Distel32 Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Today at the rainy crag of World Wall I Rumr and I were discussing how you rate yourself. Do you call yourself a 5.11 climber because you can onsight 11s, or do you call yourself a 5.10 climber because you can redpoint10s. Or do you even say you're a 13 climber because you've projected and done a couple 13s?? Interesting topic. I think there are arguments for redpoint level and onsight level, but it is hard to justify saying you're a 12 climber if it took you 5 months to do a 5.12a opinions sans spray please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 If I say I am a 5.10 climber I will climb any 5.10 with you in the alpine and I will not fail you, leading or following. The odds of me falling are extremely unlikely. That would be a 5.10 climber, in my opinion. I have onsigted 5.10's at smith but I do not consider myself a 5.10 climber, for instance, as 5.10 can kick my ass at times following at beacon rock, or at tieton, or at smith for that matter. Edit: in fact, it doesn't seem to matter what you call yourself. seems better just to consider the climb ahead and judge your abilities climb-by-climb, especially when you are teaming up with someone new for an alpine climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I rate myself suck, because I am old and suck. Any questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 IMHO you are a 5.x climber if you can OS multi pitch 5.x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Things will look differently as you move around the fire Basically, you are what you are as you do what you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 So this is what boulderers talk about. This is the new rock climbing forum, lets not ruin it so quickly. BTW, anyone seen a magazine I think called Bouldering? Has a whole article on bouldering in patagonia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 michael_layton said: So this is what boulderers talk about. This is the new rock climbing forum, lets not ruin it so quickly. BTW, anyone seen a magazine I think called Bouldering? Has a whole article on bouldering in patagonia. Yeah! This belongs in the new PEBBLE WRESTLING FORUM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 i can claim to always be soild on 4th class! other then that there are no promises! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I've been sketched on 4th class! no promises there either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 snoboy said: IMHO you are a 5.x climber if you can OS multi pitch 5.x Does that mean Distel is a 5.7 climber since there aren't many multipitch V9's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 If I say I'm a hasbeen it means I would like to cheastbeat about how good I used to be but I am so far from it now, no one would believe me. A 5.10 climber should be able to lead most 5.10s. A solid 5.10 climber can usually get up an 11 and should be able to cruise any 10 on lead. That was the assesment scale I used to find in most places. But I am a hasbeen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Agree with most posts here. I feel it is an area by area basis. If one can onsight most .10s at smith, does that mean he is going to be able to onsight most .10s at Index, Yos, or Senaca? Doubtful. If you are talking about meeting a new partner and trying to convey to thewm your level, that is how you should proceed. If you've never climbed at the area you are going, then tell your potential partner something on the lower end or say I climb at this level at this area. Ratings are individual and should be treated as such. There are varrying ratings even within a specific area, so if the line looks like fun, do it! By the way, I onsighted V0 in the gym last night! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted September 12, 2003 Author Share Posted September 12, 2003 I'm sorry but I don't think I made any references to bouldering at all. This was something Rumr brought up with me and we both thought we should see what other people thought without spray. Please show me where I talked about bouldering I agree with the onsight stuff people are saying, and I think if you can onsight over 75% of the routes you try at a level than that should be it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Disregard Layton...he doesn't know you or me, so his comment is irrelevant... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 At the risk of sounding like dr phil, we are all three different climbers ... 1. The climber we tell others that we are. 2. The climber that we think we are. 3. The climber that we really are. the trick is to get all three to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I like to rate myself incredibly suck because that is what I tend to climb. But I like jja's point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 jja said: At the risk of sounding like dr phil, we are all three different climbers ... 1. The climber we tell others that we are. 2. The climber that we think we are. 3. The climber that we really are. the trick is to get all three to match. I disagree. I am very straightforward on what I can and cannot do. I don't necessarily "rate" myself, as much as communicate what climbs I have done and felt strong on (when meeting a new partner). If asked, I usually downgrade myself a number, because then I KNOW I'm totally solid if they turn out to be slightly less than desired as a belayer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Greg's on the money w/ his self analysis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I can totally onsight 5.6's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I can onsight 3.12's usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 scot'teryx said: I can totally onsight 5.6's This isn't always a blanket statement for me. A feel totally comfortable in 5.9 cracks most of the time, but 5.9 face/friction makes me a little nervous, and I hate 5.9 chimneys. So, for me, it depends on the climb as to what I say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 The only time it ever really matters to rate yourself is when deciding what to climb. In that respect, jja's three points all come clearly into the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 Differs for sport and trad too, I'll lead several grades higher sport than I will trad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 b-rock said: Differs for sport and trad too, I'll lead several grades higher sport than I will trad. Agreed. Also differs for trad and offwidth - I'll lead several grades lower in the wideness, as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 iain said: I've been sketched on 4th class! no promises there either THAT IS SOOO ME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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