max

quote: Originally posted by klar404: wholesome fullback at red rocks. 10-. Stellar. Where is this in red rocks? I recognize the name, but can't remeber climbing it... uh, like, I'm confused!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Them's strong words from a yuppy scum fuck bolt clipper!!!!!!!!! Boy, you should hear what I have to say after a double tall blonde half-soy skim latte!

quote: Originally posted by todd: right max - that must be the front range "tude" that erik mentioned - i was going to disagree with erik about those statements but you proved him right earlier in the thread. Damn. I just wrote a frickin' thesis on this topic and then did something stupid... time to re-write it. Shit! ok, I'm not sure what you're sayinghere. Between my inability to decifer what erik means and what you are saying about what he said... it confuses me. Mama always said I was a special child! What I was trying to get at in my original post is that you (brian) are mislead if you believe you will get rational, non-insulting responces to a question about splitter gear on this board, especially considering S.G's history here and the "rado attitude" I'll discuss below. As it would turn out, there are people here capable of a reasonable, adult conversation (Thank W!). But, I bet on average, Brian recieved a "nice" set of responces. No offense to Brian intended (even though I said he must be an idiot! woops.) About the "rado 'tude": I think some of the shit flung this way from cc.com is an indication of "WA nativism". Now I know there are people on cc.com that have experinced the boulder scene and have legitimate gripes. Often, I laugh at thier accurate slandering. But I suspect there are others who use the CO sterotype simply as a way of associating themselves with an identity, the identity of the hard-core WA trad climber. I base this belief primarily on the responces I've recieved from some cc.com'ers labeling me as a yuppy scum fuck bolt clipper (ok, that's a little strong, but the idea's still there). To you who'd use this sterotype as an ego boost: try climbing. It makes you feel good! dave

quote: Originally posted by todd:[qb][/qb] [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: max ]

I'm wondering if anyone has anything wise to say about the rock peaks in the Lemah/Chimney Rock area. I'm particularly interested in how early you went in, approach time, and general worth of these peaks. Also, I remeber reading an article in... ok, I admit it, Reader's Digest about a rescue of some msort on Chimney Rock. I know some of the players are present. Anyone know where that article is, online? Thanksdave

I've switch my entire rack over to quik-links. The only gripe I have is trying to use the wrench on overhanging mixed routes. I'm thinking about switching to the hammer-shut variety. Hardware Sales has blems on sale right now. Blowout discount cheapass sale [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: max ]

I had always thought (assumed) thermogenesis refered to a geologic process pertinant to Rainier. Obviously I could be wrong.

My thoughts on good rr routes: 1. Skip Crimson. Not only is it crowded... it just was a boring climb! (no stars) 2. There's some route left of wild turkey... a clssic 5.9 This is a good route. Rap after the crux "offwidth" pitch. ** 3. Lotta Balls. *** 4. A hike up icebox canyon is a good afternoon foray. 5. Fox. "It a ten" (according to wolfgang. More like 11-) 6. The wall with necromancer has three or four great routes all 5.7-5.9. If you do the second pitch of the leftmost climb, be prepped for a scary rap.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "wolfgang" Are you pseaking of "Wolf" of red rock fame? I met this old guy named wold in Red Rocks this spring. The guy that was droppping me off had met him that winter. I guess several people have run into this guy. He's famous for mooching food and camp spots, sandbaging climbs he wants s top rope on, and eyeing young girls. Anyone else climb with this guy?

Alex: what month is this picture from? HIgh/low snow year? thanksdave

Brian, I don't know you from Adam. But I can tell you must be retarded. You're a fool for starting this thread. I'm assuming you read the thread in it's entirety. "I had some disagreements about some of the comments on our cams..." and I'd even venture to say you've thought long and hard the last several months, forming positive responces to the most critical question. But I can't believe you read much else on this board. You will gain nothing positive from an open forum on you "revolutionary camming device". I wonder what you thought would be the end of this thred. "Hey Brian, thanks for the info! We were so wrong about your junk! We love it now! thanks for stopping by." However you thought this thread would end is wrong, unless you think it ends up with you storming away or just disappearing, and the crowd chearing for blood. You will be sacrificed, sacrificed to the God Spray, to a God of power. And bitter death it will be. Please consider this a message from a concerned friend. dave brannon

saws? det cord

A friend sent me this link for a page on interior AK ice climbing. Lots of i candy. AK ice

quote: Originally posted by gregm: if you are making a turn you need to yield to bicyclists in a cross-walk (burke-gilman) EVEN IF YOU HAVE A GREEN LIGHT. First, I'm a daily bike commuter so I definately agree with those out there calling for more bike friendly drivers. But I think what gregm has said might not be true. I *think* one has the right of way in a cross walk when walking. Technically, I think you're supposed to walk your bike on cross walks. So I have no idea where this intersection is (it very well could be a "bike crossing"), and I'm not even sure what I've said above is true. Anyone know for sure about this? Even if technically you're supposed to walk crosswalks, that's stupid and cars should yield. I think most drivers would rather have the bike on the sidewalk and yield when turning rather than the bike in the street and have to follow behind such a slow moving vehical. Have a nice day.

quote: I am truly in awe that they and their friends were apparently able to teach themselves all of the complex skills involved in climbing.... ...especially considering the intellect displayed in some posts! [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: max ]

