Rodchester

DRU (and others) 1) "Paki" is a racial slur. Well onl;y in certain parts of Canada, not in the US or in Pakistan. I work with a Pakistani here in my office everyday and according to him and other Pakistanis I have met, it is not a racial slur (again except in Canada). But in all honesty, I shouldn't use it here since sooo many Canucks are on this site. So I do apologize to those Canadians that felt it was a racial slur. It wwasn't meant that way. Thanks for pointing it out Dru. 2) "hope you don't STOP lobbing nukes??" Now god damn I suck...I meant "start" not STOP!!! Sorry all, tail between my legs.

Anyone know how much, if any, snow is on the summit pyrimad? Thinking about doing one of the rdges with a buddy.

I use ski gogles in very cold and windy weather, usually winter. I have never had problems with the eyes. It is my understanding that the darkness of the lenses and the filtering of UV A B & C rays are not always related. (Maybe some eye guys out there say diffent?) The majority of the times on glacier and snow I use presecription glacier glasses. I used the classic round glacier Julbvos for years and have no complaints. Cost 40.00 bucks for the frames and them paid 50.00 bucks for the lenses. Most will charge around $100.00 for the lenses. I now use a pair of similar style CEBEs that are a little smaller and more comfortable. I love them. Cost me about $50.00 to have the lenses put in (I know the guy). I have seen some guys that charge a small fortune, skip them and go to a regular eye guy....doing the lenses is not rocket science. You want to use plastic lenses, because glass can shatter and weighs too much. You want to have them put a scratch resistant coating on the lenses...becuase plastic does tend to scratch (main problem with plastic). You can go with just about any combo on the UV filer and darkness/tint. Go with at LEAST 90% on the UV A B & C filtering. I have 95% with a medium to darker tint. If you make it too dark you cannot use them in the transistional times (dusk, dawn, cloudy days where UVs still pierce the clouds, etc.). I have used this system many times between sea level and over 20,000 ft. with no problems. I do not wear them water ice climbing, or I should say rarely. I prefer contacts ther because I am fat and have no talent and often steam up my glasses when on steep stuff. I have used them on easier alpine rock with no problems. There is my 50 cents...sorry if I didn't help. Let us know what you go with, and why. [ 06-19-2002, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I say go with 60s. The point on the rope drag makes no sense what so ever, at least to my silly mind. If you have 60 and decide to only use 50 on a particlar route because of rope drag then just use 50, have the extra 10 in case you need it. The route causes the rope drag, not the length of the rope. Having the extra 10 increases options, not rope drag. Sure, it increases the weight somewhat and the inital cost (usually anyway). Put simply, if you have a 60 and need a 50 you can do the route. If you have 50 and need a 60 your screwed. If you have a 60 you can do many routes in les pitches. If you have a 50 you can't. The only real negative is the weight...and I guess to a certain degree bulk. My two pennies, and now I'll shut up.

I have found the Teton climbing Rangers to be the best informed, coolest, and most service oriented rangers around. While the MRNP guys have gotten WAY better in recent years, I seriously feel the Teton guys are heads above them. When you ask a climbing question (at Teton)...say about a route...you actually get an answer from an informed and experienced individual.

Adams Info Try this good luck.

REI Gore-Tex I know the older version was extremely beefy, I always thought they were over constructed and were too bulky. But if you want tough, this is it. [ 06-11-2002, 07:42 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Kitty? Dru do you mean Kitty cat

Hikerwa: "and as far as diamox working to alleiviate the effects of AMS, I do not beleive it works as a preventative if taken before going to altitude." Actually it is generally accepted as being effective when used before going to altitude. In fact most all of the literature on it states that you should take it one to two days prior. I know many take it "as needed" as opposed to a regimented daily dosage, but it is oten taken that way. And Caveman - what about declination - isn't it something like 18 degrees here?

Allison!!! You mean you have given into the commercial pressures of the Man? The Man has fooled us into believing that we need these pieces of crap. We pay for them at the counter and then in weight in our packs. I thought you were stronger than to allow the man to keep you down. Actually, I have to admit I do not know anyone that climbs in the US or Canada (at least that I climb with) that actually uses a filter. Have you had problems with iodine Allison? With chlorine? Curious to know.

