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Terminal_Gravity

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Everything posted by Terminal_Gravity

  1. Beacon

    Dude...near dead from a boom hit, and still finished the trip??? Maybe your brain was damaged. Really glad you are alive! Was it on a gybe?
  2. Trip: Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop Date: 1/5/2016 Trip Report: There is an island about a mile and a half from the beach I'm on. It is about 300 yards long and 100 yards wide. I left in my Kayak for a different destination further out. I had to piss and there was some annoying trash at the top of the island. So I say to myself; Self, you can beach the kayak, take a piss and clean up the trash. It sounds like the right thing to do! This island is sea beaten. It has a small cliff all the way around it with one small rock beach on the West side and a tiny sand beach on the East side. I approach from the East. I beach the boat. The tide is coming in, But I am not going to be here for long so I don't pull the boat up very far. Take my piss, take off my life vest and look at the twenty five foot wall in front of me. I assume the rock is loose the landing is sub-optimal but I see a stairway. Some what over hanging in parts but it looks like 5.3 - loose. I want to clean up the trash at the top. It seems like the right thing to do! I start up in in my Teva's. It was loose, about what I expected. What I did not factor was all of the bird poop. It is some greasy shit!!! Slime like you would not believe. So I am going to have to rate this Bird Doop 5.10b-d+. I get to the top throw the trash off of the cliff to my kayak and start pondering the decent. My Teva's were so coated by this point that I had slipped on the top, not paying attention, and bruised my right palm as a consequence. I am thinking that the decent might be above my skill set. I walk all around the island.The west side has an easy approach to the water. I decide to just "Man Up" and down climb to my boat. It seems like the only choice. I decide that the best decision is to go au natural and I toss my Teva's down so that I can start with clean feet. That was the wrong thing to do! I twist around and lower my feet onto a couple of marginal holds, lean out a bit to look for the next move and my main hand hold pulls free! I scramble back up and realize that Even with all of the times I have survived Yosimite, the Cascades and the Andes; I could actually die here. I am over a mile from shore, the tide will take my boat soon, my water and food are in the boat, if I jump it will hurt and I will probably break something. What now??? Dear prudence says don't down climb the cliff. So, bare foot, I cross the island, get into the water and semi traverse climb and semi wade over sharp rocks around the island. Tortured feet, crashing waves and lurking sea urchins. I was so happy to see my boat still beached. Here is the island https://www.google.com/maps/place/83040+San+Carlos+Nuevo+Guaymas,+Sonora,+Mexico/@27.9341815,-110.9919372,360m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x86ce85bbf683a47f:0x6572657d71023c5 How was your day? Gear Notes: none to speak of Approach Notes: water
  3. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    "Los Tetas de Cabra" .....Goat tits! TeteKawa; I think is the given name if we are talking about the same bump. Hey brother, I have been up it a few times. I've never been to the top of the finger spike. I did not have gear and I don't know if there is a rappel anchor at the top. Did you climb the spike? It looks like 5.6/7 (wide fist jamb, about 30 feet with a very bad landing) if I remember correctly. https://www.google.com/maps/place/San+Carlos+Nuevo+Guaymas,+Sonora,+Mexico/@27.952265,-111.044947,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1s75637624!2e1!3e10!6s%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2FqFOFLo2aG223oCmDes2GgEAP5D3Cz610TMep8tQdFTqAo0BD7NkxgbStvEBQyHJIPQWB0pifF3ysbGd-gIaNJWuWQQo5lQ%3Dw203-h134!7i3008!8i2000!4m2!3m1!1s0x86ce85bbf683a47f:0x6572657d71023c5
  4. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    Ouch!!! The grey fog will fade. I am sorry to hear about it. That beam can be a bitch. Was it on a jibe? With anything more then a zephyr, they are always violent. I hope your "bean" is okay.
  5. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    BTW Ivan, I think your signature note is brilliant. - s
  6. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    I'm still kick'in. I am surprised and glad to hear from you. You are out on the water? I want a TR.
  7. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    After I put on Neosporin and bandaged my feet, I had a strong margarita!
  8. [TR] Sea of Cortez - Bird Doop 1/5/2016

