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richard_noggin

Overhand Knot for Rap

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I don't know why more people use the an Overhand knot aka Euro Death Knot for rapping. It is simple to tie, easy to untie, pulls smooth across rock, no back-up knot needed, and it is strong. Been using it for years and never gotten the knot to roll, even on wet icy ropes. I tend to tie longer tails than what others have recomended, but thats me.

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iain said:

erik said:

DJ JAZZY JEFF!

nice!

 

Feh. The URL for the image has "JJ" in it. DFA guessed it lickety-split. Next time, please be more clever, at least clever enough to keep total loser hippie gapewads like Erik from guessing it

 

wave.gif.

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YOU WILL DIE!!! WHY DO YOU THINK IT'S CALLED THE EURO DEATH KNOT?!

 

I ran into Michael Stanton on the GNS one evening and we agreed to combing ropes to make it down in 2 raps. He says "Is the Euro Death Knot OK with you?" I look into my wife's now quivering eyeballs and say "sure" and spent the rest of the trip down explaining that it's called the "Death Knot" just for fun.

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yelrotflmao.gif

 

I spent awhile reading about the EDK at one point. There have been fatalities resulting from rolls that eat up short tails over multiple raps. This results from the knot being appropiately tightened.

 

So, somebody pointed this out already, but you *must* have long tails and you *must* properly tighten the knot. Properly means pulling on the four combinations of opposing strands, until the knot is as tight you can possibly make it.

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fleblebleb said:

yelrotflmao.gif

 

I spent awhile reading about the EDK at one point. There have been fatalities resulting from rolls that eat up short tails over multiple raps. This results from the knot being appropiately tightened.

 

So, somebody pointed this out already, but you *must* have long tails and you *must* properly tighten the knot. Properly means pulling on the four combinations of opposing strands, until the knot is as tight you can possibly make it.

The data referred to earlier suggests otherwise. The knot only started rolling at about 1000 lbs load for a well dressed, but not "as tight you can possibly make it" knot.

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The rolling would likely be very dependent on rope diameters, difference in rope diamters, wetness of ropes, and a host of other variables that weren't tested in that study. I'd bet the knot still rolls at significantly less than 1000 lbs in some cases.

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I don't get it WHY use it? I have not gotten a rope stuck so often that I would change from a double fishermans. To each his own.

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I think the overhand know is awesome for rappelling. However when I rap with two different size ropes I always use the double fisherman's.

 

my 2 cents

 

I'm out

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You should check out the pms special-- Fifi hook rappel. I'm not the only fool scared of it. I heard bobinc and company made a bunch of them on some mountain too. Especially when your anchor is fingernail sized stopper.

 

I checked out Forrest and Westman doing an interesting rappell from an ice climb in BC from a twisted up dead looking bush. As to the size of w I'm still amazed to this day it held. We opted for the big ass tree 50 feet to the right. fruit.gif

 

Maybe there should be a braggarts discussion of the shitties rap anchors or rappel situations. Obviously the ones where nobody was hurt and the nerves were tweaked wazzup.gifwave.gif

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slung icicle - winter "its just like a abalakov right?"

summer - small tree. half way down my buddy at the top sez "Hey this tree is pulling out of the ground, eh" shocked.gif

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Crap slings on 2 rusty 1/4" buttonheads hellno3d.gif in toulomne, doing some "obscure .10c". thought I was gonna die for sure...waiting for that sickening tear of rotton webbing that, fortunately, never came... tongue.gif

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me and whirlwind were in the parking lots at castle rock and some crusty ass foo comes up and says he has a great way for full length rappels with one rope... you tie off to a fi-fi hook some how and attach a ruber band in a way that when you let up pressure, the hook comes off the rock... he says you have to be carefull not to take your weight off of it or the hook will come loose! hellno3d.gif WTF? that is the greatest darwin awards candidate thing i have ever heard... mushsmile.gif

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Fence_Sitter said:

me and whirlwind were in the parking lots at castle rock and some crusty ass foo comes up and says he has a great way for full length rappels with one rope... you tie off to a fi-fi hook some how and attach a ruber band in a way that when you let up pressure, the hook comes off the rock... he says you have to be carefull not to take your weight off of it or the hook will come loose! hellno3d.gif WTF? that is the greatest darwin awards candidate thing i have ever heard... mushsmile.gif

 

It works and that is what I am talking about above..

 

It's just fucking scary...

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The dead tree that was on top of Rattletale at index.I don't know why I agreed to this insanity!

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Bronco said:

YOU WILL DIE!!! WHY DO YOU THINK IT'S CALLED THE EURO DEATH KNOT?!

 

I ran into Michael Stanton on the GNS one evening and we agreed to combing ropes to make it down in 2 raps. He says "Is the Euro Death Knot OK with you?" I look into my wife's now quivering eyeballs and say "sure" and spent the rest of the trip down explaining that it's called the "Death Knot" just for fun.

 

Tee hee! fruit.gif I remember that...

 

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On subject original-

 

EDK is fine. Notes above are pretty good.

 

Agree 2 different diameters notes.

 

Otherwise bring the FIFI hook and rubber band for a special. hellno3d.gif

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Dru said:

overhand knot works best

why get scared of it?

And its UIAA approved! cool.gif

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TO YOU PEOPLE WHO USE AN EDK:

 

Would you still use an EDK in combination with a 9mm and a 7mm static line?

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Fence_Sitter said:

me and whirlwind were in the parking lots at castle rock and some crusty ass foo comes up and says he has a great way for full length rappels with one rope... you tie off to a fi-fi hook some how and attach a ruber band in a way that when you let up pressure, the hook comes off the rock... he says you have to be carefull not to take your weight off of it or the hook will come loose! hellno3d.gif WTF? that is the greatest darwin awards candidate thing i have ever heard... mushsmile.gif

 

That sounds cool! It must take a beefy rubber band to unweight a 7-8lb rope with some friction on the rock in a less than verticle environment. Hmmmmmm....

 

Anywho, I rapped off a dead shrub backed up with a loose old angle piton set in dirt on Mt. Index once. Shoulda downclimbed or left a new pin. Nah!

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a random stone sticking out of the snow in a gulley in the battle range. couldn't get the webbing too far down on it so some serious leverage on that sucka cantfocus.gif

 

closer to home, a picket and stacked pile of rocks down a gulley on steel cliffs, hood

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Bronco said:

Anywho, I rapped off a dead shrub backed up with a loose old angle piton set in dirt on Mt. Index once. Shoulda downclimbed or left a new pin. Nah!

 

Hey, I think I may have rapped off the same shrub! No back-up tho. North face of north peak, was it? When my partner joined up, we went to pull the rope, and it seemed to be stuck... then we ended up getting the shrub with it! eek2.gif

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my ego!

 

i seem to have to descend alot because of it and let me tell you, it is FRAGILE!

 

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erik said:

my ego!

 

i seem to have to descend alot because of it and let me tell you, it is FRAGILE!

fra-gi-le. must be italian.

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