Rodchester

Paul Petzoldt lived a pretty cool life in the mountains....same with Glen Exum.

Just thinking out loud here. The pay to play mentality not only allows our congress to avoid having to do thier jobs...it seems to be creating an amusement park mentality in the existing lands/parks/forests. I remember a while back some guy posted something about the privatization of all public lands, specifically parks and forests. But the pay to play mentality seems to do that, except with Uncle Sam as the owner and operator.

OK..something a bit different. Who would I NOT want to be? Joe Simpson. I mean think about it. That guy has had more major accidents that anybody I can think of. Ssure he lived, but he had to suffer the pain of at least few deaths. Ouch!!!

I agree with freeclimb9 "But it's public land for which you already pay taxes." Congress just doesn't have the balls to come up with the money through traditional means, Cantwell is a part of congress.

See Mugs Stump "Mugs Stump was one of this country's most prolific and visionary climbers until his death in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May, 1992." My recollection is that the area he was in had been probed and wanded as safe and that he was going to the outer edge of the area to piss. Don't quote me though.

"we will be taking a snow cat to the top of Palmer, leaving at midnight from the lodge. That should put us at the top of the ski area by 1:30 am and well infront of the Mazamas" If you are at the top of the ski area by 1:30 a.m. you should be on the summit well before the sun comes up. Enjoy the view?

You know...THE summit.

Leaving anything behind is an anchor...clean gear or bolt. As soon as you leave it, it is an anchor and is banned. No rapping off of webbing and a rap ring, that is banned (proposed anyway). [ 05-05-2002, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I don't know if I would say the ONLY...but they are likely the best. They are specifically designed to work well with plastics and other crampon compatible boots. Silverrettas are NEVER cheap..even on prodeal. I have an older pair of 400s and I am plenty happy with them.

There are multiple places to easily regain the ridge to return to your camp. Most will be self explanitory when you see the ridge from avalanche gulch. You can scout these on the ascent too. The only problem you might have is if the weather limits visibility, evne then it shouldn't be too bad (unless there is a complete white out - of course). Good luck..post a TR.

Spuds rocks!!!

Dan: You may want to consider an easier route than Liberty Ridge. While not exactly a highly tecnical route, it is very comitting and long. It is a carry over route that is often easier to complete than bail off of. To be honest with you I wouldn't get on Liberty Ridge with an unknown quantity, so to speak. Many Colorado types think that Rainier is the same as your 14ners....is is NOTHING like any of those rock piles. Good luck...and post a TR.

"near deserted because half the people who reserved spots in advance by phone changed thier plans without letting the rangers know" This does happen and way too much. But climbers are to blame for this, not the Rangers. However, a better system might solve this. My understanding is that a new system designed to prevent this is being looked at by the Park....but I wouldn't quote me or hold your breath.

Hmmm...is that aid climbing?

What do we climb for? Well I can say what we (or at least I) don't climb for...money...beer...chicks...prestige. Good quote though.....

"bigger crevasses"

The general ruyle on ice axe length is the steepr the terrain the shorter the axe, inversly the less steep the longer. Also, your height will factor in as well. When you are standing straight on flat ground let the axe rest in your hands with a loose grip. The spike should not extend down past your ankle bone. Again, shorter if getting on steep stuff. I am 72 inches and use a 70 cm. To each thier own...

Hmmm..sounds like you might be implying that a ranger told you a lie...or at least made it sound WAY worse than it actually is. Seems I've heard that once or fifty times before. Any one else have this problem?

ICEBaby I have not read the article yet...I will and will respond more fully then. However, my question to RH is what does the narrow scope and high specialization of climbing have to do with the globalazition of that segment of the economy? Are you saying it is bad? that somehow companies that can't competge should continue to offer climbers subandard gear at inflated prices? Sorry If I nee to read first..just curious.

ruddersbox: I think your advice is good for snow and ice...but this thread seems to me to be dealing with 3rd and 4th class alpine rock.

Rangers with rifles? Cheap, clean and efficient.

I'm with peter Puget....in a line can be protected with trad gear leave it be....any bolts set as protection for the leader on Ingals (and others) should be chopped and rechopped.

Doing a glisade in the Wind rivers I went right over a small but pointed rock that you couldn't see until it was too late. I felt it...but kept going. At the bottom my buddy says...your bleeding. Right through a pair of bibs, poly-ps, and cut a good size slice into my ass. Ooops. Twenty mile hike out...sore ass.

One thing: When most think couilor, a long narrow chute usually comes to mind. That is on ething the Luathold is not. It so wide and so obvious that some assume that that huge thing stareing right at them can't be it....it is. Not sure if this is what happened to you guys. When I did the Reid Headwall, whopper and I ran into three guys that thought they were on the Leuthold.

I read back over these posts and I need to clarlify something about Ingals Peak. Did someone bolt the route to protect it? Or are discussing the rap station bolts? If they did it to protect the route, that is BS and even I agree they should be chopped. Can someone clarify whether we are talking about Rap station bolts or pro bolts? Thanks And EriK...I do agree that a bivi for the sake of bivi on a classic route that would interfer with other climbers is not cool. There are too many other less traveled routes that would serve the purpose of the bivi experience without inteferring with others. [ 04-24-2002, 12:41 PM: Message edited by: erik ]