Allison: check your pm's

First, I'll put my vote in for bi-color ropes. I consider it a safety issue. Anyways, to the question at hand: How to mark the middle of a rope. For dark ropes, the best way is to nick the sheath all the way around so the bright white core is exposed. It'll always be easy to see. Really, I think the best way to mark ropes is still with a small piece of cloth tape. I put the tape on while the ropes is weighted. This decreases the diameter of the rope, helping me get the tape on tight. This in turn minimizes the bump it makes when I'm feeding it through my device while belaying or rapping. I've stopped using the special pens out there for nylon products. In my experience, the pen fades and is very hard to pick out in a pile of rope. I'd much rather deal with a small bump from a piece of tape rather than the frustration of not being able to find the middle of the rope. Have a nice day. [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: max ]

quote: RRickerts: First of all, the climbing wall at the Y is for the kids and other budding climbers, not just for cheap hardcores who say they're going to volunteer so they can get some fair weather climbing in January then quit after two weeks. That's why the volunteers sometimes suck, because they're doing it for themselves. I don't think the generalization of hardcores skipping out after two weeks is entirely fair. Understand that there are people who do this, but that's only because they can. The wall is desperate for volunteers because no one wants to volunteer there for long. Getting to climb there for free is almost not enough compensation for dealing with the f***ed up system at the Y. quote: RRickerts: And if all you Bellingham critics want a real ripping lead wall (higher than the Seattle REI and as airy) realize that the funding is there to make it happen. Instead, spend your aggression down at the Up&Up pulling their thumbs out of their asses. Another classic example of what I was talking about above. When I started there almost four years ago, "the original" volunteers told me "yeah, they keep saying their going to build a bigger wall, but don't count on it>" I thought they were just grumpy. But the Y kept telling me "yeah, we're going to build a bigger wall, yeah, this fall (2000), this summer (2001)", and it never happened. Here are some other examples of what vollunteers have to put up with:-New carpeting? We were able to get some used stinky shit out of some other part of the Y that was getting remodeled. -Harnesses? The ones that were there when I left were so old and frayed many people couldn't even thread them through the buckles. -I showed a locking biner that didn't close all the way to one of the senior staff people. They just said to keep using it, even though it was obviously in need of retirement. -There is a huge iron, square cornered, radiator in the corner right by the wall. Someone bouldering or on a slightly loose belay could EASILY fall backwards and do some serious damage to their head. It was mentioned to ta senior staff person many times and they simply ignored the problem. They even refused to put up a sign warning people not to boulder there because they thought it would look bad. -Twice I showed up on special request to work a special Saturday birthday party, only to find out the group had canceled but the senior staff person had failed to inform me. A perfect day for climbing in Squam shot to shit! So that's why you might get a grumpy volunteer. That's why people skip out after a couple of weeks.

TriplePoint: I have a jacket made of the "2 layer" type triplepoint. I think Lowe calls it the triplepoint 1200? It's similar in feel to a two layer goretex. It sucks. Part of it is just the parachute-like design of the jacket, but part of it is the fabric. I've found the fabric to wick out easily when exposed to free moisture and I don't think it breathes very well either. Maybe if you're loking at gloves, they'd work better. The bottom line is that I always get wet when I wear it. That reminds me... For sale: TriplePoint 1200 Jacket. Works great. $40 OBO.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: It is my understanding t thanks.

I think for most people spelling errors are not that important. What I think most people find annoying is what I refer to as "drivel": poorly formed thoughts, incoherent logic, jargon to the point of incomprehension, and yes, intentional and frequent spelling errors. These examples of poor communication simply make it hard and time consuming to read and understand posts. Also, the drivel is much more annoying when coming from repeat offenders. If these garbage-like comments are found in spray, I couldn't care less. Spray is the "no rules" place where you get to disregard any level of respect for other people. But when the disrespect and drivel slops over into the general posts, it's not only annoying, but also makes the author look like a ignorant chump. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: max ]

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Al Bundy and Ned Flanders are simply not made to be in the wilderness. They are safer in thier cars... At first I thought you were talking about Ted Bundy. I was confused for a bit!

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: It's the upper part of a basalt flow. Ok, this is start. It seems there must be something more about an entablature ledge than just being at the top of the stack. Is it the different structure of the rock? There must be a more technical definition. (I'm not trying to be a wise-cracker here. Just curious.) dave brannon

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Let?s say you drove from Bremerton, Portland or BC - a few miles can easily change the viability of a weekend trip dramatically. First, the dude that drives from PDX is going to hike just as far as the local. Second, is it really environmentally sound to be driving hundreds of miles every other weekend just for some fun? That seems a little short sighted and selfish to me! Seems like we should be "recreating locally".

quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: I went to the "climbing wall" at the Y up there once, some "scene". There were these two retards there, Mick and Jason I think, that looked like they may have gone out of doors once, and all they did was spray. I'd agree with Charlie on this one. I went to the Y wall quite a bit when I lived there, and for how much it costs (nothing!), it's pretty frickin good! Yeah, sometimes you have to stomp on some little kids to do your traversing, and sometimes you have wear a respirator from all the funk-dust, but it's free. Ok, it's only free if you have a membership (pretty cheap) or volunteer (easy and makes girls think your a good dude. The bottom line is the place has a pretty good value.