Rodchester

"got to around 17,000 feet on the Jamapa glacier on Orizaba solo" That is signigantly eaisier that Lib Ridge on Rainier. First there is not any REAL crevase danger on Orizaba...just isn't. Second the route, the Jamapa glacier, is not that steep. I wouldn't consider time on any the Mexican volcanos to be real galcier time. Not trying to be a tough guy or anything...but they just are active glaciers...at least any where near the level of Rainier's glaciers. But if you've climbed in the cascades, at least on the volcanos, and some other peaks you can definetly develop the needed glacier expereince. Curious did they say why the denied you, and or what the look for in approving a request?

As Posted at the M2 website: Gabriel Llano brings a local_s perspective to all our Ecuador trips. Born and raised in Ecuador "Gaby" has interesting insights to Andean culture. His extensive experience in the mountains of South America make him an exceptional guide for our Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina expeditions. Gaby_s smile and caring personality make him a favorite. M2 - Guides

Latest Update __________________________________________ July 8, K2 basecamp (Broad Peak attempt) Now we are back at K2 basecamp after our attempt at Broad Peak was cut short by bad weather. We did manage to spend three nights on the mountain, however: From basecamp we climbed to Camp 1 at 5800 meters on July 4. The next day we climbed to Camp 2 at 6400 meters. We had hoped to continue to Camp 3 (6900 meters) the following morning, but high winds and blowing snow convinced us to change our plans. We also received a weather report indicating continued unsettled weather through July 11, so we decided to postpone our summit attempt on Broad Peak till then. We are relaxing at Basecamp, along with other members of the international team, enjoying the great cooking of Karim and his staff. Most climbers are now waiting at basecamp for the next spell of good weather, expected to arrive in four to five days. Some expeditions are now poised to make their summit bids on K2, including the Japanese and Tibetan teams. A large German expedition will go for the top of Broad Peak at the next opportunity, too. Our plan is to head back to Broad Peak around the 10th or 11th of July, weather permitting. If all goes well we should be able to climb the peak in about four days. After that, we will take a good long rest at basecamp then go for K2. _______________________________________

I don't have a problem with the local shops...I actually support many. (Second Ascent Pro Mountain) But the whole system is the problem. The local gear stores are only as good as the suppliers (ok ok and thier staff) and price IS important....but not everything. The time they are a changing....

"I will say that the person who spent lots of time with the salesperson only to buy online made a bad call. The individual salesperson invested some time with the customer. That time is worth paying a little bit extra for your gear. I can't believe the guy told the salesperson he was going to go buy online. What a dumbass..." I disagree...that guy sent a message that was heard loud and clear...that's why we're talking about it now. I'm sure his message was passed on to the manager and the owner. They got the message. Without that message they might think something else was wrong, now they KNOW what is wrong. The sole questions is: what will they do to fix it? This is the evolution of a micro economy. Many of us here by from Barrabes and other.coms. I almost never pay retail....because it is too high. Why should we protect a mom& pop if it is poorly run and ineffcient. Would we protect REI the same way? REI is facing the same problem. Adapt and change or die.

outerwear = Arc'Teryx sleeping bags: 1. Marmot (best semi-massed produced bags) 2. Honorable mention to Moonstone's 800 fill bags. 3. Feathered Friends best overall. Hardwear (biners, cams, nuts, draws, etc.) = BD with cudos to Metolious More specific, Grivel makes the best crampons overall Ice tools & screws = BD Footwear/boots = Tecnica & Plastics = Koflachs Tents = Bibler with honarable mention to some TNF tents Stoves = MSR Beer = Redhook

Take a look at these. May help you. Good luck. Bindings Scarpa Tambos BD Arc Ascent skis [ 07-03-2002, 08:05 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

"I personally would rather make a $30 donation to the cause if it will reduce logging and mining in the forests that I recreate in." $30.00 donation? Wow. Do you actually think it will reduce logging and mining? This is not meant to be a personal attack...but that was one of the most nieve statements I've seen on the topic. [ 07-02-2002, 07:54 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Recent update ___________________________________ July 1st, Basecamp to 6400 meters and back.... We just returned to base camp after spending three days climbing on K2. On June 28th we climbed to our stash at 5900 meters and bivied there. The following day we continued up the face in marginal weather to 6400 meters. The snow conditions were fairly good. We pitched our tent on a small ledge and settled in for the night. The next day was snowy and windy with occasional periods of sunshine. We climbed a bit above camp to scout out our proposed route, which looks challenging but relatively safe and fun. We spent another night at 6400 meters and returned to base camp the next morning, July 1st. We plan to spend a few days at base camp resting and getting organized for our next objective, a climb of Broad Peak. Weather permitting, we anticipate commencing our climb within a week. We hope to climb Broad Peak in a single push. This should give us adequate acclimatization for our proposed climb of K2. _______________________________________

June 26th, K2 basecamp: Christine and Charlie here! Last Sunday June 23rd, we climbed to 5900 meters and established our camp 1 on the south face of K2. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated and we decended late in the evening back to base camp. The weather has been unstable since then. We had our Puja on Monday. Lhama Jangbu performed the ceremony. Lhama Jangbu was a team member on our recent Everest expedition. He is now climbing with a Spanish team on K2. Last night it snowed a foot. We woke to find our mess tent collapsed from the weight of the snow. The weather seems to be improving. We are enjoying base camp life though by playing cards, reading and taking short hikes around base camp. Tomorrow we plan to hike to Broad Peak base camp and stash gear at the base of the mountain in anticipation of our acclimatization climb. Now it is just a waiting game...

