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JayB

Smith Classics

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Haven't climbed at Smith much at all, and want to make the most of my visit there during the rope-up next weekend. What are some of the classics in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)?

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Tuff sucks, gorge is good.

Cruel Sister 10a in the lower gorge, awesome handcrack.

If you must climb tuff-

Spiderman 5.7 3 pitch, good.

Pioneer route Monkey face 5.7+ easy aid.4-6 pitches.

Sunshine dihederal 5.9+.

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Cat Scan - 11a

Magic Light - 11a

Vomit Launch - 11b

Moondance - 11b

Wartley's Revenge - 11b

Blood Shot - 11c

Rawhide - 11d

Reason To Be - 10d

Kunza Corner - 10c

Double Trouble - 10b

Tale of Two Shitties - 10a

Heathen's Highway - 10a

Trezlar - 10a

White Satin - 9

Out of Harm's Way - 8

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cosmos (10a)

Screaming Yellow Zonkers (10b)

Phoenix (10a)

BBQ The Pope (10b+)

Zebra Direct (11a)

Moonshine Dihedral (9)

Teddy Bear's Picnic (10a, I like first 3p)

Irreverence (10a)

Revelations (9)

Blue Light Special (11a)

Spiderman (5.7, 3p)

 

Many of the sport routes in the main gorge at Smith have the crux right off the ground. For this reason, many people bring a stick clip. Your call.

 

Last time I was at Smith I talked to a guy about a multi-pitch sport route 5.8/9 called "wherever I may roam" or something like that. Sounded cool. I'm going to look for it next weekend. Anyone know what I am talking about?

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alpi

 

go over asttisks pass and take a right. go to a big cave like feature and there are many bolts. start to the right of the cave like thingy....

 

its pretty fun.

 

do sky ridge instead....it is like 34760-823576283576894576457635765076 times better and you get to rap where ever i may roam!!

 

 

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i thought for roam you take a left after going over the pass, and it starts on a big detached flake.

 

skyclimb did it on saturday, where you at homey, spew the beta?

 

 

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Krate Crack - .10a, popular handcrack

Let's Face It - .10b, fun sport route on Red Wall

Where ever I may Roam - .9, Pretty good climbing, just bring on the nubbins!

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If you do sky ridge, it is mandatory to finish with the Skydive (10b) variation. Although I have never done the actual 2nd pitch of skyline, it looks pretty ho-hum when compared to the fianl moves of skydive. I've now followed it and lead it since last winter and think it is an awesome line!

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JayB said:

in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)?

 

Sunset Slab on Cod Rock

Moonshine Dihedral

Light on the Path

Moons of Pluto

Barbeque The Pope

Wartleys Revenge

 

While not in your 5.9 -5.11 range, I also recommend

Bunny Face

5-Gallon Buckets

 

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erik said:

DELURIUM TREMONS

 

 

Yeah! I wanna do that one. You wanna hit it up dis weekend Erik? South Buttress and Cave Route look fun too. I've never been to the Marsupial Crags.

Edited by Alpinfox

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Alex said:

JayB said:

in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)?

 

Bunny Face

5-Gallon Buckets

 

buckets bunny

buckets bunny

buckets bunny

buckets bunny

 

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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frosty_the_tradman said:

Tuff sucks, gorge is good.

Cruel Sister 10a in the lower gorge, awesome handcrack.

If you must climb tuff-

Spiderman 5.7 3 pitch, good.

Pioneer route Monkey face 5.7+ easy aid.4-6 pitches.

Sunshine dihederal 5.9+.

sunshine 5.9+. buddy you are hard core. want to see your bulging eyes when you lead on sketchy RP's.

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jb- the best routes at smith start at 12 and up. they are doable though. just pick a couple of easier one and try to redpoint them. if you climb a ton of 11's you'll get good at 11's. you need to get spanked to get strong. aim high (join airforce the_finger.gif) wave.gif

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