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leejams

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Everything posted by leejams

  1. Total Soul TR

    Thinker and myself went out there (3 o'clock rock) on Sunday to do something and ended up doing total soul. I expected to get cooked hanging on that slab all day but not so. I expected it to be a bit crowded, but not so. Saw 1 person the whole day and that was when we were up on pitch #5. Only 1 car besides our's and Utah plates . Highlights, took a small whipper low and pitch#2 to set my shit straight for the rest of the trip. Was leary about that overhang by "batman bush" ( I so suck at overhangs) but not to bad. Top of pitch 5 is that daddy ledge and a great rest break to get relief from all the hanging belays. Looking towards the north we noticed a huge mushroom cloud which wasn't there 30 minutes prior??? What was up with that. Short 5.10b pitches at the top were interesting and fun fun fun. Great day, partner, and at the end for a weekend. and of course whoever put up that new hardware (mattp?) you deserve a medal. Much appreciated
  2. vw monday nights

    Down at vertical world Seattle Monday evenings trying to get the kids (girl 8,boy 10) ready for climbing this summer. Problem is I am a complete belay slave. So if you have kids or like kids or just want to partner up to climb that is cool to. I was so desperate I tried to teach my wife how to belay :anger: shoot me a PM if interested. also can climb mon-tues days.
  3. vw monday nights

    Hi ya Jay, great to hear from you man. Are you still back east? Yup I figured what better way to keep the tykes busy than to string em up on a rope. They are having fun with it as I see Nicole picked up the figure 8 knot pretty quick and put a "climbing rope" on her xmas list. Not bad for an 8 year old. I will add this to the kids section and good advice and will shoot you over my e-mail. Lee
  4. Ditto that Mark, Hate to lose a great partner/guy to the dreaded east coast!! OK anyone want to chime in what he will be like when he returns??? But great trip report Jay and check your PM's with some info etc...
  5. WTB: sea kayak...

    Icegirl you may want to check out the sit on top sea kayaks as well. I have tried both and liked the sit on top better. Recently picked up the new x-factor from this company and spared myself the WA state tax! http://www.malibukayaks.com/kayaks.asp I got it as I wanted to get my 5 year old into fishing and if you are into that you can trick them out with sonar,gps,rod holders,bait tanks ets...If you are into camping they have tons of storage etc... Amazingly stable, as I let a friend demo it and he tried to tip it over. At 210# he had it out of the water and on its side and still wouldn't flip. HA he just bought 2, one for him and one for his girlfriend! Good luck to ya whatever your choice.
  6. [TR] Mount Stuart - West Ridge 3/11/2005

    Great read, way to go fella's. Josh is like the energizer bunny with the prospect of burgers and fries.
  7. The Gambler is missing

    Wow, hikers self promoting over a missing person report! Real deal folks even grown up's get gone. I ran the 48 states for over 10 years and constantly saw on bulltetin boards missing person flyers on a daily basis. SHIT Happens. So lets help out if we can, ya never know. And a side note, if you are found I as well play hold em and am always up for a $1,000 minnimum game. 6 person if we can hook this fella up??
  8. Nice snow pictures

    UTAHHHHHHH
  9. [TR] Pinnacle Peak- East Ridge 12/18/2004

    feel fortunate, wait till you get there at 8 for the "9 opening of the gate" only to have to wait till 10-11 or so till they plow 3 inches of snow, then get in line to the top with granny driving 5 mph and of course she is in the lead. Get there around noonish, get back to the car in a few hours around darkish and then drive back to Seattle. Nice trip report and pics.
  10. Solo permit for Rainer

    Plus at least a thousand posts on this site.
  11. [TR] colchuck lake- nothing 12/6/2004

    hey dweeb can't you see that fire is levitating, like kinda floating and shit.
  12. MP3 Player recommendations?

    For all you I-podders out there who are willing to spend that much dough on music, don't forget the $200 headphones here. http://reviews.cnet.com/Etymotic_ER-4P_MicroPro_earphones/4505-6468_7-30690254.html?tag=img
  13. MP3 Player recommendations?

    I found this link informative on all the different players, types etc... http://reviews.cnet.com/Music/4520-7964_7-5134106-1.html?tag=dir.bg
  14. Climb: Colchuck-North Buttress Couloir Date of Climb: 11/21/2004 Trip Report: Gear Notes: 2 60M ropes, An assortment (many) knife blades,bugaboo's,pins, Tricam's worked well, and nuts (a few) up to 3". Ice tools, picket. Most important gear was the puffy cause it was freakin cold up there! jayb brought the rack and would give you more details. Approach Notes: Could drive to the trailhead which was a huge plus. Trail was mixed hard snow pack with ice and dirt track. Brutal on the way out. Camped Sat night at the lake and very cold but light wind which was great. Got going around the not so early 8ish, and started gearing up at the last dead snag on the moraine ridge. First pitch was a traverse over to the bottom of a cool little water ice pitch and probable the crux of the rte, once above this another little styrofoam climb to another little water ice part, and more snow, neve climbing. Once we regrouped above this it was pretty much snow,neve, simulclimbing to one last interesting rock band near the top of the couloir which was drytooling, crampon scraping govelling funness. Popped out at the col with the full force of icy wind, and could see weather moving in rapidly from Mt. Suart. 2nd section, we stayed roped up but an easy rising traverse around the ridge. 3rd section was 4th, one or two low 5th class sections and very interesting as it was now very dark, weather starting to really move in and the rock being thinly covered with sucker ice/snow is the best way I can describe it. Mark (alpine dreamer) were really glad we had Jayb as he had done this rte prior and new the way out of this maze. The key is to keep going up and bearing to the right to where it looks impossible to go any further. Then presto a hidden easly ramp to climbers left which pops you out on the summit. 4th section was all the downclimbing over steep ass snow chutes, and of course more of the rock with sucker ice/snow covering. Ahhhh finally to the top of the colchuck col and plunge stepping all the way to within 50 yards of our campsite. And of course the longggggggg ass walkout over the treacherous ice covered trail. This is an awesome rte with nothing super hard but sustained with a bit of everything thrown at you to keep you on your toes. Had a most excellent team of Jayb leading and rte finding, Myself, and Mark (alpine dreamer) who I had met on the climb and a great climbing partner. Final thoughts, this rte would be completly different in spring conditons as I would guess it to be just a snow slog. However, this time of year well it took the three of us like 15 or so hours. I personally hit the wall more than once. Jay or Mark feel free to chime in as I may have left parts out.
  15. More North Cascades trivia

