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Building a Rack


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i disagree with chuck. certainly the yellow alien is a choice piece. but stoppers will cover that end until you can buy more. go with the #2 gold camalot. the larger size will be much appreciated!

 

then again #2 gold camalots are sink hand jams, and sinker hand jams are equal to a belay!!

 

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If I had to only have four cams, they'd all be camalots b/c they have the widest size range. I'd also supplement with tri-cams, b/c even though they're a bitch to place they fit in pockets and parralell sided cracks - where nuts won't. They're good for the mountains.

Also depends on what the rack's for. For just rock I probably wouldn't bring any pins, but if you're gunna be swinging ice tools you should include some angles and bugs. You can also hammer the shit out of a nut to fit in the funky spots.

 

And don't forget me frosted lucky charms, they're magically delicious!

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I would suggest that you consider purchasing several forged Friends. They are inexpensive, last forever and are quality. Certainly there are times where a flexible stem is preferred over a solid one but honestly I climbed for years with them and rarely found a cable stem essential. You can always add a sub sling to a forged Friend to improve horizontal placements.

 

Check this link out for Wired Bliss units on sale. I am not sure if they have built in cams stops or not. Back in the dark ages I think that I was wishing for solid cams stops more often than I wanted a flexible stem so that would be an important consideration to me.

 

Wired Bliss sale

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have read a review of the camalots that said they may have a tendancy to pull out more than the Tech friends? Any truth to this? Since I am over 200 lbs, cam holding power means everything to me! I read that the cam angle of the BD is 14 degrees compared to 13.75 for most other brands incl WC. Is the difference of .25 degrees make a big difference? Since I am new to climbing I am trying to get all the info I can...thanks

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Coopah said:

I have read a review of the camalots that said they may have a tendancy to pull out more than the Tech friends? Any truth to this? Since I am over 200 lbs, cam holding power means everything to me! I read that the cam angle of the BD is 14 degrees compared to 13.75 for most other brands incl WC. Is the difference of .25 degrees make a big difference? Since I am new to climbing I am trying to get all the info I can...thanks

A larger cam angle gives you a larger useful range. A smaller cam angle produces a greater normal force on the rock and hence greater holding power. However, I don't think that a quarter of a degree will make any significant difference.
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