Erik says: "you see someone making a big mistake call them on it...i expect people to call me on it too....like you said you will probably never see them again....." I agree with erik, but this is always a hard call...when do you say something? What is a "big" mistake? Small mistakes can have big consequences in the mountains. Good point erik, but a hard call. I think we are saying pretty much the same thing. I have shyed away from saying something in all but the most obvious situations. Not saying I am right, I will not be seen as one of those "mounties" that preach the right way. maybe I am selfish. PS I agree 100% with DRU's postion on the increase in accidents. I seriously think there is something to it. [ 06-07-2002, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

"At 2 lbs, 8 oz. and coupled with a Sil Shelter weighing in at 16 oz (combined weight 3lbs 8 ozs), it's lighter than most one man tents and works well in wet weather." Basically for 1/2 pound more, and a lot more money, you can have a bomber and comparativley roomy tent. 1.89 KG (4LB 2.5OZ) = Bibler I-tent.

My wife ran some numbers a while back that showed that K2 and Everest were very close if not the same in percentage of climbers dying that had summitted. If I recall correctly, the summit success to death ratio was the same on Everest as it was on K2. Agian that is the ratio, not raw numbers. Of course these were available numbers and I cannopt say the numbers she was working with were 100% accurate.

I agree that iodine tabs will go bad/loose effectiveness. I have HEARD that Marmots are another major carrier of Giardia...anybody know anything about this? Not sure if this is true. If true that would put giardia carries high the mountains with us. I do tend to believe that claims of Giardia are over stated. I have drank from many sources with no treatment and had no problems. Luck? Maybe. I almost never use waterfilers/purifiers, unless overseas (used them in Tanzania). I sometimes think the water filter industry pumps up the whole giardia problem to sell more filters. When using iodine tablets I have never had problems.

I would go with the 9mm x 60m. I use 50 meters presntly and would like to have the 60s. The extra rope is great and not much extra weight....especially on ice. Really on any alpine route it is great to have the extra rope. And rapping?...it rocks. You can put two shorter pitches together into one. etc. etc. As far as avalability of 9 mm x 50m ropes goes...mattp seems to think you may have a problem finding them.... "However, you may have difficulty finding 50 meter ropes unless you special order them" I see them all over. I seriously doubt they will be harder to find...could be wrong but I doubt it. Good luck

Snickers...they really satisfy you.

"At the risk of sounding pretentious I'd suggest that very few people any more have any real appreciation for any thing or, any one, besides themselves." Where or how did you arrive at this conclusion? What does this have to do with death in the mountains?

iain: Thanks for that perspective. Watching from an arm chair always raises questions that usually are easily answered, from one present. But too often the arm chair gives rise to unfounded positiona dnd beliefs. That is why I didn't want to directly challenge what was done, but simply ask the questions. Thanks for your input.

"I'll gladly pay to help keep our trails in good shape in so forth" This sentiment is disturbing to me. We all already pay when we pay our taxes. Why should users pay twice? Very few other types of departments are supported by such pay to play tax schemes....why is the Forest Service doing so? Should we just call them all National parks? No because then they couldn't log them.

Are they made by Stubai?

If they are by Stubai, as Drus says, then I believe I had a pair of these for two seasons some years ago. I sold them to Wopper's wife, commonly known as KILL. She still suses them. I got them at REI on sale for like $75.00 and they worked just fine. They were to standard step in type and they fit my Koflach Artis Exp. as well as a pair of leather Tenicas with no probelms. Took them to Mexico and Ecuador to do the volcanos with no problems. I cannot remember why I got rid of them...I think I wanted one with the new-matic or hybrid style binding system to fit a wider range of boots. Anyway, they are fine for a general mountaineering crampon and can usually be found at a fair price. No complaints from here and I have heard no complaints from KILL either. two pennies

Actually those are cool old crampons to put on the wall with the wooden ice axe...but I think they are just a little older than the Eiger Sanction movie. Lets call clint and see if they are really his.

I'm with caveman on this one... Though I will say that SOMETIMES rescues amount more to a chance tyo use all of the bright shiney new equipment than anything. What I am saying is that too often they use things / equipment and materials they doidn't really need to use...often risking lives and property when not needed. Of course it is hard to guage what is nended and it is better to bring extras and not need them than not bring enough. My bigest question on the Mt. Hood thing is: Why was the helo there at all? Why weren't the snowcat and snowmobiles up there? Couldn't they do the job with out the risk of a helo on thise slopes? Obviously I don't have all of the info...and I really hate second guessing the rescuers on the ground. I'm not saying it was wrong to bring the helo there...just asking why the snowmobiles and snow cat weren't used first?

Way to be heine....

Imagine the park rangers "screening" for things beyond diminished metal capacity. Such as "diminished equipment capacity" or in the case of plenty of gear but no ability..."enhanced gumby capacity." I can see the poor rangers now...no funding, little training, and somehow trying to decide who is a gumby, who is competant, etc. God that would be a nightmare.