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  1. GWI is in great shape. Was there yesterday. Not much snow and a lot of ice.
  2. Where is this from? UIAA uses 12kN as the upper allowable limit. I remember something about this number coming from a military parachute study as the lower limit of serious injury/death.
  3. Agreed. The only way you'd effectively shorten your rope is if you have it truly jammed in a constriction, and even then it's likely that a bunch of the core can still pull through and stretch over the entire ropelength. Correct my if I'm wrong, but the core is about 80% of the strength of the rope. Modern dynamic ropes are pretty amazing. http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/facteurdechute.php thearetical versus actual
  4. I took 4 biners and 3 slings, 2 singles and a double. Partner had a 70 half rope. Doubled it for leads. Also right length for rappel.
  5. From Off Belay 30+ years ago.
  6. Actually BD's 13cm screw has more threads than the 22. So it should hold more. But, every test has shown this to be false. It's all about the quality of the ice.
  7. http://www.jjgeng.com/html/body_ice_screw.html A FEA done on both screw and ice. Interesting for those who care for this type of thing.
  8. I should have been more descriptive in a post. I was refering to 2 ropes in the top biner, taking the force of the fall. In theory the ropes could be moving in different directions, not just different speeds, in the lower biners. But there is not much of a chance of that but it could happen. I think the unweighted rope will be forced to move by the weighted rope before it damages it.
  9. I keep hearing this rumor that clipping 1/2 ropes in the same biner will result in the ropes "moving at different rates" during a fall. Are you falling further or faster on 1 rope than the other? No. Both ropes will move at the same rate. 1 rope may have more load than the other. But, so what. If they're both tied to you, they will move at the same rate.
  10. Are those Cambell's Saddle Wedges? That stuff has to be 25 years old.
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