Great climbs w/o second ascent

[Blake]

west face of gunsight?

Dan and Forrest are the only ones who have made it to the base thus far. If I remember correctly, they didn't succeed except for the first pitch or two. I know of 4 parties who made an attempt and none successful.

 

Nice going on that one Carl & Jim. That route is getting the best of the alpine repeaters. Give it another couple of years...and a worthy partner.

 

It wasn't just Dan and Forrest who had made it to the base, because there was more than one set of bail gear on P1.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/587517/site_id/1

 

Now a 2nd, 3rd ascent, FFA, plus a couple more failures, all in the last 2 summers.

 

 

 

There are heaps of routes without 2nd ascents!

 

Ignoring all the new routes from the last few years...

 

How about:

 

Flying Buttress on Redoubt

NE Face of Tower Mountain

Central Pillar on Swiss Peak

Yvon Chouinard Route on Cutthroat Peak

South Face of Cathedral (Looks great!?!)

W. Face of South Gunsight

Directissima - E Face of Colonel Foster - Vancouver Island

 

 

[stinkyclimber]

house sized deathblocks.

 

 

Gee i wonder WHY it hasn't had a second ascent.

 

Some routes don't get 2nd ascents because they are too hard.

Some routes don't get 2nds because they aren't worth repeating.

And some routes get a ski descent before getting a 2nd ascent, no? Or did the Whistler boys ski Beautiful Nightmare on Plinth before you guys climbed it?

[Jens]

As has been pointed out by blake Dru and others, their are heaps of unrepeated routes.

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I tried never never crack 12 years ago when I was a skinny big number chasing sport climber and got spanked bad.

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I beleive Yoder and Kevin Busselmeier climbed the N.Nor. Butt on index in the 90's?

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Vanishing point has been climbed several times.

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The south face of Nooksack is big but not that hard. It just has funky glacier travel and lots of steep chossy climbing. It certainly makes anything on the other aspects look like a cakewalk though.

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The Jberg route takes more well balanced skills than Girth Pillar and the technical portions take way longer.

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Wayne and many others on this site have a whole bunch of sick unrepeated routes. As do a number of the BC folks.

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You have to be a frequent waterfall climber and regularlly train on plastic or rock to climb hard alpine in my humble opinion.

-Flame away and spray away!

I'm done reading this thread.

[CascadeClimber]

South Face of Nooksack Tower

Never Never Crack

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Loren & I's Jberg route

 

I hope that you won't take this the wrong way, but from my long-distance arm-chair, it looked like your route had objective hazards on par with "Reality Bath," and that for large stretches of the route anyone attempting to climb it would run the risk of getting pulped by a serac fall.

 

I wasn't there, have never been on the mountain, let alone the route - so am I seriously off base here?

 

Yes, you are off base. We spent about an hour directly under the ice cliffs. 25 minutes was soloing on unprotectable 4th and low 5th slabs. The lower 1/3 of the route, including the technical crux, is fully or partially protected, and the upper 1/3 is not at all threatened.

 

But whatever. If Jens and I turn out to be the only people to ever set foot up there, I'll not complain. It's a wild, untrammeled, beautiful place that requires good fitness and solid all-around mountaineering skills.

 

Peace-

 

L

[JayB]

Thanks for the first-hand perspective.

 

Given that there are plenty of wild, untrammeled, beautiful places that require good fitness and solid all-around mountain skills that don't give the appearance of being threatened by serac-fall at all, or at least less extensively, my sense is that your achievement will not be duplicated by another party any time soon.

 

It's certainly one of the more dramatic and imposing lines anyone's established in the Cascades in the past few years, IMO.

 

Link to original TR to save interested parties some searching.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/494632/fpart/1

 

 

 

 

[CascadeClimber]

Thousands of people spend as much time dorking around every year at the site of the worst mountaineering incident ever in the lower 48.

 

I guess it comes down to perspective and 'herd mentality': Somehow the fact that a hundred people tromp under the seracs of the Ingraham icefall every summer day makes it seem safe. But more than half the times I've come down that suck-ass route (DC) there has been big blocks of fallen serac in that area that weren't there when we went through on the way up.

 

Link to the other CK Route TR

 

L

[pms]

he makes a good point with the DC comparison. looks like a very cool rt. maybe it will become more popular if the glaciers leave

[G-spotter]

house sized deathblocks.