    I am not sure awesome is the right word.....I was scared!
  9. Gear & book sell off

    Hi all, It's been a long time since I have been active on the site. Please: any of my old friends PM me or respond to this thread. I am probably moving to Argentina for the mountains and the back roads. I have to get rid of a lot of climbing gear and mountaineering books. I will start a list soon. To start with...may I have an offer for 1-31 Alpinist magazine set in good to excellent shape ( sorry, I don't have the Zero). If you need something, PM me and I might have it for pre-sale. I am keeping some of my ice and high altitude stuff but most of my rock gear is up of grabs. I am willing to sell extra cheap if you are worthy and broke. I also have a couple of items that might be museum stuff. An original Chouinard rock hammer for instance. stay out - steve
  10. Gear & book sell off

    Ivan...if you want the cam you have to give me your address. Call me - steve
  11. Gear & book sell off

    Hey Josh, I have not shipped the 0.5 to Ivan yet...But he wants it and I agreed. Should I send it to him or do you really, really want the complete set. $350 for the set, I think, pretty fair. They are, as you have seen, in the photo almost new. stay out - s
  12. Gear & book sell off

    good to hear from you, Oly. still climbing that wall in your back yard? Yeah, I want the Andes in my back yard...'love those mountains. Although, I may be to old and beat up to use them much. cheers mate
  13. Gear & book sell off

    Yep, 30 works unless somebody in the next 12 hours says they just have to have the whole set. PM your address or tele and I'get it in the mail tomorrow. wut's up wif yo self these days?
  14. Gear & book sell off

    Protection... I have gotten rid of everything that is the least bit questionable. Anything I sell is within 80% of new condition. Frankly, I don't want the liability of selling some old worn out piece of climbing gear. Make an offer... CAMS and hardware A complete set of Camalots 0.1 to 4...11 total. an extra #2...my favorite size 0,1 & 2 metolious tri cams 4 & 5 Metolious quad cams purple & silver Wired Bliss tri cams... I love these for finger cracks 1 through 4 of these crazy strong custom wired cam slide wedges, strong as hell, perfect for tip cracks, brilliant design except they fix. If you take a hard fall the crack owns it...not you; But, hey, your still alive. They grab better than any cam made. 5 old school tri cams, blue through pink 1-9 Wild Country Rocks 12 very small wedges several KB's LA's and angles 3 old jumars 6 unused bashies lots of soft gear some odd ball wedges and hexcentrics gobs of 'biners let me know if you want something, I'll get into other stuff later - steve
  15. Gear & book sell off

    Ivan, did you mean the 0.5 or the giant #4 camalot?...got both; they are both purple.
  16. Gear & book sell off

    Ivan...you have over 15000 posts???!?
  17. Gear & book sell off

    Hey Ivan, good to hear from you too. Nope no Nazi shit....I just love the Andes. If you want TMI my daughter is gay and my step daughter is black...nazi does not really fit my profile. I do have a purple Camalot. It is practically new...I hated carrying that SOB around, never fell on it, barely has a scratch. You could probably take it back to REI as new. Got a red metolious quad cam...might be the sam size as an alien. I'm not sure. What size do you want? later - s
  18. Gear & book sell off

