Rodchester

hairball: That is assuming that a sewn runner has less dynamic action than a water knot (or any other knot). Not saying you are wrong...but do you have any data to back up your position? Also, even if a knot does have more dynamic action (in theory) does that make a tied off runner stronger than a properly sewn runner? I seriously doubt it does. But am open to bete, real beta.

OK time to jump in here guys and just rip on the fact that TNF is sponsoring something...right? I mean come on, this guy must be a sell out ..right? He is doing this show at TNF...so he is a sell out. A clear media darling. A clear example of prostituting outdoor ethics for cold hard cash. This guy is clearly cultivating himself as a high powered meia giant. We must stop him. People like him must be stopped. He likely had some help and suport getting to where he is now, so he must be evil. Clearly this guy is the epitome of corprate creed and evil. I mean to think that he is using a TNF facility to spread his evil messae, like Jim Jones, have a cool-aide.

That was how it was two years ago....I assume it is still the same. I pulled a permit to camp there, but my friend got REALLY sick on the Ingraham (not altitude, a stomach thing - puking green as green can be) so we turned around. Always wanted to cam,p upt here and explore the ice caves. Good Luck

Non-plastic boots for cold climates/winter: http://www.tecnicausa.com/hiking/mtn.sht Summer mountainering/alpine, try the Ascend Bio-Flex. It is lightweight and really comfortable. Good enough for most alpine ice and snow, yet won't kill you on the approach. Soft and responsive enough for modrate alpine rock routes. Good all around boot. http://www.tecnicausa.com/hiking/backpacking.sht Jim Nelson carries the Ascend Bio Flex (at least he used to)

I have done ropes in the bathtub. It works just fine. Then I soaked it in DWR overnight and it held the DWR fairly well for a couple of seasons now.

There are SOOOOO many factors that go into it. Two weeks can be enough assuming a little luck, good conditioning, good diet, constant hydration plan, and a good climbing plan on the mountain. If the weather does not cooperate it will not be enough time. Diamox can help, but it is not a cure-all. It is more benefical to some than others. It does have some drawbacks, it is a mild-diruetic. Are you doing any smaller peaks first? This always helps. Do Nevado Pisco, easy and great views. Also, that peak is REALLY avalanche prone...be careful and be prepared to go to other peaks if it is crappy. Avalanche conditions there take a long time to settle, dry soft snow with low water saturation means that the snow takes a long time to consolidate. Lots to do in the area. Huarez is a party. good luck

m: Well like I said, why is it lighter tools (on water ice) don't penetrate as well? The weight difference is often just a few ounces...each tool still has the same strength behind it...right? The sledge hammer analogy is demonstrative, but not perfect. Same guy swinging the hammer...same obect being struck...only difference is half the weight of the sledge. The REI ice axe weighes something like 35 ozs (roughly)...about twice the Grivel Airtech Racing. Same guy swinging the ax (or arresting)...same surface being struck (or arresting)...only difference is half the weight. Not much difference in self arresting and penetration into ice when swinging, as far as this is concerned. Each calls for penetration into the surface and each has a force behind it. True the self arrest is a more constant force versus what i would call a throwing or striking force...but I see a clear correlation between the two...as far as weight effecting the performance goes. Maybe and engineer type could support of refute this? I have always read this, heard this, and seen it in practice...maybe I am wrong? Does anyone know if there are any lighter axes that are UIAA approved? or approved by some other certifying body fopr self arrest?

tomtom: Simple way of explaining it: Take an REI ice axe (or SMC) and self arrest with it. Now take a Grivel Airtech Racing and self arrest with it. You will see the difference. Another way: Take a cubic meter of concrete. I get a 15 pound sledge and you get a 7.5 pound sledge. Who is going to pound it out more effeciently? The weight of an ice axe makes a difference. The heavier the axe, the easier it bites into the snow/ice. Of course the teeth and the "clearance" (neg. v. positive) make a difference as well. This is much the same as when you use it as a tool. A lighter tool does not get as good penetration as the heavier tool. The lighter axe will take more effort to do what the heavier axe does with less effort. [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Regarding the TNF Westwind: "very roomy for two" I had oone of these in the late 80s and early 90s. Good tent, stood up to winds well, lightweight, but NOT, I say again NOT "very roomy for two." That sucker was pretty tight. And I have Bibler I-Tent with one door now...and I love it. Anyway Westind was a good tent, but not roomy.

The advantix film sucks. It is easy to get a good shot with it and many of the cameras are lightweight and compact. However, I find the quality of the advantix prints to be lacking. Good yes, but not great. It is impossible to get truely great shots. I think 35mm is far superior. 2 cents......

