with. I had to hammer it with my little pika nuthammer to get it out. Now this hex was only 6 feet off the ground on R&D route so I doubt anyone fell on it. It was just a bitch to get out once "set" . Seems like due to the curved geometry it might be real easy to set this curved hex hard and not be able to get it out. I have never had this problem with the regular hexes. I guess they usually fall out instead of getting stuck. Quote
wdietsch Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 Neither ... I suggest also taking a look at Wild Country Rockcentric's as well .... size to size, lighter and stronger than both BD and Met down side is they only start at a size #3 which is about a BD/Met size 5 available on sewn dyneema slings or wire Quote
Dru Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 No one ever places small hexes anyway that is what nuts are for. I agree the WC Rockcentrics are the superior design. Quote
iain Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 Beware of the smaller wired BD hexes. Some weigh in with a 6kN rating (#3 for example). Hardly what you want for lead climbing, and they weigh the same as nuts. Silly little things! The bigger BD hexes are nice for picketesque type climbing as they are exceedingly light. I think the #11 cowbell was placed about 8 times on a scamper up the N. Buttress of Fury this summer. Better than dragging up the costalots, and no big deal if you lose it. It is nice to sling your own with some quality cord. Quote
tomtom Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 No one ever places small hexes anyway that is what nuts are for. No one ever places large nuts anyway that is what small hexes are for. Much lighter. Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 Nuts to size 11, hexes from size 4 or 5 up. Quote
iain Posted November 24, 2004 Posted November 24, 2004 whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 25, 2004 Posted November 25, 2004 whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls. Might want to bring a few to the gym for good measure, while you're at it. Just, you know, so people know that you're one of those rock climbers. Quote
bDubyaH Posted November 25, 2004 Posted November 25, 2004 Does any of this really matter at all?!? no. buy some. go climb. have fun. Quote
shapp Posted November 29, 2004 Posted November 29, 2004 Buy either of the three, climb for a while, get really good at crack climbing, start climbing hard enough cracks that you don't want to hang out for a long time fiddling in a hex, buy a set of cams, save the hexes because you can't bare to part with old climbing gear, then make your kids learn to climb with only hexes before you let them touch the spendy stuff. Quote
selkirk Posted November 29, 2004 Posted November 29, 2004 Another vote for the Rockcentrics on Dyneema. Lighter, Stronger, and if you pull the sling through and clip both ends they don't sound like cow bells Quote
Nick Posted December 10, 2004 Posted December 10, 2004 Wild Things hexes on Dyneema work best. Lighter, curved shape cams better, sling less prone to wiggle hex out. Quote
bunglehead Posted December 10, 2004 Posted December 10, 2004 whatever you end up getting, be sure to wear the entire rack of them walking from the smith rock parking lot, echoing off the canyon walls. I think I've actually seen that a couple times. Why do some folks gear up at the overlook? Very weird. Quote
Dru Posted December 11, 2004 Posted December 11, 2004 Wild Things hexes on Dyneema work best. Lighter, curved shape cams better, sling less prone to wiggle hex out. wild "things" doesn't make hexes Quote
Blakej Posted December 12, 2004 Posted December 12, 2004 Am I misunderstanding here. I am under the understanding that hexes can be used in parrell sided cracks. The wild country site shows the rockcentrics being placed in positions more like a chock. Can they be used safely like traditional hexes. Quote
Blake Posted December 12, 2004 Posted December 12, 2004 Am I misunderstanding here. I am under the understanding that hexes can be used in parrell sided cracks. The wild country site shows the rockcentrics being placed in positions more like a chock. Can they be used safely like traditional hexes. yes they can, get them. preferably on dyneema. Quote
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