Rodchester

I have a feeling that Whopper is looking at the JC Wire Gate v. the Neutrino? The Neutrino is a little lighter than the JC Wire Gate. 5 Grams lighter to be exact. JC WIRE GATE Weight 41 gmsGate opening 22mmRetail $6.95Load bearing surface 10mm BD Neutrino Weight 36 gm (1.27 oz) Gate opening (.37 inch) 22mm Retail $7.95Load bearing surface 9.4mm (.866 inch) As a comparision the other BD wire gate biners have a 25mm gate opening. So with the Omega JC Wire Gate for a dollar less each biner you get a little more weight and a little more rope bearing surface. Same gate. Additioanlly with the Omega JC Wire gate you get the privilige of knowing that you are helping thousands of convicts to rehabilitate themselves by learning a trade and an uncompromising work ethic. Those that would say no to prison labor are simply the unwitting tools of the little known conspiracy between the union machine and the "man" trying to keep the little guy down. Trying to prevent even an medoric rise that might threaten the union death grip on labor and the "man's" control of profits and scoiety as a whole. Odd bedfellows true. But you must believe and say....yes, yes, YES!!! to prision labor!!! Come on everybody!!! (If you are still reading this and actually think me or anyone else believes this please execise your 2nd amendment rights on yourself in your backyard - easier to clean up that way).

The BD Alpamayo standard ice axe was around for more than a few years. My recollection is that it was made from the later 1980s until the late 1990s...but don't quote me on that. I am pretty sure that the Grivel Air Tech racing does not have a rubber grip, and the Air Tech does. I looked at the new BD Raven and I must admit it looks nice with a very good balance between light and heavy duty.

"the rockies just south of Pindale (10-15mi.)" I would guess he means either the Southern Winds or the Snowy Range. Most likely the Winds from Pinedale. If you go south on the main road (it actually goes south by east it is the winds. If you go south as the crow flies it might be the Snowy range...not sure about that part.

You see Dru, I have the inside scoop

To add a bit: In an alpine setting and most any trad setting I carry two sizes of runners, standard 24in. (over the shoulder size) and a couple of 48in. (over the shoulder in-half). I find 36 in to be too long from the harness, too long over the shoulder, and too short to half over the shoulder. As far as shorter than 24in. goes I just don't see a need. Set up the 24 as a draw (2 biners and half it) I have never NEEDED one shorter. I find that "marking" gear with fingernail polish is one good way. Pick an odd-ass color and with the brush work it into the inprints on the gear (Usually the company name/logo). That way it is unlikely to rub off. Good luck...

I love the Tetons and the Winds

I heard BD is now coming out with a "key lock" style biner...anyone seen/used these?

I am a member of the AAC and I just received an ad from Kelty offering AAC members a discount on thier Cloud Packs. What is blowing my mind is that the ad says that the Cloud 4000/Vapor 45 only weighs 1 lb. Only 1lb.? The Cloud 4500/Cloud 60 is a mere 1 lb 2 oz. That REALLY seems light, like too light. I could fart and blow the pack material away. It says they have a frame sheet and all kinds of features. So how do they get down to 1 lb.? Has anyone actually used these packs?

mmmm beer.

Ivan: I would do it in some situtations, but not to purposefully conserve biners from the get-go. My gut tells me there are real concerns regarding the nut wire having a "cutting" effect on the runner. The flatter, smoother, and wider the rope bearing surface area, the better. The narrower the surface area the more likely to have that "cutting" effect. That is why you don't see super thin biners. The rope bearing surface area of a nut wire is god damn small. One less failure point in the system? Why trade a known success for a guess? Not 500 feet off the deck? Does it take 500 feet to reach terminal velocity? No. Buy some biners and be safe. Good luck... Nelly: That was some good beta. Always interesting to see these types of tests. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Just an FYI: Charlie Fowler will be giving a slideshow presentation at Second Bounce in Ballard this Wednesday evening at 7:00 p.m. March 20, 2002 on climbing in Patagonia, focusing on climbs of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Charlie is an accomplished climber that has been putting up first ascents and doing hard routes on snow, ice, and rock all over the world for many years (Probably more than he would like to admit). Charlie is from the first wave of climbers that really adhered to the clean climbing prinicipals. All are welcome.

