max

I'm lookin' to do a little climbing in the BC mountains this season. Does anyone have suggestions on a good guide book for alpine rock routes? I've seen the SW BC Rock Climbs, but this seems to be focused on "crag" climbing. Any "alpine" alternatives? Also, I'd like to hear recommendations for 1-3 day trips in SW BC, again, focusing on rock routes. Note: Today is Friday and ya'll should have a big smile on your face. partial smile ear to ear grin

AlpineK pretty much said it all. I wouldn't move here w/o seriously considering the options. Lumpy and RMNP kick ass. Especially Lumpy. Bring lots of money 'cause shit ain't cheap. Also make sure to include a pair of sun glasses to google at girls in sun dresses through.

quote: Originally posted by Recriminator: That would be mitch the bitch better known as retro-ball-less KISS IT Uh, I think mitch has the biggest balls here. Have you ever seen his list of firsts? Know about the climb "Shrinking Balls Disease?"

If I were to choose a WA town to live in w/o considering climbing, I'd choose Republic or some other NE town. That part of the state seems to avoid ALL the crowds and it's very pretty.

As several have said above, the blue, yellow, orange, and red tcu are great in both application and operation. I'm not sure how small a .75 camalot is, but I know it's not as small as a yellow tcu. As far as doubling: in my expereince, the number of climbs out there that REQUIRE doubling on certain sizes isn't that great. Yeha, they're out there, but especially in the PNW it seems a well distributed rack does fine. But, I have doubles of the .5" to 1.5" and carry them along in my pack. If I get excited (to do a climb!) and need them, I can pull them out. Otherwise, they take a nap in the bottom of the sack. Sorta' like the #4 camalot. PS: I can't wait for spring!

I seem to remeber someone wanting the "This page comprised of..." touching the "UBB email this to a friend" thing and I just laughed at them. Oh, what visionary thinkers they were!

quote: All the mags are in Boulder and all the, "best," climbers live in Boulder. Why would we be interested in the opinion of people from some slug infested state like WA. Yeah, it's pretty bad how Clinging and R&I focus on CO stuff. Slugs. I love slugs. I think it most of the difference we've seen from these two companies reflect the age of the companies. OP is a much older (chronologically) and mature (strategy wise) company than spitter gear. So it shouldn't be much of a suprise that OP produces a much more eloquent and convincing reply than s.g. Also, I suspect most people are more motivated by performance than "silly ethical issues".

I'd agree with the two previous respondants. Intentionally missing that much sleep is not a good idea. I will say I value the experiences I've had of prolonged, intense physical work, but I also value having been snowbound with hypothermia victims on rainier. but that doesn't mean I'm going ot go back to rainier with the the idea of intentionally getting stuck and being in a seriously compromised position. Just because something is a valueable or memorable experience doesn't mean you should try to put yourself in that position. In my opinion, it's best just to wait and let these "situations" come about on their own. (Does this post show the signs of three nights of studying? It took about twice the usual time to compose!) I like the idea of first going w/o sleep in a "controled" environment, then deciding whether or not it's something you want to do intentionally.

I second the "neah" on Marley crags. They're just not worth the tromp. The only climb there I think deserves more than one star is the .9 finger crack in the upper left part of the crag. The rest...

I'm frickin' retardfed! This is a climb I suggested just a few days ago! My mermory is shot!All this talk of sweet cracks just hurts! It sounds like it's the same in WA as here: all snowy and shitty for climbing. Plus, being stuck behind a computer doesn't help the climbing itchies. Dang! I can't wait for some warm weather. It helps me to compile a mental tick list of climbs for when i get back in May. Yeah!!!!

quote: Originally posted by klar404: wholesome fullback at red rocks. 10-. Stellar. Where is this in red rocks? I recognize the name, but can't remeber climbing it... uh, like, I'm confused!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Them's strong words from a yuppy scum fuck bolt clipper!!!!!!!!! Boy, you should hear what I have to say after a double tall blonde half-soy skim latte!

