Attitude Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 iain said: sweet and how's the badmiton national team shaping up this year? bet they kick trinidad/tobago's ass again! Woman's Hockey Championship Called Off -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Associated Press MARBELLA, Spain -- The women's hockey championships for 2003 were canceled Monday after the tournament in China was first postponed in April because of the SARS virus. The International Ice Hockey Federation announced the move on the first day of its meetings in Spain. The tournament was postponed in Beijing because of the outbreak of severe acute respiratory syndrome, which has killed more than 700 people. Canada has won all seven world women's hockey championships, never losing a game. The 2005 world championships were awarded to Linkoping and Norrkoping in Sweden. The 2005 under-20 championships were given to Grand Forks, N.D., and Thief River Falls, Minn., the federation said. The IIHF said next year's championship in Halifax, Nova Scotia, will be run with nine teams instead of eight because no team was relegated to the B pool this year and Japan won promotion. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Best thing to do is think about it until nightfall and you are forced to bivy. Quote
Sloth_Man Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Ok how many times have you placed gear that you were pretty sure would fail in a fall but fooled yourself into thinking it was good enough to continue upward. I've done this many times, and each time I wonder if I shouldn't be leaving the gear out so I know for sure what kind of fall I'm looking at rather than luring myself into more trouble. In these situations I climb more carefully knowing the gear is bad, but maybe not as carefully as I would if I didn't put the gear in. It seems like marginal gear could be more dangerous than no gear at all if you're playing this game. But then again I've had a small stopper halfway in a crack catch me, and a TCU in a shallow flare catch me. Both of those placements I would have expected to fail, so maybe the marginal gear is the way to go. Hmm.... Interesting to ponder while you're doing it though. But if it's a flake that's going to break off I would hope that I could avoid putting pro behind it. Quote
fern Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 "It seems like marginal gear could be more dangerous than no gear at all if you're playing this game." sometimes otherwise marginal gear can be useful by taking off the weight of the rope while you pull a dicey move. Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 I heard from some mad Brit that if you place 6 #0 RPs on a free climb and whip, the first 5 will rip, and the ripping will absorb some of the energy in the fall, and by the time you hit the 6th one it will hold you.... Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 thats how they do it on the gritstone. bold climbin on little pro. Quote
RuMR Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 You should check that vid out called "Hard Grit"...Should be called "Sick, Scary, Crazy, Hard Grit"... Seb Griebe (spelling???) and John Dunne are sick...just sick... And Dunne is a huge mutha to be pushing that stuff at his level... Quote
erik Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 RuMR said: And Dunne is a huge mutha to be pushing that stuff at his level... FAT PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS THE BEST!!! HOW WAS YOS?? Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 Dru said: I heard from some mad Brit that if you place 6 #0 RPs on a free climb and whip, the first 5 will rip, and the ripping will absorb some of the energy in the fall, and by the time you hit the 6th one it will hold you.... I am thinking we can test out this theory using Ade or JGowans as the falling object Quote
RuMR Posted June 4, 2003 Posted June 4, 2003 erik said: RuMR said: And Dunne is a huge mutha to be pushing that stuff at his level... FAT PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS THE BEST!!! HOW WAS YOS?? ahhh dude...you had to bring that stinking place up, didn't you?? FUCK i don't want to be here, work sux, its almost like i didn't even leave here...i want to go back to yosemite so bad it hurts ... It was getting hot though...and squamish is whispering... I'll be up there for Father's day weekend w/ little Drew...not sure how much climbing I'll get in, but Drew'll have a blast camping... Quote
chriss Posted June 6, 2003 Posted June 6, 2003 The answer to the question is neither. Tie the flake off with a sling. Both the cam and the nut take the downward force, multiply it, and transfer it to the sides of the crack. Tieing to the flake will transmit only the force of the fall in the direction of the fall. If the flake is "open" upward and only attached at the bottom,tie off the flake so the force will be in compression and not pry the flake away from the face. Tension force if attached at the top only. If attached at the side, tie off as close as possible to the attachment point, to decrease leverage. No multiplication of force in a tie off. chriss Quote
chirp Posted June 7, 2003 Posted June 7, 2003 I seem to remember a fateful day a couple of parties ahead of the final party on Princely Ambitions...I always popped a cam in behind that big flake/block. Whoosh. Time is a great equalizer. Quote
Bug Posted June 8, 2003 Posted June 8, 2003 I have seen two flakes pop and follow. It turned out lucky both times. I'm really glad I wasn't tied to either one. Quote
Norsky Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 MisterE said: How about a tri-cam? More range than a nut (for the flexies), but not the 3 to 1 of a cam? A tri-cam? Holler if you have one and have NEVER used it. I have had one since 96 and I could still return it to the store if they took returns on gear. Quote
EWolfe Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 Norsky said: MisterE said: How about a tri-cam? More range than a nut (for the flexies), but not the 3 to 1 of a cam? A tri-cam? Holler if you have one and have NEVER used it. I have had one since 96 and I could still return it to the store if they took returns on gear. On your way back to Norway, return all of the gear that you bought to look cool. Quote
iain Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 Norsky said: A tri-cam? Holler if you have one and have NEVER used it. I have had one since 96 and I could still return it to the store if they took returns on gear. blasphemy! Quote
chucK Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. The next best kind of pro to put behind flakes is hexes. Yeah, hexes. Quote
Norsky Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 chucK said: The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. The next best kind of pro to put behind flakes is hexes. Yeah, hexes. I was going to mention hexes in the same breath as my tricam bit, but I didn't have the balls. Hexes suck. I never even used them on big walls last summer. Stayed in the pig for the ride. Quote
EWolfe Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 chucK said: The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. Yeah, I can't tell you how many "fixed" pink tri-cams I have clipped - testament to their holding power, even if it is offset by their difficulty in removal after they catch your ass. The point is: they caught your ass Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 If the flake is truly expanding; never place a cam. The only possible exception is a camalot or a cam with machined stops. Otherwise, there is a good chance the lobes will reverse & fail. I agree with Chriss, that you should try like hell to sling it. Another old trick in a narrowing slot is the venerable jammed knot. It will compress, abrade and tighten into place without much outward pressure; and act as a load limiter as it does. The above not withstanding; it's probably better to not fall. my 2 cents Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 10, 2003 Author Posted June 10, 2003 On several occasions I have seen old slings protruding mysteriously from cracks. I always wondered what they were attached to. Probably some were jammed knots. Quote
texplorer Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 MisterE said: chucK said: The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. Yeah, I can't tell you how many "fixed" pink tri-cams I have clipped - testament to their holding power, even if it is offset by their difficulty in removal after they catch your ass. The point is: they caught your ass I can't tell you how many "fixed" pink tricams I have sitting home on my booty rack. Quote
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