"Fowler and Boskoff are dating, last I heard. Seriously" I guess that is how you would put it. They have been climbing together and hanging out for sometime now. Ropegun, I think W was kidding. Just a little left over ribbing from other posts and aimed at me. Right W? But you are right ropegun, Charlie's accomplishments, style, ethics are solid & second to none. Charlie really is a super nice guy and very humble. Pretty damn good photographer too. I intend to be there, and hope to meet a few cc.comers there.

"Thermogenisis literally translated means "generation of heat". " I generate my own heat too...you should smell it after a night of drinking micro-brews.

I have a bunch of Neutrinos and I really like them for most any application that does not require gloves. I have one of the small OPs that I haven't used. So no opinion there. The weight saved with these biners is worth the trouble, except in winter conditions.

"The surplus is almost gone (300m left) because lawmakers in Olympia are unwilling to make tough decisions re state employment levels." What surplus? There is no surplus. In fact they had (or "said" they had) to spend the tabacco money just to balance the budget. Our asshole legislature and govenor (Yes, Dems & Repups, Right and Left) spent the rainy day money when the sun was shining and now we are stuck in the rain. A favorite of both side is to shut down parks, saying oh we are soo poor. Then when they raise taxes or cut spending from other areas they can point thier fingers and say but we had to. It is a great way for them to illustrate what thier problem, real or preceived. Whose fault? Our fault. We votes for them and we don't have the balls to challenge them.

DRU & W: Damn you two are on to me. I must escape to the grassy knoll now...run away run away.

Hey W....as your attorney I must remind you that if you give away such a damn good idea he can use it and get rich....and you get noithing. Get a patent first. I have to admmit I have never used your cams brian. Give us some idea why you think they are actually better....warning this is a tough and experienced crowd you are facing.

Should I be AplineRod or the Alpine Molester?

Good dialoge here... "Beckwith's source for the passage about selling the "sky, broad vistas, and fragrant flowers" is Terry Anderson, who, according to Scott Silver, is an advisor to Pres. Bush." Does that mean that this whole thing is Anderson's vision? Big stretch? Hmmm. Crying wolf? This type of name calling and bashing tactic will only serve to alienate many who are against the Fee Demo and many other similar programs. Who is spreading propaganda here?

I read the article posted at the link. I found it to be a decent front for actual legal research and poor policy suggestion. However, it is just that, a quasi-academic policy suggestion. I agree this guy is plain crazy. That being said there are in fact many private parks all over the world. In countries with an Anglo-American legal system these are little more than corporations (there are many types, green peace is a form of a corporation). This is not new unigue or neccesarily harmful. (From Disney World to petting zoos, and everything in between.) However, the idea of converting national parks and or forests to private ownership is nothing short of comical...no dangerous What I cannot understand about this post, is how this guy's article connects to Bush Administration policy? Is the author now in the Bush Admin? You say "below is Mr. Anderson's vision" but the article was penned by Beckwith? Am I missing something here? The CATO insitute (Mr. Beckwith's sponsor for the article) is well known as a right wing liberatarian style think tank. They purposefully generate all kinds of crap. The Fee Demo program has been around for years. Yes, I hate it too. But I don't see this as a Bush thing. many very liberal people are pushing for this program as well as others like it. Was it a Clinton thing? I think it is VERY good to point out these assholes, but we need to keep it in context. The sky is not falling, but Mr. Beckwith wants it to.

Allison: A bit sensitive? Can't take a joke? Don't be such an eggshell... Kidding Allsison, just kidding.

Come on Mike, we all know that was Lou Whittaker on the grassy noll.

I agree with the Grivel Air Tech Racing. It is a bit light, which can effect its ability to self arrest. Though I feel fine with it and have used it on stepp stuff. I do agree the spike is not the best, but it is not bad either. I wouldn't want to go any lighter for actual mountaineering use, as opposied to a AT Ski axe or backpackers axe for crossing snowfields. Hey imorris, I would send that Alpamayo back to BD. Let them fix or replace it. I'll be willing to bet they will fix it. Maybe you could get a new one, new version anyway. Cheaper but heavy, the REI axe. Simple and built to last. Heavy, heavy, heavy. Not a bad axe, but not my axe either.

I would repeat the Exum ridge on the Grand Teton. I would also repeat the Becky Route on Liberty Bell.