Rodchester

Hey RURP: When are you going to tell us how to run a guide company better than old Lou? Remember when I asked if you could do better and how you would do it? You responded: "Could RURP do better. Yes, I think so." Start a thread or send me a PM. Enlighten me with your knowledge of the industry, liability, management, leadership, guiding experience, business plan, etc. And I do think that Tomaz is great, but "the best climber in the world" ??? Whatever.

This is a friend's web page. It is mostly climbing focused with some great pictures from all over. www.carlosbuhler.com If you have some free time surf by.

I tend to agree that unroped glacier travel poses a risk of crevasse falls and that there is a huge range of risk. Sometimes it's very reasonable to travel unroped. Many glaciers in Wyoming's Wind River Range are very large, but vey slow moving and flat resulting in few crevases and generally appearing in very predictable areas. Also many smaller glaciers in the Cascades are receeding and almost remants making the crevasses very predictable. Sure sometimes, in fact often, it is just stupid. But then again who cares. Your life, your risk. 2 cents

I thought about getting a horse to do a "drop pack" of food, fuel, and maybe the rack and rope. This would allow us to go a little heavy and stay for a while. I am looking at two weeks in Wyoming...not sure how I am going to split it up. Do any of you know any horse packers in the area? I know that Todd Skinner's uncle used to operate out of Pinedale. Price is a concern. I guess with six people the price could be worth it. Good beta guys, thanks a lot.

Lambone: The North Coulior is that the one between Tower 1 and Helen? The one you can see very clearly from Bonney/Dinwoody pass? I have been in the Titcomb Basin area a bunch and just love it. We are debating going back there or into the Cirque. I remeber Ellingswood and have heard there is a real long classic route on it. I assume it is the North Ridge. Which area do you prefer?

Hmmm...I'd say that peice of equipment is being retired. I think it deserves a ceremony and a decent burial.

Great beta...really appreciate it. Anyone know anything about ellingwood peak?

Did it destroy the helmet? Crack? Shatter? ??? Glad to hear you are OK.

Thanks for the beta...good site. I may drop you a PM as summer approaches for additional info.

Looking into a trip into the southern Winds this August (Cirque of the Towers). I am looking for any first hand beta regarding: Recommended peaks/routes (low to mid fifth class)near the Cirque? Approach to the Cirque? (Wondering if jackass pass is the best approach?) Any kick ass multip pitch routes within a half day walk from the cirque? Also looking for any beta on Petzoldts' Ridge on the Grand Teton? Is the start at the same level as the start for the complete Exum...only to the right? Thanks in advance.... Please keep the spray down to a minimum.

So as an example of what I have been talking about here: This is an excerpt from a private e-mail meessage I received. I will not reveal the poster's name. I think it is obvious he or she did not it to be released. It refers to the thread which baselessly blasted CB. "I respect you for standing up and taking an issue with the terrible bullshit that was propogated on this thread. I truly don't understand someone who will hide behind an alias and essentially tell someone behind their anonimity that they think it's their fault their spouse died in the mountains. I wish that you would extend sympathies to this person from me. I feel guilty just through association with this website. I do not conjecture on things of this magnitude and I do not like to be associated with negativity that is as real and mean spirited as what we've seen here." Hmmmm, Why is it people don't post here? Good to know there are people out there that know it was bullshit...to bad the bullshit chases them away.

Be curious to see what the deaths rates are by climbers attempting: x deaths for every climber attempting summit.

DRU: As I stated earlier, that was what actually happened and I think it directly hit on what W was saying about the well known climbers being to busy and what others were saying about them as well. (Or somethign along those lines). The point is that they would particpate if there wasn't so much BS. That is why the statement was made and I'll make it again. I don't care if you call it name dropping. If the greats are the topic, do you think I shouldn't mention them? The setting was also a clear point. We were doing regular stuff people do. Sorry this complicated concept is lost on you. And DRU, I guess when you dropped names about who does post here, since it was to counter my position it wasn't really name dropping. This one time I was at bad camp.... [ 01-21-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

DRU: That was exactly my point. Sorry you take things soooo literally. I was trying to raise the issue. Sorry you don't like the fact that I am receiving e-mails from these that agree but do not want to participate and that I used it to demonstrate a point. You have discovered my evil agenda. Next I will conquer the world. I have been burned by you DRU. You have shown me my self-contradiction. I am shamed. Gosh, now you may find out that I am actually one Montgomery Burns of Sprinfield. I am not Rodchester the molester. I am not concerned with spray. AS I HAVE SAID SINCE THIS BEGAN THIS IS NOT ABOUT THAT. IT IS ABOUT THE BASELESS LIES. If accusing someone of killing thier spouse is spray then I guess you are right. (I know it wasn't you DRU. I know you are a sprayer and that is cool).

Jim: I didn't mean all people on the site, so I correct that. I mean there are some people that do not like it. You said: "the last thing I would want is to have some type of "PC Censor" to make sure that nobody is offended. I really appreciate and gravitate towards people who are honest and say what they are thinking instead of people who are always worried about what they say or try to tell me what I should and should not say." That is my point. I like the honesty thing and that is one thing I am going after. When someone smears some one without any basis what so ever, that is not honesty. So I am being honest and calling bullshit. I couldn't agree more with you on the "PC Censor" thing. That is why I am directly calling bullshit on it. Not seeking to supress anything that is true. You said: "Why do you give a shit Rodchester about what anybody says about a friend of yours? You know what is true and what is not right? People are going to say and think what they want, there's no controlling that eh?" I give a shit because she is a friend. And even if she wasn't I would stand up to the bullshit. You speak about honesty...well that is exactly my point and that is exactly why I am standing up. No controlling that? Sure, free speech. But I won't be controlled either. Lies will propagate further lies and soon the lies will become the reality, at least in the minds of those who do not know the truth. Jim I would do the same for you if it was the truth. No, I am not trying to be some crusadrer.