Grivel AirTech Racing: I have one and really like it. A really good general mountainering ice axe that is very light and...does have some limitations. It is so light that when used as a "tool" it does have some problem with pentration, but it does work. It just tends to bounce off when a heavier tool or axe would penetrate. So swing harder, you'll get over it. The lightweight doesn't help with self arrest either. Also, the spike on the "Racing" version is not the best. I do agree with what scot'terx said....that it will not stand up to repeated abuse. But I do think it is a "real ice axe." I do agree with DPS that it can be used on harder stuff...it just has limitations. I have heard it is the lightest UIAA approved ice axe...true false, gear shop legend? Overall it is one of the best axes on the market...I think it is the best lightweight axe out there. I have heard very good about the BD Raven. It is just a bit heavier. Let us know what you go with and how it performs....

I can see it now...the likes of the cc.com gang in full uniform and armed to the teeth. Dru: Since you are a canuck, you get to wear the old style mountie hat, the smokey the bear type, with big baggy pants and a red shirt. Dudley Dru Right

Mountain Stewards - Volunteers Needed Mt. Baker is a heavily used North Cascade volcano with an estimated 4,000-5,000 climbers attempting to reach its summit each year. The Coleman and Easton glaciers are the most heavily used climbing routes with peak weekends recording more than 200 climbers each. Thousands of hikers also use the mountain's approach trails and dispersed campsites, adding to physical and biological impacts on its slopes. In cooperation with the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, we're pleased to launch Mountain Stewards, a new stewardship program that will train adult volunteers in low-impact recreation skills, natural history and backcountry management. This summer, on weekends from July 26 through August 18, the volunteers must commit to three days of educating hikers and climbers along trails and at base camps en route to the Easton and Coleman glaciers. Shifts will take place during daytime hours, Friday through Sunday. Volunteers must be skilled in hiking and outdoor recreation, including snow travel, but will not be required to travel on technical climbing routes. If you're an experienced hiker with a passion for protecting wild places, learn more about becoming a Mountain Steward. Call us at 360-856-5700 ext. 209 or email nci@ncascades.org.

Check out these. They might be what you are looking for. http://www.omegapac.com/product.asp?id=573 I use the neutrinos and really like them. The size isn't bad as long as you don't have gloves on.

Fromage: Is this the belay device you got in Europe? http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp

DP: "you drive to almost 7,000 feet" on Rainier. Paradise is more like 5500 ft.

Hey that was a good response by BD. I'll put them up there with Omega Pacific for stepping up to the storm and taking it on. So quit your whinning and send them back.

If you want an all around crampon for general mountaineering and some easy water ice on occaision I would look at the Grivel G12 and/or the Grivel 2F. The 2F can be locked into a rigid platform 9Or stay felxible) and used on moderate water ice (Not the best but it does work). It is a greaat general mountaineering crampon. They have an agressive front point set up, more than most all others, for steep snow and alpine ice. One negative about these is the cut of the crampon encourages the "balling up" of snow. I think it was Dru that said that with these you need to learn to walk on stilts. My wife uses these and so does Wopper. Wopper uses them on Grade WI 3 ice. The G12 is known as a crampon that fits larger boots easily. Also the size adjustment is easy and quick. These should fit your boots without having to buy an "extension" bar as you likely will with the Charlet Mosers and the 2F, especially with those skis you call feet. They have an agressive front point set up, same as the 2F, for steep snow and alpine ice. I use these crampons as my mountaineering crampons and really like them. Reasonable price too. Get the "new-matic" binding so it will fit a wide variety of boots, not just your plastics. These are also very easy to put on and take off with gloves. Look at the the aluminum choice too. If you are using them just for general mountaineering they can really rock. The weight difference really makes it worth looking at. Good luck P.S. Check out this thread for other beta on crampons. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000347 [ 03-28-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Wolfie: What route were you on in the Winds?

wdietsch: Actually, I was looking for a comparison by the pound. Silly me, I am so tied to the old system, at least with weight. Distances I can do in metric. Thanks though... fxo

Anyone know what they weight is in pounds compared to the Ecrin roc? http://petzl.devcross.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=CASQ#ECRIN%20ROC

Oh I get it they sold out to the man that has been keeping us down (as climbers that is really oppresive). Thanks for not telling me.

Just a point of interest: I was having beers in Chicago with a very well known female climber (freed the nose type - can't name names because I might be accused of name dropping) and she told me a story about Yvon and tha nameing of BD. It has been some years since this conversation, but my recollection of it was something like: The only route she had ever done in Wyoming (at the time anyway) was one with Yvon. She was visiting him in Jackson and he said come with me to do this climb that I have been eyeing for a while. At a distance he pointed the route out to her and said something about it looking like a Black Diamond. They did the climb and returned to Jackson. Soemtime later he told her that climb was on his mind during the sale, it was suggested and it stuck. Now, I may have been lied to, or a I may have recalled it incorrectly. I am ONLY repeating what I was told over beers and pizza from someone that climbed with the guy. Just thought it to be interesting... And there is a difference between selling and selling out. Who did they sell out to? Themselves?

Try Second Ascent in Ballard for cheap climbing shoes, it ain't free...but he might be able to trade other old gear for shoes. A couple of the guys there kind a collect old gear, and they might want that gear sling. Good luck