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dylan_taylor

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Everything posted by dylan_taylor

  1. Hey Blake if you want those two ropes of mine you can have them. and I have an extra rap device too, and a few old clunker lockers too. PM me if you want directions to my house and you can have them.
  2. Yeah, no core shots or anything. The main issue with the 60m static and the reason I am retiring it is because the sheath slippage at the end of rappels is getting annoying. I suppose you could cut 20 or so feet of it off though. Hmmm. I say go for it.
  3. Mpaul_hansen and Dane, PM's sent. Yes, The skiing was too good this weekend.
  4. Going skiing tomorrow. Will update again friday afternoon. Hopefully will determine the fate of the x-bows then. Also will re-count available cams. -dt
  5. I am interested. What's the asking price? I need the skins as well. $100 for skis/skins. Skins are older BD purple clipfix skins. I think they have lost a bit of their snazzy out-of-the-box stickyness. I can send pics if you need. -DT
  6. I agree with you. But you should see the harness it replaced...
  7. I have 5 Gal of once-used soybean oil if anyone wants it to make fuel with. Its yours if you come pick it up.
  8. I live in bellingham and would prefer to sell locally. Just updated Feb 4 to get rid of clutter. Dynafit Aero Freeride rando boots - four buckle kind from last year. Used 40+ days last season. Size 28 mondo. $150 obo. 5.10 v-mile rock shoes size 11. Used 4 days. sole is in great condition. $65. La Sportiva vipers (old style - orange). size 40.5. Very used, right shoe should get a resole soon. Make offer for some cheap shoes. La Sportiva Mythos very used - right shoe needs resole - size 41.5. FREE if you come pick them up. BRAND NEW IN BOX black diamond half-dome helmet - bluish color. $40. NEW but in my closet for three years: BIBLER BIVI SACK regular size, green fabric. Still has a tag on it. $125 Black Diamond Arc Angel 190cm Telly skis with older BD cartridge bindings on them. No skins included. Black Diamond 00 (red) and 0 (yellow) C4 camalots (from three or four years ago). Used. $15 each OBO. Old style (U-stem) BD green camalot (0.75). New sling sewn on it at BD. $20 OBO. 2 Smiley 17cm ice screws, (like BD screws but not express). Quite used but still functional. Make offer. 1 Old school grivel 22cm screw - very used but you could bail on it if you wanted, or make yourself a can opener. make offer. 1 used BD 17cm regular (non express) screw. quite used. Make offer. The Old 11mm 60m climbing rope. Good shape. Use it for rugs, towing cars, or whatever dangerous activities you might want for it. Don't sue me if you kill yourself with it though. FREE (but beer would be nice). 60m of 8mm static line. Used a bit for fixing lines, tagging, etc. Sheath is slipping a bit. Good for towing cars, clotheslines, etc. Don't climb on it. FREE Random USB cables for digi cameras, peripherals, etc. Free if you want them. Minidisc player w/a bunch of discs. Free or tell me where I should recycle this ewaste.
  9. updated 1-28 Helmet sold scarpa slippers sold harness given away boots pending
  10. Interesting idea, but I wonder if it could be something else... The higher you go on colfax, the less steep the average slope angle. Perhaps because of this, the upper N face (and small pocket snowfields) get a little more exposure to solar radiation - at least at this time of year. Despite the small size of those snowfields, post-storm accumulations near ridge-top are bound to be both significant and short-lived (do to frequent temperature fluctuations from warm SW flow to cooler NW flow). Topography is a critical parameter in heat flow distribution. One might suggest that even though Colfax lies close to a volcanic center (but still separated by several miles), it - being a topographically significant peak - would dissipate geothermal energy at a greater rate than flat ground - or for that matter, valleys and depressions - therefore causing Colfax (and virtually all other mountains) to have a lower than average geothermal heat flux.
  11. Yep well there it is in a slightly closer view. Looks like potential fun if it fills in better. I can't remember how deep of a groove the ice was coming from where it disappears from view. Looks thin.