quote: Originally posted by todd: right max - that must be the front range "tude" that erik mentioned - i was going to disagree with erik about those statements but you proved him right earlier in the thread. Damn. I just wrote a frickin' thesis on this topic and then did something stupid... time to re-write it. Shit! ok, I'm not sure what you're sayinghere. Between my inability to decifer what erik means and what you are saying about what he said... it confuses me. Mama always said I was a special child! What I was trying to get at in my original post is that you (brian) are mislead if you believe you will get rational, non-insulting responces to a question about splitter gear on this board, especially considering S.G's history here and the "rado attitude" I'll discuss below. As it would turn out, there are people here capable of a reasonable, adult conversation (Thank W!). But, I bet on average, Brian recieved a "nice" set of responces. No offense to Brian intended (even though I said he must be an idiot! woops.) About the "rado 'tude": I think some of the shit flung this way from cc.com is an indication of "WA nativism". Now I know there are people on cc.com that have experinced the boulder scene and have legitimate gripes. Often, I laugh at thier accurate slandering. But I suspect there are others who use the CO sterotype simply as a way of associating themselves with an identity, the identity of the hard-core WA trad climber. I base this belief primarily on the responces I've recieved from some cc.com'ers labeling me as a yuppy scum fuck bolt clipper (ok, that's a little strong, but the idea's still there). To you who'd use this sterotype as an ego boost: try climbing. It makes you feel good! dave

quote: Originally posted by todd:[qb][/qb] [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: max ]

I'm wondering if anyone has anything wise to say about the rock peaks in the Lemah/Chimney Rock area. I'm particularly interested in how early you went in, approach time, and general worth of these peaks. Also, I remeber reading an article in... ok, I admit it, Reader's Digest about a rescue of some msort on Chimney Rock. I know some of the players are present. Anyone know where that article is, online? Thanksdave

I've switch my entire rack over to quik-links. The only gripe I have is trying to use the wrench on overhanging mixed routes. I'm thinking about switching to the hammer-shut variety. Hardware Sales has blems on sale right now. Blowout discount cheapass sale [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: max ]

I had always thought (assumed) thermogenesis refered to a geologic process pertinant to Rainier. Obviously I could be wrong.

My thoughts on good rr routes: 1. Skip Crimson. Not only is it crowded... it just was a boring climb! (no stars) 2. There's some route left of wild turkey... a clssic 5.9 This is a good route. Rap after the crux "offwidth" pitch. ** 3. Lotta Balls. *** 4. A hike up icebox canyon is a good afternoon foray. 5. Fox. "It a ten" (according to wolfgang. More like 11-) 6. The wall with necromancer has three or four great routes all 5.7-5.9. If you do the second pitch of the leftmost climb, be prepped for a scary rap.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "wolfgang" Are you pseaking of "Wolf" of red rock fame? I met this old guy named wold in Red Rocks this spring. The guy that was droppping me off had met him that winter. I guess several people have run into this guy. He's famous for mooching food and camp spots, sandbaging climbs he wants s top rope on, and eyeing young girls. Anyone else climb with this guy?

Alex: what month is this picture from? HIgh/low snow year? thanksdave

Brian, I don't know you from Adam. But I can tell you must be retarded. You're a fool for starting this thread. I'm assuming you read the thread in it's entirety. "I had some disagreements about some of the comments on our cams..." and I'd even venture to say you've thought long and hard the last several months, forming positive responces to the most critical question. But I can't believe you read much else on this board. You will gain nothing positive from an open forum on you "revolutionary camming device". I wonder what you thought would be the end of this thred. "Hey Brian, thanks for the info! We were so wrong about your junk! We love it now! thanks for stopping by." However you thought this thread would end is wrong, unless you think it ends up with you storming away or just disappearing, and the crowd chearing for blood. You will be sacrificed, sacrificed to the God Spray, to a God of power. And bitter death it will be. Please consider this a message from a concerned friend. dave brannon

saws? det cord

A friend sent me this link for a page on interior AK ice climbing. Lots of i candy. AK ice

quote: Originally posted by gregm: if you are making a turn you need to yield to bicyclists in a cross-walk (burke-gilman) EVEN IF YOU HAVE A GREEN LIGHT. First, I'm a daily bike commuter so I definately agree with those out there calling for more bike friendly drivers. But I think what gregm has said might not be true. I *think* one has the right of way in a cross walk when walking. Technically, I think you're supposed to walk your bike on cross walks. So I have no idea where this intersection is (it very well could be a "bike crossing"), and I'm not even sure what I've said above is true. Anyone know for sure about this? Even if technically you're supposed to walk crosswalks, that's stupid and cars should yield. I think most drivers would rather have the bike on the sidewalk and yield when turning rather than the bike in the street and have to follow behind such a slow moving vehical. Have a nice day.

quote: I am truly in awe that they and their friends were apparently able to teach themselves all of the complex skills involved in climbing.... ...especially considering the intellect displayed in some posts! [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: max ]