    okay, so here goes a list of guide books. I'll follow with technique guides and couch books. I'll give (name), (author), shape (1-10) 1 is readable and 10 is mint, copy right date and edition (if not the first). Most are "make offer" on the price. If not I will suggest a price. Offer me one dollar and I might take it. CLIMBING GUIDES Colorado Front Range Bouldering, Bob Horan, 8, '89 Mountaineering in Iceland, Ari Guomundsson, 7, '95 ( hard to find guide) Climber's guide to Smith Rock, Watts (of course), 5, '92 Red Rocks Select, Todd Swain, 6, '93 Haleakala - a guide to the mountain, Angela Kepler, 8, '88 Yuraq Janka, J Ricker, 5, '77 second edition, Very rare but essential to climb in Peru $15+ Climbers Guide to Yosimite Valley, Steve Roper, 4, '71 first edition...a true classic Owens River Gorge Climbs, Marty Lewis, 6, '93 A climbing guide to Oregon, N. Dodge, 5, "75 A climbers guide to Sakha (BC.), McLane, 6, '93 Sport Crags in S. Ca., Troy Mayr, 7, '92 Desert Rock, Eric Bjornstad, 8, '96 Denali Climbing Guide, Secor, 7, '98 Cascade Alpine Guide -Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Beckey...but you already knew that, 9, Second edition '79 Tahoe Rock, Meytras, 5, '87 Rock Climbs of TahQuitz and Suicide (where I started), Vogel, 7, '85 Climbing the Cascade Volcanos, Smoot, 7, '93 A Climbers guide to Glacier Point Apron ( My old home turf, I climbed almost everything in the guide), Bruce Morris (The serious Dude), 3, '81, Super SUPER rare ( maybe unfindable and signed copy) but still the only GP specific guide ( I think). Cheap to a good home to somebody that will use it. ALSO, The Climb, Anatoli Boukreev, 2, '97, FREE and I will pay for the postage if you are interested in the Everest disaster and read "into thin air" which sucked IMHO.
  19. Partner w/small boat needed

    As some of you pdx'ers know, I travel the incredibly soporific stretch of interstate between Pendelton & Hood River quite often. The vast majority of the basalt cliffs along the way look climbable. But really are of marginal quality, at best. I've stopped and cragged several times and mostly just been dissapointed. I had pretty much resigned myself to just looking at the cliffs for entertainment on the drive. The other day I noticed, for the first time, a band of curvey columnar basalt that looks alot different from the rest of the gorge choss. It appears to be very very solid; believe it or not and it has a reasonable cap. The only problem is that it is on an island just east of The Dalles. Any interested party??? I'm getting off probation soon and am willing to tresspass again if it is on private land. I have no idea really, it may even be public. The climbing looks great.
  20. Kurt injured?

    Best wishes to Bonzo! Kurt was one of the most influential ( to me ) posters on the board in the early years of CC.spray. I love him for it. Get well fast, man. I have a bit of experience with that punctured lung thing...practice practice practice with that little exhale device they give you. If any body wants to have a fund rasier or anything else that would require some beer on Kurts behalf you can count on me for donating as much beer as you want. Let me know. -steve
  21. Eastern Oregon ice

    No photos???
  22. Eastern Oregon ice

    As I write this I can see Sketch & Funguy with binoculars from my office window. Sombody is leading the lower crux WI3+ish.
  23. Eastern Oregon ice

    A week ago it was looking really good. I've climbed about 6 times in the past 2 weeks. And have discovered some new sweet lines. Unfortunately, the last 5 days were really friggin warm and I was getting depressed about all the melting. Sunday I found myself wallowing (wallowaling?)in 50 degree weather through belly deep snow (cement?) up a gully to get on a shitty little 20 foot section of tool sucking, aerated and melting ice. Oh, the things we do for love. BUT... as I write this the temps are dropping again and with a wee smile from the weather man we will have spectacular conditions in a week. FWIW Feb & March are usually the best months out here.
  24. PDX pub club Sun. 11/6

    I'll be in PDX Sunday and very ready for a beer. I'd love to hook-up with some of the crew. I'ts about time we had a pub club. How about the Concordia Ale house on 33rd & Killingsworth? For some reason I couldn't post on the event forum...sorry; if one of the Moderator gods wants to move this. it is okay with me.
  25. PDX pub club Sun. 11/6

    I have comitments in the afternoon, but the earlier the better is fine I'll be there between 4:30 & 5:30. I may try to bum a shower & a couch later that night. cheers
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