rbw1966

Lila sucks.

Nor do I ever want to test one again. No, I put a screamer on it because I had planned on running it out to the top of the pitch. The ice itself at that point was pretty solid. Pure conjecture, but yeah, I think the screw held largely because of the screamers reduction of the force. But I am not a physics geek. All of it. 7.6mm twins Thats a question I am unlikely to ever know the answer to. My gut tells me one or two of the cuts were from the adze but some resulted from either impact with the wall or with the block that fell on me.

Bill, you need to get out more if you think Becks and Heinaken are 'good'

It was nice meeting you and Jesse, Paco. Nice TR!

Or getting hummers.

The waitress we had almost certainly had the cardio output of a marathoner judging from her lung size.

Chris, you are welcome to post the photos. I'd like you to email me a copy as well.

I have a black eye, a few stitches above my eye brow, a few on my eye lid and several on my chin. I assumed they were caused when my adze popped and I hit myself in the head. The cause of the fall is unknown to me;, at first it seemed that I pulled a block off and then fell but I am not certain. I also bruised my hand which is now swollen but I can still swing tools (we climbed in Lilloet on Sat & Sun). I don't think I made two placements horizontal to each other. Rather, I was coming over the bulge and topping out on a shelf when the accident happened. I remember the first tool dinner plating on the first swing, then the second sunk the pick all the way in. The second tool was a little higher than the first. All of this is based on my questionnable memory of what happened.

Let me preface this by saying I am deeply grateful to cj1001 for catching the fall, Winter, MtnHigh, Drew and Jeff for all keeping their heads and getting help and the Chilliwack SAR folks for going through all the tremendous effort to get me down the hill and to the hospital. I was leading Never a Bride and was about 70 feet off the deck when either a block detached or my tools popped--not exactly sure what happened. The last screw I had placed was about 15 feet below me so I took a ride. I remember looking down as I fell and then the next memory is looking up into one of the SAR guys faces as a helicopter hovered over heard. It took a while and a lot of work for those guys to get me down to the ambulance and again, I want to thank them for that. About 15 stitches and what seemed like a thousand x-rays later, I walked out of the ER a bit poorer and headed over to the Vault with a sweet shiner. I am a believer in screamers and helmets. I will post photos of both later this week. Again, thanks to all those who helped.

6) repeat

Let me know how that goes for you.

White Pass is about 3 hours from Portland. There was ice in the gorge as of yesterday but unprotectable.

Speaking of Country Dick, I saw the Beat Farmers way back in the day. About midway through the show, CD came out into the audience and sat down on the floor reading aloud from Penthouse Letters by cigarette lighter.

If I had a scanner I would post some pics I have from when it iced up around 1994. Pretty sick looking.

Putting lipstick on your hand does not equal a 'date'.

Barrel is closed and montana ice doesnt have any recent info on it concerning road conditions into Hyalite Canyon. Anyone know if you can drive all the way to the parking area? Thanks

She is one tweaked individual. A walking car crash and very fun to watch.

Son Volt

Because there is no one posting at Ascensionist.

No, he's Chilean.

Flock of Seagulls

Your response shows you don't have much experience with the Bionics, Dru. The metal on the front toe bail is pretty pliable. I'm not sure what its made out of but it feels and looks more like some kind of aluminum alloy. When I adjusted the bail forward and back it bent pretty easily.

The front bail can be bent pretty easily. Thats what I plan on doing. Do you see any problems with this?

Based on my limited amount of experience, I agree with the proponents of Sabretooths. The first new pair of crampons I bought were Sabers back in '94 and I've used them on everything from glacier slogs to WI4 at Hyalite. I never had a single problem with them aside from the occasional front point snag on my pants. Not once did they pop off my foot and on ice they always felt really stable and secure. Recently I scored a pretty good deal on a pair of Bionics that I used on a couple pitches in the Wallowas last weekend. I noticed that, unlike the sabres, the front toe bail on the Bionics does not fit snugly to my boot, causing the boot to shift latterally in the toe bail and on the front part of the crampon. Very unstable and very unnerving. I also noticed that the platform was not as secure and I had to kick harder and more often to get a decent placement. Whether this was a factor of my technique, gear limitations or ice conditions is not something I can judge clearly. Does forming the front bail more tightly around the boot ease that shifting problem? I may go back to my sabres and sell the bionics.

Potato Leek Smoked Salmon chowder Both are favorites of mine and have similar recipes