That really sucks. The peak is very well known for avalanches and has active glaciers high on the peak. Though as a side note, I find it intersting that they call Ynuguy a "city"...village might be a more applicable term.

I'm not normally a chopper...but if these bolts are not required and were put up on a route that is normally protected by other means they should be chopped with care not to damage the rock any further.

Cold Weather, long trips, or need to melt snow for water: I use a MSR liquid fuel stove (usually a XGK II). Warm weather, short trips, no need to melt snow for water: I use a MSR Pocket Rocket. (Have also used a Giga and a old Bluet) I do agree that the half canister thing really blows and they are expensive. But for some tripes they really rock. So if I could only own one, I would choose the MSR liquid fuel stove. [ 06-26-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I like to use the small single walls for light/fast climbs...i.e. traversing the Winds River Range...and for one or two day climbs in the Cascades. They are light and compact. I have to say that if I was sitting in a camp for any length of time, say in Patagonia, Alaska, etc. I would prefer going with the roomy double wall...and dealing with the weight. I would go nuts in my Bibler for two months....or even two weeks. Each have applications and limitations. [ 06-26-2002, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Resume: Something we don't want Dennis Harmon to do.

Dennis Harman: "I argree whole-heartedly, but it ain't gonna happen because you're dealing with an entire generation of people who see climbing as nothing more than a means with which to further their resumes. These people do not have any real appreciation, or respect, for the mountains. They are just going to continue going up there and dying, in droves, and make us all look like ass-holes." Dennis you really need to take those pills AlpineK was talking about. An "entire generation"? Which generation is that? And really what the hell do you mean by "climbing as nothing more than a means with which to further their resumes"? On thier resume? Are you serious? Do you actually think people go out and climb so they can list it on thier resume? You have to be kidding. And just who the hell are "These people" and why do you think they "do not have any real appreciation, or respect, for the mountains"? Your statement is so generalized and baseless it reeks of arragance. Stop making such simple-simon assumptions about these inujred climbers. Put your SCUBA tanks on and go play in your bathtub. I'll reserve comment on the injured and thier actions until a complete report is made. [ 06-26-2002, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

High top flip flops...think about it.

June 21, 2002 Update _____________________________ Yesterday we climbed a line to the right of the original polish route on the south face of K2. We left a tent, food, fuel and gear at 5700 meters. The snow conditions were faily good and allowed rapid progress. Today we are resting at base camp with beautiful sunny skies. Tomorrow we plan to climb to about 5900 meters and bivy. The following day we plan to climb to 6400 meters and bivy again. From here we hope to do a recon of the route above before returning to base camp. We are having a great time with everyone at base camp. We are acclimating well and feel strong. Looking forward to the climb ahead! We send our best to the folks at home! Christine and Charlie _______________________________

As long as you are going light, low cut shoes can be fine. I wear 5.10s and the wife has and loves Lowa. But when you begin to put weight in the rucksack, stay out for extended periods, or travel over rough terrain, I find a pair of midweight/duty boots are better. Getting the right balance between weight/comfort/support is the key and a hard one to find.

Damn...you gotta admit that took some balls, to actually ask someone for help/beta that you have basically blacklisted. I love it. I serioulsy am just laughing my ass off.

So I took a co-worker's husband out this weekend for his first "glacier" climb up Baker. Just doing the Coleman-Demming route. We get to the trial head, he forgot his sleeping pad. (strike one) Hmmmm...ok we sleep in the parking lot and do a car-to-car push. We leave the trailhead at 10:00. Stream crossing he loses a trekking poles and over the water fall it goes...bye bye pole. (strike two). Right as we were getting to the treeline he postholes, hyperextends his knee and strike three we are going down. Sometimes it just wasn't meant to be. I made it home at 3:30 a.m had one beer and fell asleep. [ 06-24-2002, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Dennis: Where did you get that rock of crack?

This from two friends taking a shot at K-2. Thought other s might be interested. They are presently doing a "recon" of potential routes. ________________________ We arrived at K2 basecamp yesterday, after a nice trek up the Baltoro Glacier. We have found the local Balti people to be very friendly and helpful - no hassles so far. We did a recon to the base of the SSE spur this morning (June 20), and have decided to attempt a route up the south face, following the Polish line or perhaps another variation nearby. Tomorrow we will climb to approximately 5800 meters on the Polish route, to assess conditions and to acclimate. We are both feeling great and highly motivated! The weather has been unsettled for the last several days, but overall it seems to be ok and now improving. ____________________________

Cool!! a couple of friends of mine are trekking inot the Karakorum as I type. They are going to take a shot at climbing K2. They have a friend there, I think Islamabad, named Nazir Sabir. he did Everest with them a couple of years ago. He is well know amoing the Paki climbing community. Do you know him? I hope you guys don't "start" lobbing nukes any time soon...or ever. Welcome to the site. Some people "spray" too much, but for the most part it is good natured fun and there are a lot of really good people here. If you make it to the USA look us up. [ 06-20-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]