 

 

Gee i wonder WHY it hasn't had a second ascent.

 

Some routes don't get 2nd ascents because they are too hard.

Some routes don't get 2nds because they aren't worth repeating.

And some routes get a ski descent before getting a 2nd ascent, no? Or did the Whistler boys ski Beautiful Nightmare on Plinth before you guys climbed it?

 

The left side of Plinth was skiied 6 months before Fred and I climbed the right side of the face. The two lines are over a kilometer apart at one point, only joining together for the final crux to the summit.

 

Beautiful Nightmare DID get skiied though, 2nd ascent and first ski descent March 31/07.

[JayB]

Thousands of people spend as much time dorking around every year at the site of the worst mountaineering incident ever in the lower 48.

 

I guess it comes down to perspective and 'herd mentality': Somehow the fact that a hundred people tromp under the seracs of the Ingraham icefall every summer day makes it seem safe. But more than half the times I've come down that suck-ass route (DC) there has been big blocks of fallen serac in that area that weren't there when we went through on the way up.

 

Link to the other CK Route TR

 

L

 

I think that you are definitely right, and your perspective as a first hand observer is authoritative IMO.

 

I'm just saying that in the same way that someone who sees a male cross dresser from a couple blocks away will tell you they are looking at a woman, even if they'd come to a different conclusion from a few feet away...most parties are probably going to look across from the parking lot, perceive an unacceptable objective hazard, and climb something else.

 

It also sounds like the pitches down low are stiff enough to act as a fairly stout filter that might weed out a lot of folks who would otherwise find the route appealing.

[Choada_Boy]

Try driving East on SR542 the morning of opening day at Mt. Baker. THAT'S some dangerous shit you don't won't to repeat.

[glassgowkiss]

Collin's route on Chewawa Peak and East Face of Pyramid (Ain't over motherfuckers).

[Blake]

Edited to add: Grade V route on the (NW?) Face of Agnes Peak, and grade V route on the N face of Storm king, featuring ~3,000 vertical feet of climbing. SE Face of Dome Peak.

 

Of course SE Mox peak has not even seen a First Ascent by any route.

[John Frieh]

North Norwegian still has three ropes hanging on it (bleached white) and a green "?" spray painted next to the 8th pitch anchor... additionally some new bolts were added on the some of the lower pitches (though they could also be a variation?) but some of the main haul/fixed anchors were still in need of major replacement so who knows if it is repeated or not? IMO any ascent (2nd/3rd/etc) would be very impressive... just hiking all the shit you need to the base requires some serious gumption... and extra knee cartilage to burn on the way down

 

Speaking of after getting my spanked hard on multiple attempts on 2 Doorish routes to date I would say take his ratings/topos with a grain of salt and think twice before booting up... I noticed a few of his routes on the prior lists in this thread...

 

EDIT: Goat's Beard hasnt seen a 2nd AFAIK... beautiful line

 

Central Butt on Swiss looks cool... I'd love to give it a go with someone

Edited February 28, 2008 by John Frieh

[DRep]

as I said earlier in the thread, I talked to some random dude a long time ago who did the 2nd or 3rd ascent of the North Norwegian.

[scottgg]

How about Dave and Colin's route on Summit Chief's North Face? That route looked great, but I have not heard of anyone getting on it since.... how would one best approach this route in the winter?

[pms]

with running shoes early in the morning when the snow is hard

[dbb]

How about Dave and Colin's route on Summit Chief's North Face? That route looked great, but I have not heard of anyone getting on it since.... how would one best approach this route in the winter?

 

Scott- It would be a easy mountain bike up the road to the old dutch miller gap TH. from there it's a pretty reasonable snowshow up into the basin under the route (4-5 hours with good conditions). email me if you'd like detailed beta

[Kat_Roslyn]

Mike Layton's Mom.

[Choada_Boy]

Mike Layton's Mom.

 

Trade Route.

[G-spotter]

You might find it easy to get on top but you should worry about going down.

[powderhound]

The brush and thorns might be nasty

[TeleRoss]

Central Butt on Swiss looks cool...

 

Isn't that the Pudding Pillar

[sexual_chocolate]

Here's another at Index:

 

Amandla, after Benny G's extension through the roof.

[wayne]

Central Butt on Swiss looks cool...

 

Isn't that the Pudding Pillar

 

One of the pitches was called the Pudding Chimney.