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glassgowkiss

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Everything posted by glassgowkiss

  1. Banks Lake Map of Routes

    OK, here goes. Years and years ago I was at Banks Lake area. At the end of the trip, we spotted these climbs. I honestly don't remember exact location, but they were to the West and I think positioned in East-West, facing North. What are they? guidebook description did not match any of these.
  2. Bridwell's Last Interview

    Absolutely disagree. Good guy? He openly expressed white supremacy views in his later life. Would that make him a "good guy"? I have met him several times in the 90's- both climbing and at the OR trade shows. Not the friendliest of encounters. Ask Allan Kearny about his encounter with Bridwell in Patagonia.
  3. "Intravenous"- someone should do a direct finish For Aint over motherfuckers I can loan warthogs to whoever wants to repeat that rig. Big prize in the range should be NE face of Triumph
  4. Bozeman, MT or Victor/Driggs, ID

    I don't think either place has any quality local rock climbing. Personally I would rather consider Cody area, but probably Mazama could be also a good choice. In any case, something to consider for future is how much snow shoveling for months you want to do if you are in your late 70's or 80's?
  5. Coleman Deming conditions

    Generally there is much more snow this year, compared to the past 4 or 5 seasons, and summer temps so far are mostly below average. A couple of teams went up N ridge, from which you can extrapolate C/D is doable on the way down. On the approach to Forbidden last week, snow was pretty firm, or downright hard in places till about 9 am, and complete slop by the afternoon/evening. With higher altitude I would think this window would extend to 10 or 11, so early start and move fast.
  6. Seeking information - Silver Star W Pk, W face

    Check AAJ, which free, online. Most of FA's would be reported there and probably the most comprehensive source of info.
  7. Seeking information - Silver Star W Pk, W face

    Ask OffWhite. He put up a climb somewhere in a vicinity long time ago.
  8. [TR] Forbidden - East Ridge 07/15/2020

    Great position, views are spectacular, rock not as solid as Bugs, but not bad. I would feel comfortable doing the whole thing with fivetennies approach shoes. For a solid 5.9 climber it will be mostly a scramble, with short sections of climbing. Enjoyed it a lot. Crux were 2 steam crossings, particularly the second one from the bottom.
  9. Trip: Forbidden - East Ridge Trip Date: 07/15/2020 Trip Report: A classic ridge scramble, with about 40 ft of real climbing (on the whole route). There is still a ton of snow, so crampons and ice axe pretty much a must in the morning. East Ledge descent- Raps have good slings, ledges are snow free. Two stream crossings are the crux of the trip. Due to amount of snow, the water volume is still really high. Gear Notes: A small set of stoppers, single set of cams , doubles in finger size (yellow and orange TCU's), one 60m half rope, lots of slings (bring at least 4 double length. Approach Notes: snow is down to tree line in the basin.
  10. Even with a IGC file of exact flight path, I think it would be next to impossible to locate the contraband. Depending on above the ground altitude and wind velocity, it would be extremely difficult to even approximate there they landed. If indeed they were drugs and not cash or other stuff, your best bet would be use of a trained dog/s.
  11. Colfax ice

    I saw some pics from a few days ago, and from a distance a couple of lines look to be forming well. This is perfect time of the year to do them, as they usually get buried by mid winter snow.
  12. Need a new camera

    Panasonic Lumix LX100. Big (MFT) sensor, Leica F1.7 lens. Shoots RAW, has EVF (Sony RX100 does not have EVF, which makes it impossible to shoot in bright conditions). Has actual dials, which allow to shoot with your gloves on. ATM it's the best compact camera on the market. Also there is a thread on the lens, and you can use filters.
  13. Cable Car haters

    Still waiting for the promised article. Judging by the developing time frame I find the initial reports stated by S2S management and repeated by RCMP harder and harder to believe. It simply is not adding up.
  14. Cable Car haters

    99.9% in crimes of this sort there is a motive. What would it be here? First of all, most of explosives used in mining would not be up to task. I would suggest looking at books of S2S corporation. Either they owed money to mob, or they were going under. Shit like that is not random and is not vandalism.
  15. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Still waiting.........
  16. Cable Car haters

    Actually there are specific devices (directional charges), that would do the job quick. However these things are not for sale in your local Canadian Tire. Kind of interesting that almost 1 month after alleged crime, there is still zero evidence presented, zero follow up by RCMP, and no promised article was published so far.
  17. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Still waiting for the article.......I think your credibility is dwindling down by day.
  18. Cable Car haters

    Funny how it all unfolded. Within first 12 hours RCMP repeated unproven statements from GM of S2S about cable being cut, subsequently followed by almost 3 weeks of total blackout or any update. S2S presented zero proof, and the statement was generated before any actual inspection or investigation could take place. Most of experts, who work with cranes or lifts stated, that cutting a 5cm cable with a regular grinder or similar tool, under this level of load could most likely lead to severe injury or even death. There are methods, but it would take a high degree of knowledge and preparation to execute something like this. Hence the theory of "vandalism" would be totally bogus. If indeed a cable was cut, it would take planning and knowledge and it would be a targeted operation, not a couple of drunks thinking it would be fun.
  19. Squamish death toll

    There was a second, fatal accident on the Chief within 6 weeks. Wonder if it's just due to general increase in number of climbers? But having two back to back accidents like this is a bit a new thing. I remember several rescues from the Chief, but mostly for fractures or dislocations/sprains.
  20. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    well, think again. Just during one crankwoks there were 87 bikes reported as stolen in Whistler. Say average cost would be 2.5k, which gives you $215500. That is one week! There was one bait bike sting, and two guys were caught with almost 50 bikes in rented u-haul right outside of Squamish. Why steal cars, when you can make money easier, when stealing high end mtn bikes. My adise- don't bring your mtn bike to Whistler or Squamish for overnight stay.
  21. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Squamish RCMP is a bunch of fucktards. 3 years ago there was a burned van found, with a body in it, and they stated they were investigating that as a crime, but no charges have been filed so far. As the matter of fact, they could not even establish ID of the guy. There are literally hundreds of thousands worth of bikes stolen in Squamish every year. And yet, in last 10 years, there were two prosecutions for bike theft. Yes, that is right- TWO!. So sorry if I am sceptical about whole cable thing,, because looks like to me Squamish RCMP knows two things- jack and shit, and jack left town.
  22. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    How is the investigation going? Pretty weird to have a bunch of shit to say in the first 24 hours, and a complete silence for 7 days after.
  23. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    It was cut- how exactly? Stick to geology, Not saying it was it was not. Calling bullshit on RCMP statements without any proof. Also saying that the person cutting would have to have knowledge and it would take some planning- not an act of vandalism, but rather someone had beef with gondola. I don't think you have even a faintest idea how a cable like this looks like, and what would happen, if you started to use something like a grinder, while sitting on tower.
  24. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Cable like that has strands. In order for this exact sectorial to happen, you would have to cut though at least a couple- completely. The moment you would cut though a single strand , it would start unravelling, while spinning wildly. You can't run away from it, as you would be sitting on a narrow beam of a tower. The only way not to play a russian roulette would be using something like Dioplex. But you would be hard pressed to find it at Canadian Tire. There is a pic of a setup to cut through 50mm rebar. Probably would work on a cable under such tension. There is basically a cold chisel inside, that is impacted by a charge. Shit like this is not random and would not be an act of vandalism. It would take planning, and some pretty good knowledge of were and how.
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