JayB Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Haven't climbed at Smith much at all, and want to make the most of my visit there during the rope-up next weekend. What are some of the classics in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)? Quote
Sol Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Tuff sucks, gorge is good. Cruel Sister 10a in the lower gorge, awesome handcrack. If you must climb tuff- Spiderman 5.7 3 pitch, good. Pioneer route Monkey face 5.7+ easy aid.4-6 pitches. Sunshine dihederal 5.9+. Quote
Squid Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 My favorites so far at Smith are : Spiderman MonkeyFace (Pioneer Route) Toxic Gumby  Quote
wayne Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Sky Ridge/Pilot! Teddy bears Picnic Titanium Jag NW Passage Kings Blue Light Special Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Cat Scan - 11a Magic Light - 11a Vomit Launch - 11b Moondance - 11b Wartley's Revenge - 11b Blood Shot - 11c Rawhide - 11d Reason To Be - 10d Kunza Corner - 10c Double Trouble - 10b Tale of Two Shitties - 10a Heathen's Highway - 10a Trezlar - 10a White Satin - 9 Out of Harm's Way - 8 Â Â Â Â Â Â Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Cosmos (10a) Screaming Yellow Zonkers (10b) Phoenix (10a) BBQ The Pope (10b+) Zebra Direct (11a) Moonshine Dihedral (9) Teddy Bear's Picnic (10a, I like first 3p) Irreverence (10a) Revelations (9) Blue Light Special (11a) Spiderman (5.7, 3p) Â Many of the sport routes in the main gorge at Smith have the crux right off the ground. For this reason, many people bring a stick clip. Your call. Â Last time I was at Smith I talked to a guy about a multi-pitch sport route 5.8/9 called "wherever I may roam" or something like that. Sounded cool. I'm going to look for it next weekend. Anyone know what I am talking about? Quote
erik Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 alpi  go over asttisks pass and take a right. go to a big cave like feature and there are many bolts. start to the right of the cave like thingy....  its pretty fun.  do sky ridge instead....it is like 34760-823576283576894576457635765076 times better and you get to rap where ever i may roam!!   Quote
gapertimmy Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 i thought for roam you take a left after going over the pass, and it starts on a big detached flake. Â skyclimb did it on saturday, where you at homey, spew the beta? Â Â Quote
erik Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 that what i meant is go left..i am dsylexic!!! Â Quote
dbb Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Krate Crack - .10a, popular handcrack Let's Face It - .10b, fun sport route on Red Wall Where ever I may Roam - .9, Pretty good climbing, just bring on the nubbins! Quote
ryland_moore Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 If you do sky ridge, it is mandatory to finish with the Skydive (10b) variation. Although I have never done the actual 2nd pitch of skyline, it looks pretty ho-hum when compared to the fianl moves of skydive. I've now followed it and lead it since last winter and think it is an awesome line! Quote
erik Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 rylabd the hand traverse is pimp!!!! on sky ridge.. Â Â Quote
Alex Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 JayB said: in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)?  Sunset Slab on Cod Rock Moonshine Dihedral Light on the Path Moons of Pluto Barbeque The Pope Wartleys Revenge  While not in your 5.9 -5.11 range, I also recommend Bunny Face 5-Gallon Buckets  Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 (edited) erik said: DELURIUM TREMONS Â Â Yeah! I wanna do that one. You wanna hit it up dis weekend Erik? South Buttress and Cave Route look fun too. I've never been to the Marsupial Crags. Edited September 29, 2003 by Alpinfox Quote
Winter Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Alex said: JayB said: in the 5.9-5.11 range(Tuff and Gorge)?  Bunny Face 5-Gallon Buckets  buckets bunny buckets bunny buckets bunny buckets bunny  Quote
jefffski Posted October 1, 2003 Posted October 1, 2003 the hand traverse on skyridge (5.7) is one of the best routes i've everdone and the situation is superb. Â Â Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 1, 2003 Posted October 1, 2003 frosty_the_tradman said: Tuff sucks, gorge is good. Cruel Sister 10a in the lower gorge, awesome handcrack. If you must climb tuff- Spiderman 5.7 3 pitch, good. Pioneer route Monkey face 5.7+ easy aid.4-6 pitches. Sunshine dihederal 5.9+. sunshine 5.9+. buddy you are hard core. want to see your bulging eyes when you lead on sketchy RP's. Quote
JayB Posted October 1, 2003 Author Posted October 1, 2003 Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming! Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 1, 2003 Posted October 1, 2003 jb- the best routes at smith start at 12 and up. they are doable though. just pick a couple of easier one and try to redpoint them. if you climb a ton of 11's you'll get good at 11's. you need to get spanked to get strong. aim high (join airforce ) Quote
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