Rodchester

PMS/Nelson carries these packs. PMS/Packs

One of the better books I have read along this topic line (who made the first summit or lieing about the summit) is called the Grand Controversy by Orrin H. Bonnie. It is about the claimed first ascent of the Grand Teton. If you are familar with the Grand and have climbed the Owens Spaulding route it is a very good read and eye opening. I must admit it REALLY made me belive that there were others that reached the summit prior to Owens. It is very well written, researched, and dcoumented. Basically, others had summited the peak many years prior and didn't think much of it, they reported it, but didn't thump thier chests. Owen then (about twenty yeras later) sets out to be the first. (Many had forgotten about the others' claims because they didn't pump themselves up). After many attempts Owen summitted and then set out to trash the other claimed summiters in order to have it be known he was first. This Owen guy was a real piece of work and represents everything climbers of today try not to be (majority of us anyway). Good read, pick it up.

2 cents: Just because tracks weren't seen doesn't mean they wern't there. People get really focused and walk right by things all the time. Glaciers/snow fields are white and often have contours that while small, can join to camafloge tracks and other marks. The tricams are said to be there...don't believe it? Go see if they are there or not. Then talk shit. Good climbing Colin. And you even left some mountain booty for some lucky climber to pick up.

Ok Ok Ok Erik...and others, you are right. It is in bad taste. Yes I did chuckle, and I am sorry. But taken in the context of the spray that others have dished out and others have endured, I'm not so sure the moderators should supress it. Some here have dished it out and said fuck off now seem offended. No harm meant from me to those special people.

No Comment [ 05-15-2002, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

That is good to hear. I have always been very happy with BD products and service. True they have put out some junk, but more so than most any other company they make bomber stuff and they stand by thier gear with good service.

Troy Moss: I agree it is a good route. It needs to be inshape and can turn into a bowling alley. Early in season is best.

I went up with a few buddies on Sunday. Yes it was a circus...but I think that is the point. Just a group gathering, skiing/boarding down in dresses to celebrate our moms. The conditions were great. The skiing down rocked too. I took my skis of at the parking lot. Anyone expecting a wilderness experience on Helens is high on crack.

Look again, Dan Larson is your man on this one.

I also think this is not a clear D or R issue. Clinton, and many if not most Ds in congress, backed the fee demo plan orginally and again the extend the testing period. This is the politicians' way of not having to do what we elect them to do, manage the budget, balance the books. Cantwell SAYS has concerns? So what. She isn't going to change her mind to go against it because she is a D. She is going to vote such that she risks alienating as few people as possible. Climbers and hikers that disagree with the fee demo are few, when compared to the masses anyway. Fight the power puddy

Paul Petzoldt lived a pretty cool life in the mountains....same with Glen Exum.

Just thinking out loud here. The pay to play mentality not only allows our congress to avoid having to do thier jobs...it seems to be creating an amusement park mentality in the existing lands/parks/forests. I remember a while back some guy posted something about the privatization of all public lands, specifically parks and forests. But the pay to play mentality seems to do that, except with Uncle Sam as the owner and operator.

OK..something a bit different. Who would I NOT want to be? Joe Simpson. I mean think about it. That guy has had more major accidents that anybody I can think of. Ssure he lived, but he had to suffer the pain of at least few deaths. Ouch!!!

I agree with freeclimb9 "But it's public land for which you already pay taxes." Congress just doesn't have the balls to come up with the money through traditional means, Cantwell is a part of congress.

See Mugs Stump "Mugs Stump was one of this country's most prolific and visionary climbers until his death in a crevasse fall in Alaska in May, 1992." My recollection is that the area he was in had been probed and wanded as safe and that he was going to the outer edge of the area to piss. Don't quote me though.

"we will be taking a snow cat to the top of Palmer, leaving at midnight from the lodge. That should put us at the top of the ski area by 1:30 am and well infront of the Mazamas" If you are at the top of the ski area by 1:30 a.m. you should be on the summit well before the sun comes up. Enjoy the view?

You know...THE summit.

Leaving anything behind is an anchor...clean gear or bolt. As soon as you leave it, it is an anchor and is banned. No rapping off of webbing and a rap ring, that is banned (proposed anyway). [ 05-05-2002, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I don't know if I would say the ONLY...but they are likely the best. They are specifically designed to work well with plastics and other crampon compatible boots. Silverrettas are NEVER cheap..even on prodeal. I have an older pair of 400s and I am plenty happy with them.

There are multiple places to easily regain the ridge to return to your camp. Most will be self explanitory when you see the ridge from avalanche gulch. You can scout these on the ascent too. The only problem you might have is if the weather limits visibility, evne then it shouldn't be too bad (unless there is a complete white out - of course). Good luck..post a TR.

Spuds rocks!!!

Dan: You may want to consider an easier route than Liberty Ridge. While not exactly a highly tecnical route, it is very comitting and long. It is a carry over route that is often easier to complete than bail off of. To be honest with you I wouldn't get on Liberty Ridge with an unknown quantity, so to speak. Many Colorado types think that Rainier is the same as your 14ners....is is NOTHING like any of those rock piles. Good luck...and post a TR.

"near deserted because half the people who reserved spots in advance by phone changed thier plans without letting the rangers know" This does happen and way too much. But climbers are to blame for this, not the Rangers. However, a better system might solve this. My understanding is that a new system designed to prevent this is being looked at by the Park....but I wouldn't quote me or hold your breath.

Hmmm...is that aid climbing?

What do we climb for? Well I can say what we (or at least I) don't climb for...money...beer...chicks...prestige. Good quote though.....