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Everything posted by Rodchester

  1. Sleeping Bag Decisions

    Regarding dryloft, and other comparative materials, they usually add about 5 degrees to the bag. In otherwords, a 0 degree 700-fill down bag with nylon becomes a -5 degree when a material like dryloft is added.
  2. Teanaway River Road?

    Anyone been up in the Ingals / Stuart area via Ingals Pass by Teanaway River road? With the warm weather, how far can one drive into the trailhead? Anyone with info?
  3. looking for a puffy

    A buddy of mine is looking a for a "puffy" either down or synthetic but prefers down. So generally what are some insulated jackets that you recommend. And specifically, does anyone know of any place with a deal right now? Criteria: fairly light weight and compressible for mostly three season use, cut large as a belay jacket, and as cheap as possible. Thanks in advance
  4. France did good

    You mean the terrorists, or the French?
  5. M-16 rifles

    Mostly correct. The chroming of the barrel was critical to its effectiveness. The 5.56 round of the Vietnam era is no longer in use my the military. The powder behind the round changed mutiple times in the testing phases (early 1960s) and then again once the rifle was fielded to line troops. Another major, yet rarely discussed change, is the revolution ratio of the round. If I recall correctly the older Vietnam era round was a 1/11 ratio. This gave the round the ability to tumble once it hit something, say hitting a man in the arm yet exiting his chest and tearing up bone and flesh in the process. The theroy was that the tumble would make up for what it lacked in knock down power. The problem with this approach is that it would also tumble when it hit a small branch, or most anything. It simply lacked penetration power. Accordingly, its accuruacy in combat was greatly effected. Also, the round itself was not a dumb-dumb styple round designed to seperate on impact, only tumble. The newer round adopted in the mid to late 1980s (Standard NATO Ball) still has the high velocity, but at 1/7 revolutions it is a maximum stabilty round. So, it does not tumble nearly as much as the Vietnam era round and it will not do as much damage. However, it is more accurate (in combat) and it has FAR greater penetration. In fact I workled with FN on upgrading the M249 SAW in 1987 and during which time we tested the 5.56 (SAW) against the 7.62 (M60) ands concluded that the 5.56 actually had better penetration on steel at 200 meters and roughly similar on wood at 200 meters. This really surprised me. The new round when fird from a SAW can be accurate on "area" targets up to 700 meters if I recall correctly. As many here have stated the M16 is a good weapon with a good round. 300 meters really is nothing. Most of the older M16s have been refitted with 1/7 barrels.
  6. Directions to Mailbox pk. trailhead?

    This is NOT a fun or beautiful peak experience. It has little if any worth while views and the trail is steep and not fun. Granted it is a GREAT work out peak, but that is all that it is. Have fun.
  7. Newbie vs. Multipitch Sport - Round One

    To clarify: Do you want to learn multi-pitch trad, or multi-pitch sport? There really is not that much mutli-pitch sport climbing, at least in the PNW. Either way, I wish you luck and have fun!
  8. Raveltik Demon ice axe

    Which one, Czech or Slovakia. They have been two differnt countries for, what? About 15 years now? Two different peoples.
  9. Shoe Bomber Sues Prison

    reid...but I'm not very good at judging how good looking guys are, any chicks or gay male climbers have an opinion?
  10. Rainier Speed Record Broken

    Already been posted....but it still rocks!
  11. Drunk Bear

    Raiiiiiiii....neeeeeer Beer
  12. Lightweight summer bag recommendations

    Whisp Lightweight (21 ozs. ) and very compressible. None of the really lightweight shells used in the newer bags are VERY water resistant, sure they have DWR on them, but nothing like dryloft or something comparable. Those weigh too much to be used on really lightweight bags. Good luck....
  13. [TR] Ingalls- East Ridge 8/8/2004

    Alex: Curious about the general snow conditions up the "approach gully." I have done the route before and plan on taking a fairly new climber up it soon, so I was wondering how much snow is left in the gully? Feel any need for crampons? Ice axe? I think the route is a fun introduction to alpine in a great area , though mostly scrambling. Thanks in advance.....
  14. Has anyone gone rafting? Need some advice

    Call Tim at First Descent . A really good guy running a really god company.
  15. Beginning Ice Tool Reccomendations

    Agree on Shrikes. There is a strong argument on steeper ice using two hammers, because if a tool pops the adze could really do some damage to your head. However, I have one of each.
  16. Does Size Matter?

    Top roped? Wow. I guess you mean that a leader lead it and then belayed each of the 8 followers up? Not that he actually set a huge ass top rope...right? Just imagine what a 400 foot or more "top-rope" would look like.
  17. forged friends, flexcams, or robots?

    shapp: I guess what I'm not getting then is why they would do it in a horizontal crack, but not another crack? Am I misunderstanding you? If its a flexible mono-stem cam, say like BD or Trango, then the type of loading you mention (causing a tweak as you say) would occur whether it is in a horizontal crack or another crack...correct? I'm just trying to understand what the signifigance of the horizontal crack is in this instance. Also, if you took a fall big enough to put enough force on the stem (tweaking it/bending it or whatever) what would the same force do to a Forged Freind in a horizontal crack where one would be using a tied in sling or cord? Just curious.
  18. WTB-55 or 60cm Chouinard/Black Diamond X-15 axe

    I have a 40 cm that I may part with if the price is right. PM me if interested.
  19. forged friends, flexcams, or robots?

    me too young? Oh that's sweet. I've used both. I was merely pointing out to him the fact that a rigid stem requires that one be aware of how it is placed. I think that is something he should be aware of and consider. The older dual stemmed Trangos (which are VERY similar to Robots) can get tweaked as you say. The entire idea of the "flex cam" is that it resists getting bent out of shape or tweaked. This is due to the use of a single stem and the type of material from which the stem is made. By the way, you say tweaked in a horizontal crack fall, are you sure that you mean that they got tweaked in a horizontal crack? That is usually where flexible dual stems excel because each stem is horizontal to the ground and thus the fall. Maybe I am misunderstanding your statement, or maybe I'm just incorrect? Usually they tend to get tweaked when they are at odd angle to the direction of fall and/or ground. This is precisely why Trango (and others) have switched from dual stem to single stem.
  20. forged friends, flexcams, or robots?

    Check this: Cheap Metolious
  21. forged friends, flexcams, or robots?

    They are manufactured at the same factory....in the Czech Republic called Hudy. They are different cams. Just pick up a Robot and a Fleax cam, you'll see huge differences.
  22. forged friends, flexcams, or robots?

    The "walk a lot" on the flex cam applies to the largest two sizes...and I don't think they walk that much. The medium and small sizes don't walk any more than other cams. I've been told that the larger sizes in the latest flex cams are wider, eliminating the walking problem. Don't know that for sure though. The flex cam is a MUCH better cam than the Robot. I have used both, and the robot is not a bad cam, but the flex cams are sooo much better. Keep in mind that the forged friends while certainly time tested design, do NOT have a flexible stem. The stem is RIGID, which limits or at least effects how and where they can be placed. You have to alter the cam slightly to use in horizontal cracks (adding a lsing or cord through the tie off holes in the stem. Not a huge deal, but one thing you'll have to add/learn/get used to. Review of the Forged Friends. Good luck....
  23. cams and nuts

    Check out this thread on cams. Cam thread
  24. WX in Huaraz, Peru

    Been there and loved it. Cool nights, but not freezing or anything. Days can be warm, but my recollection is not humid or anything.