  12. Ahhh yes. Thank you. All is in order again...
  13. I am having the opposite problem as some. I can't log out.
  14. Old stuff from my garage - rock bottom prices. Would prefer to sell this stuff locally. I live in Bellingham. If you are not local, let me show this stuff here for a week or two and if it is still available lets work something out. Also, I am willing to negotiate. I will keep updating this list with more stuff as I find it. La Sportiva Nepal extremes - well used. Size 46. Super used, really. The cambrelle lining on the inside of the heel cup is worn out and patched with mole foam currently (see inside photo). Good deal for someone who is willing to work on them or find a cobbler. Leather is still in fine shape, sole is good too. Price: 2 sixpacks of newcastle La Sportiva Mythos - also well used, and they need a resole. Toe is blown out on one shoe. Size 41.5 FREE! if you come and pick them up... Scarpa slippers - size 9.5 i think. Still have some life to them. 1 sixpack of newcastle or close equivilant, or $10 cash. Dynafit TLT 4 pro randonee boots - shell size 29-29.5 (boot sole length 320mm). Heat moldable liners. Removable spoilers. Not exacty the boots you'd ski the gnar with, but super light weight, they climb ice well, and they are fairly comfortable. Well-used. $75 Trango pyramid belay device - not used all that much- i have too much of this kind of junk lying around - $5 Petzl Meteor (old style) helmet - size 2. Used plenty. 1 sixpack of beer. mexican. Old BD alpine bod harness. Size L. You know the risks of buying used gear, right? This has been used on glaciers lots. you can tell. a couple bottles of beer or $5
  15. The chapter on Mountain Geology in recent editions of the FOTH is written by Scott Babcock, and may contain interesting and entertaining information for you Aaron. I am yet another fan of McPhee's writing. His four-book series (annals) on I-80 geology and human interest is fascinating, and was one of the factors that drove me into the field of geology. His short essays are excellent too.
  16. :tup:Nice work guys! Good choice of belay location below pitch 2. Wish I had looked left instead of right. Way to get your money's worth out of it on a nice, stormy friday evening.
  17. Trip: Colfax peak - Cosley/Houston Route Date: 10/30/2007 Trip Report: Well, the ice is in in a few places. Yesterday Kurt and I headed up to Baker and climbed the Cosley/Houston route on Colfax peak. The route is a ton of fun, as stated on past trip reports. Most folks who are reasonably comfortable on ice would probably consider the route to be in good nick right now. We found it a little thin, and we thought that the two crux pillars felt a bit hard and pumpy - but maybe thats because it is only October, and its been a while since any of us led an ice pitch. The route below (on the right). Polish route (on left) is still not touching down: The glacier is in suprisingly good shape for late October. It seems uncommon to have such good coverage up high this time of year while simultaneously having the road open to the trailhead. The wind associated with heavy precip from the recent October storm activity seems to have helped to mechanically harden the snow pack, and to pack snow into the crevasses. Thus bridging is pretty solid right now. However, this is the season for weak crevasse bridges, etc, and Kurt and I roped up with this caution in mind (unlike a few other folks we saw up on the Coleman yesterday). Enjoy the great travel and skiing conditions, but use prudence. Travel conditions were great. No post-holing, good cramponing all the way from the hogsback. We walked, but some folks were on skiis. Not sure what they were up to though, we last saw them trudging up the Roman Wall with 30 minutes of light left... We departed the car at 5:45am, and arrived at the route at about 8:45 or 9:00am. We were on the summit at 3:00pm and back to the car at 6:15pm. We spent a bit of time on the cruxes but otherwise our times seemed average given the conditions. The first pitch is low-angle rambly ice (about 165') and stubby screws were the only ones that worked. The second pitch is the first crux: a hanging curtain that is quite steep right now, as it has a lot more room to grow. It is drippy on the right side. There are a few scary hanging daggers and I regretted my choice of belay location as Kurt liberated copious amounts of ice above. However, there isn't much ice available there, and not much rock pro either. Thankfully, Kurt chose not to send the dangling dagger of death down upon me, and used it as a butt-scum instead, in order to cop a rest. He ended up hauling the pack (hey! its