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Blakej

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Everything posted by Blakej

  1. One of my partners left his Camp Ice axe in the Paradise overnight parking lot two days ago. Its silver with a black handle and blue leash. If anyone has it or runs across it I think he has some emotional attachment to the thing. We'll be in seattle till sunday and can drive buy to pick it up if you have it. I'm sure he'll reward you with beer if needs be. Contact Josh @ 360-698-6647
  2. Heres another good link for colorado ice conditions http://www.jackrobertsclimbing.com/icecond.html as was said colorado ice is super fat this year and many new routes are being climbed and rarely forming routes are looking great. Anyone coming out here give me a shout and I'd be glad to get some ice.
  3. brainstorming for ideas I am having trouble deciding how to connect the parka to the pack to provide a good seal. I beleive that by rolling the two togather and then snapping them down with a compatible snap one on the parka one on the pack would be the way to go but I am worried that the snaps with come undone while sleeping or wear out with time. A zipper may work but would be more conversion to my jacket than I want and would still require some type of water proofing. Any suggestions that may work would be welcome.
  4. Ahh interesting advice from all. Taun-taum hmmm. As for some of the questions raised. Conditions on approaches in colorado differ greatly from the brushcrashes of the PNW and even with those my gust held up well except for one haul I used it for up a slab. As for saving money mattp is right I'm not looking for that as much as weight savings and dual functioning gear. I find the experinece much more enjoyable as I cut away little things like useless first aid kits that don't even provide supplies for serious injuries etc. As for where to put the extras that would go in the back..trashbag or in the empty bivy space? I'd have to experiment. I imagine combining this with a simular set up using down jacket and half sleeping bag will allow me to carry more actual climbing gear comfortably with a frameless pack ultimately making everything a little more minimalist. Again thanks for the ideas fabric links etc. Will post pics if I can convince the wife to teach me to use the new sewing maching for pack building.
  5. I've been considering sewing my own pack in a simular style to the golite gust (basically a big sack) but using it as a half bivy combined with my shell jacket. Obviously this will take some thought as to engineering to keep the elements out and fit to accomodate the sleeping bag but considering the weight savings I'd like to try. Has anyone tried a simular combo and have suggestions on best materials/waterproofing methods.
  6. John and Kevin GREAT trip! Man do I ever regret not being able to join you. It seems you guys may have a hard time beating that one knowing your love for a good brush crash topped off with some nice olympic 5th class choss. If you have more pics please send them my way. The e-mail addy is the same.
  7. I was looking at the brothers today and they look like they may have gotten a fair bit of snow since olyrob was up there but thats me comparing views from last week to this week.
  8. wayne you too huh? You should go take a look at the route 7 and 8 on washington. Avys kept me from having a decent look the other day but there may be a ribbon thats climbable I believe up what looks like route 8. Then again with the warm temps it may be a waste of time.
  9. man those are some nice crisp pictures you've got fairweather. What kind of camera/film do you use. Or perhaps your like me and just get lucky some times.
  10. don't know if I'd put it on the cover but that goat picture kicks ass. However he looks a little too happy anything we should know about?
  11. I would definately stay off it till the snow settles better. I watched 3 avys set off when the snow hit the southern aspects of pershings today. Snow hasn't settled very well and is mostly heavy and poorly bonded from what I saw.
  12. I'm not sure the date but the new one is suppose to be out this summer I believe so either wait or maybe try to get the old one discount.
  13. From the looks of them from bremerton they look to have gotten a good dump and if snow conditions are anything like what they were on hurricane ridge this weekend I would wait a few weeks. There were several feet of new snow and a couple weak layers that would make for a hair raising climb. IMHO
  14. So I went out skinning for the first time with my nice new skins and I put a nice 1/2 inch cut in the skin. Any suggestings on how to repair it. I was thinking of using heavy nylon suture material but maybe someone else has a better proven method before I start screwing with it.
  15. very nice. Good to hear there are some rap slings as last I heard you had to tie your rope to the anchor tree at the base and over the bandersnatch and rap the opposite side.
  16. Hey Joshk if your talking to me shoot me a pm I'll be in the Denver area or north or south somewhere so boulder might work for me if your looking for someone to room up with or just climb what ever.
  17. so dont pay and burn the tickets you get. Tell all the groupies to piss off and start your own club with no addmittance fee. note: when they start logging old growth because the lobbies have no money and the forests need money to run dont be upset.
  18. Being unemployed and having spring break starting next week I've gotta get out. If anyones interested I'm up for just about anything. I'd like to get up and do some easy rock in N. Cascades but you'd have to ropegun as I'm not competent with trad. Alpine or craggings good too. PM if interested.
  19. Thanks for the info. Its always more enjoyable to push myself and fail at somthing big than be disappointed that I wasn't challenged.
  20. I am planning on doing my first volcano plus first back country ski trip on Adams. The plan is to do the S chute on a sat and then if we are feeling strong go for the white salmon glacier on sunday. My big concern is that even though my partner has extensive back country experince in the rockies he has no glacier skiing experience. We are both knowledgable of glacier travel but from what I understand glacier ski travel is best practiced by the experienced. So is the white salmon mellow enough that it would be reccommended as a first time glacier ski? If not we will just go for s. spur then s. chute but I'd like to go for the white salmon if it seems feasible.
  21. where are you headed in CO. I'm moving out there this summer and it would be nice to have a climbing contact.
  22. yes but if your only planning on melting water for a one or maybe two day climb your still saving weight cooking not included. I just wonder at what elevation the alcohol stove begins to be significantly effected.
  23. I was wondering if anyone has a good site for the effectiveness of alcohol stove as elevation increases. That or any experience using them at elevation. I've used mine under 7000 fairly effectively to melt snow but I would certainly hesitate to test its ability to work well much higher and in colder temps. Oppinions?
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