DRU: The context of the post did not mean that NO greats EVER post here, but simply that given the amount of greats in the PNW, few actually do. Sorry if you didn't pick up on that context. I will try to be more clear next time. Again, it is not just the greats not being here that concerns me. Too many weekend climber types avoid the site as well. Additionally, the quote was not from a friend. It was, as were most all of the others, from a person I do not even know. Could't tell them from you. On letting it die, thanks for the advice. But no way I am going to let people just bash others with no basis, friend or not. Just not in MY climbers ethic. Sure have fun, but it sqaunders too much of the potential for this site. Actually, Dru where is my self-contradiction?

DRU: "What's up with that lurking behind an alias comment anyways - is your name really "RODCHESTER" or is that some sort of nickname??? .... I mean c'mon what type of weak BS is that?" Are you serious? Ask Capt. caveman, ask AlpineK, etc., etc., Its a screen name...never said or even implied that it wasn't. Not sure I get your point. oh oh oh is DRU REALLY your name??? No Dru I don't care if it is or isn't. "Here is some anonymous person who doesn't even want to post to this bbs but gets you to post a message they send you" Airplane sound here.... Dru, the indivdual that sent me that e-mail, one of many from others, did not direct me to or ask me to post anything. I put it forth as a demonstration of what is being said off site avbout the site. I thought some might find it constaructive. If you missed the context, you missed the context. "ANONYMOUS POSTER - IF YOU READ THIS - WHICH YOU APPARENTLY WILL CAUSE YOU APPARENTLY LURK HERE ALL THE TIME TO SEE A THREAD THAT HAS ONLY BEEN AROUND FOR A FEW DAYS - WHY DONT YOU PRACTICE WHAT YOU PREACH????" Dru he/she is doing exactly that. Remember "I feel guilty just through association with this website." so they stay away. Why is that so hard for you to understand? People don't like all the crapo that is being flung around. So in response you fling more. Regarding me perpetuating it, there is an element of truth there. And I am sorry but I just cannot accept the bullshit bashing. Sorry I just think the board should be hospitalble for all climbers.

[ 01-21-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

You may also want to consider some aluminum crampons for general mountaineering. Light is right. I had the SMC with the scottish straps, which are better than the older system, but they still suck.

DRU: I do agree that "guiding" everest has made it boring in the public eye. The street cannot see the difference between a dog route done siege style and a first ascent done alpine style with difficult techinical sections. As far as guiding in general goes, it is as old as climbing itself.

The best beer is free beer!!!

DRU: I see Jim post occaisionally. That is cool and yes he is one exceptional climber. Not saying Serl isn't a great climber either. Lurking is not posting. I have never said or even implied that these guys aren't great. If you missed the context, you missed the context. I really wasn't getting into specifics of who is great and who is not, but more to do with the bashing that goes on here keeping people, great and no great, away. Especially when the bashing is just a bunch of baseless lies. The web page says it is for all climbers, but the words of many posters sure don't make it sound welcoming to all climbers. As far as name dropping goes, say that you want. I have known Carlos for years. Nice guy, very down to earth. I felt the context of the conversation, that a guy like Carlos can sit at a wedding and talk with guys like myself and Wopper about a low fifth class climb in the tetons as if it were the east face of Everest demonstrated how the "greats" do have time to engange in the conversations that occur here. BTW: you gotta love Jim's store.

I concur with Bronco. I have owned both and the G-12 rocks. Sold my SMCs. Don't miss them.

Oh yeah...and I would like to commend DRU. Once he realized that his statement about CB's book was incorrect (She never wrote any book, it was heidi Hawkins) he retracted his statement and more or less apologized. To his credit, he still stood firm on his dislike of guiding 8000 meter peaks. I respect that. To DRU

jeffers: "Rod, straight up...on a scale of 1 to 10, how pissed was Chris over the original thread?" I won't comment for CB. But let ask this. How pissed would you be if your spouse died and some jackass on this site said that you were the cause of or at least contributed to your spouses death? That is the lowest thing I have ever seen in my entire life. Worthless piece of shit. I hope that CC:er is hit by a bus full of nuns holding babies on the way to the hospital, and it doesn't stop. I would then pee on the CC:ers grave. What a gutless and classless person. No bady wants to be around that kind of person. Why do posters on this site take it? I have received multiple e-mails (and a few telephone calls) from people who completely back me up on this but just don't want to jump into the morass for fear they would be called a homo or thier abilities questioned, or be accused of getting someone killed. As far as the "greats" go I don't mean that they have to be sponsored to be great. I just mean climbers that when thier name is mentioned, most other climbers know who they are. I know that most of the spraying is just off colored fun, but go back and read that thread. Someone like Christine who does all kinds of climbing, including alpine style ascents of 8000 meter peaks, with very (if any) little sponsorship, who has never written a book, who gives a slide show is just riped to shreds? She is called names, her sexuality questioned, lies, lies, lies, accused of hating men in a book she never wrote? Is this off colored fun? One jackass says he can run a guide company better than old Lou yet he just refuses to say how? Real constructive. And of of this from who?