still early season!) in order to fit comfortably in the crux. The ice seemed a bit brittle but at least it will take full length screws. Both of us found the crux pitch short but difficult - Hard to swing when you are trying to half chimney within a few chandeliers. WI4 seems soft for a grade but, like I said, it is still a little early in the season... The 3rd pitch is a 60m ramble up fun, perfect 55-60 degree neve (bring pickets for belays - they are bomber). For rock gear we were only able to use a baby angle, and a #10 and #11 stopper. A pink tricam or yellow TCU could have come in handy but we didn't have them. Here is Kurt climbing with perfect pieds troisième and piolet appui. The fourth pitch was the 2nd crux, and was darned near vertical. It had lots of hollow ice so some of the screw placements sucked. I was pumped stupid by the top of it, and stopping to place 4 or so screws on the ice "boulder problem" didn't do much for my ego either. Maybe Kurt has pics... The fifth and/or 6th pitches are either two 200' rope stretching ramblers, or one bit of moderate angle simu-climbing. Pickets came in handy here. The last 20 feet popped us out into the sunshine, which was a nice reward for repeatedly getting the barfies on all the lower pitches... The views from any summit in the Black Buttes are wicked. The exposure is wild, and whenever I look over at Lincoln I fantasize about having the magical powers to zap it into granite overnight (Even gluing the choss together would be a exciting improvement...) It is also nice to get a new angle of view for Mt Baker. The route will probably get better by the day, until the first sustained snowfall of the season knocks the easy (driving) approach out of shape. And, you really can't beat a 1000-foot ice route with a three hour approach on easy trails, good snow, and no bushwhacking. Enjoy it while it lasts... Gear Notes: 1 60m rope, 8 or so screws depending on fear threshold, two large stoppers, one baby angle, pink tricam, and a nice, warm jacket. Approach Notes: Drive to trailhead. Glacier in good shape, snow in good shape, trail in good shape.
  18. Take the revolvers over the pulleys. They make quite a difference over regular biners as a training session will tell you. If you are a little person with a big partner, you might need actual rescue pulleys, and/or steroids. After teaching dozens of crevasse rescue seminars, I have seen that smaller, lighter folks, often represented by women, often have an incredibly hard time hauling their (heavier) partners out on even a 6:1. Outside help (other people) is often needed to break the static friction and get the victim moving. Moral of the story is hit the rowing machine heavy if your partner is bigger than you, and learn the 6:1 drop loop, and/or 5:1 direct haul. Also, garda hitch works as a great ratchet - disadvantage being higher friction, but advantage being longer haul distance (so once you break loose the static friction you can haul about 30 ft of rope (with only dynamic friction) without stopping. Drop loop systems have way less friction than direct haul systems during practice (and perhaps real life) rescuers often do a poor job of removing snow to create a clean lip (tighter, sharper angle is better than round lip) and a poor job of cleaning snow from beneath the load strand and from beneath the ratchet.
  19. Mkporwit: Thank you guys for the return of the pole. UPS sounds fine. Glad to hear the pole was helpful. I would be interested (as would others, perhaps) on the details of the pulled gear. I would also be curious to know if your cordalette was one or two strands around the "anchor" (a block, horn, etc?) - redundancy with skinny nylon can be a real life saver in those situations. One other word of caution: It was cool to see you guys effectively lowering your partner down the lower LB gully - but use extreme caution when lowering someone with that much rope out: You had close to 400' of line available in your lowering system, and that is bound to knock plenty of rock off (like the grape-fruit sized block that almost took my head off). Considering the angle, shorter lowers or occasional hip-belays may have worked better/kept you guys safer from rockfall. Plenty of wild events and close calls occur during each of our climbing careers that serve to educate us and our peers on what to do differently next time. Hopefully valuable lessons were learned all around on Saturday. I hope all of you enjoyed some beer at the end of that endeavor. It was well-earned. Good luck on all your future climbs and may your friend recover quickly. Cheers, Dylan
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