chriss

Were these 2 ever recovered?

GWI is in great shape. Was there yesterday. Not much snow and a lot of ice.

Where is this from? UIAA uses 12kN as the upper allowable limit. I remember something about this number coming from a military parachute study as the lower limit of serious injury/death.

Agreed. The only way you'd effectively shorten your rope is if you have it truly jammed in a constriction, and even then it's likely that a bunch of the core can still pull through and stretch over the entire ropelength. Correct my if I'm wrong, but the core is about 80% of the strength of the rope. Modern dynamic ropes are pretty amazing. http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/facteurdechute.php thearetical versus actual

Lucille

I took 4 biners and 3 slings, 2 singles and a double. Partner had a 70 half rope. Doubled it for leads. Also right length for rappel.

NEO

80 plus probably. Steck as in Steck-Salathe'.

From Off Belay 30+ years ago.

Actually BD's 13cm screw has more threads than the 22. So it should hold more. But, every test has shown this to be false. It's all about the quality of the ice.

http://www.jjgeng.com/html/body_ice_screw.html A FEA done on both screw and ice. Interesting for those who care for this type of thing.

I should have been more descriptive in a post. I was refering to 2 ropes in the top biner, taking the force of the fall. In theory the ropes could be moving in different directions, not just different speeds, in the lower biners. But there is not much of a chance of that but it could happen. I think the unweighted rope will be forced to move by the weighted rope before it damages it.

I keep hearing this rumor that clipping 1/2 ropes in the same biner will result in the ropes "moving at different rates" during a fall. Are you falling further or faster on 1 rope than the other? No. Both ropes will move at the same rate. 1 rope may have more load than the other. But, so what. If they're both tied to you, they will move at the same rate.

Are those Cambell's Saddle Wedges? That stuff has to be 25 years old.

Try this; http://www.climerware.com/cknot1.htm Be sure and read the text in red. chris

At the risk of stating the obvious. They are different. You have to drill a hole for the bolt. The pin gets placed in the existing crack. With reasonable care, the pin can be removed and replaced with no damage to the rock. The debate about ethics goes deeper still. chris

I'll play... '75 or so '77ish (bigger than expected, sorry) chris

This is because Beal actually tested the Rando rope on one strand given that it was designed only to be used as such --Eldelweiss used two stands. I was looking at the Beal deal the other day. I read somewhere that there was a new clasification and test for ropes used like this. I remember the new testing to be something like 80kg and a <1FF. The Edelweiss looks to reporting the twin test results and the Beal the new testing. Compare them using their twin ratings.

Jens on pitch 4 or 5 of Mix-Masser

Sorry, slipped.

http://www.apexxgear.com/home/Clearance/Parts.asp?eStoreKey=8&eSectionKey=44&eSection=Clearance%20Dynamics&eGroupKey=77&eGroup=Clearance%20Dynamics%20produced%20in%202005&ePartKey=223&ePart=9.4mm%20DOMINATOR™%20Standard Jens, Buy the whole rope here. chris

I read #4 from the original post. That's what my measurements are about. chris sorry, edited typos

Measure it. If it's the 1st generation it will about 3/8" at the top of the narrow profile. 2nd will only be about 1/4". 1st gen was 1-8 sizes. Then they came out with half sizes. Then resized and renumbered 1-12. I don't remember the years. chris