    Who started the original "cascade trivia" with this first question? I did... 10/15/03. Wrong, and I forgot when I did. Never knew there would be that much trivia. Cool stuff to browse through. Thanks lowell as you seem to be much informed.
  16. Exploding Lava Lamp

    Saw that on the news last night. To fill in the blanks, guy figures he would put his lava lamp on the stove to see if the heat would make the goo move more??? Well hmmmmmm it exploded and killed him.
  17. More North Cascades trivia

    Who started the original "cascade trivia" with this first question?
  18. the latest in possible route names

    "Hitler's revenge"
  19. Anybody been to the Colchuck area lately?

    Were you the two folks we saw down on that morain rib I am guessing? Yes it was a very long day. The water ice (thin) sections ate up some time, but the snow above in the gulley was fine. The back side scramble to the summit was bare so that ate up more time. The party of three was myself, jayb, and mark. hopefully when jay wakes up he will post a trip report with pic's
  20. Adios Amigos -- Off to the Great Salt Lake

    Dave , well hell if ya gotta move I can't think of a better place to head off to. Thanks for all of your guidance along my limited climbing career. You were a most excellent mentor and well appreciated. When you get settled in shoot me a PM with your contact info (computer crashed and lost it) as I may take you up on your offer. And of course if you ever head back this way I as well have a place you can stay. Cheers and good luck to ya.
  21. 5 got to do climbs in PNW

    OK someone had to throw that out there. 1-NF shuksan 2-bailey range traverse 3-outer space 4-Rainier fuhrer finger (got to get over the fee's and just do it) 5-Johannesburg,NE face 1963 rte
  22. Help! East coast skiing

    Nowhere!! Just sharpen those edges and have fun with it. My top picks if you head north are Killington (check out Bear Mt.) Sugarbush Jay Peak for you best shot at powder Sugarloaf, but is wayyyy up there
  23. Can you feel it?

    DISCUSSION...COLD FRONT MAKING PROGRESS ACROSS THE FORECAST AREA THIS MORNING AND IS CURRENTLY ORIENTED FROM ABOUT PORT ANGELES SOUTH TO BETWEEN HOQUIAM AND SHELTON /CLOSER TO SHELTON/. THE FRONT SHOULD BE IN THE FOOTHILLS BY NOON IF NOT A BIT EARLIER AND OVER THE CASCADES BY EARLY AFTERNOON. SINCE THE PRECIPITATION IS ALREADY SPOTTY IN NATURE THE MAIN CHANGE WILL BE A SHIFT IN WIND DIRECTION...AND FOR THE NORTHWEST INTERIOR...A DECREASE IN WIND SPEEDS. SUSTAINED WINDS IN THAT AREA HAVE REACHED AS HIGH AS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS NEARING 45 MPH ACCORDING TO A SPOTTER. NOT UNUSUAL FOR THIS TYPE OF EVENT. FREEZING LEVELS QUITE HIGH THIS MORNING...6500-8500 FEET IN ADVANCE OF THE FRONT...HOWEVER SIGNIFICANT COLD POOL BEHIND THE FRONT WILL DRIVE THE FREEZING LEVEL DOWN TO 4500-5500 FEET THIS EVENING AND 3500-4000 FEET BY MORNING. THIS WILL QUICKLY DROP THE SNOW LEVELS JUST AS THE WINDS BECOME WESTERLY AND THE AIR MASS BECOMES SLIGHTLY UNSTABLE. THIS SHOULD RESULT IN SNOW SHOWERS DEVELOPING IN THE HIGHER PASSES TONIGHT AND PUSHING CLOSE TO THE LOWER PASSES BY MORNING. WINTER STORM WATCH OUT AT THIS TIME AND THAT LOOKS LIKE A GOOD BET AND WILL LIKELY UPGRADE TO A WARNING BY THE AFTERNOON PACKAGE IF THE SNOWFALL AMOUNTS STILL LOOK GOOD. FORESEE A LATE MORNING UPDATE ONCE AGAIN TODAY. THE FORECAST IS PRETTY MUCH GOING ACCORDING TO PLAN...HOWEVER BY THEN THE FRONT WILL HAVE PASSED AND THE WORDING WILL NEED TO BE REFRESHED.
  24. 5 got to do climbs in PNW

    Just a personal tick list. I think everyone has individual favorites they got's to do. Nice list DPS
  25. [TR] Mt. Berge- East Ridge 10/2/2004

    That's what I would like to know. I would have liked to see them. Good job nice area.
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